Size: child/small adult
Yarn: Wool Gatto (DK weight, 50gr/181yds) colour #9541 2 balls
Pattern: (taken from A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker)
Rows 1,3,5 (wrong side) - K2, P4, K2
Rows 2,4 - P2,K4,P2
Row 6 - P2, knit into 4th st on left-hand needle, then into 3rd st, then into 2nd st, then into 1st st, then slip all 4 sts from left to right needle together,P2
* * * * *
Cast on 144 sts. (I used the Channel Island cast-on from the stitch of the month archives)
Work in pattern for 7 1/4 ins (18.5 cm). I found I had 8 complete patterns.
Work rows 1, 2, 3 in pattern
Next row: *P2,K1,K2 tog,K1,P2* to end (117 sts)
Next row: *K2,P3,K2* to end
Next row: *P2, cable3,P2tog* to end (94 sts)
Next row: *K1,P3* to last 2 sts, K2
Next row: P2 *K1,K2tog,P1* to end (71 sts)
Next row: K1, then P2tog to last 2 sts, K2 (48 sts)
Next row: P2 , then K2tog to end (25 sts)
Next row: K1, then P2tog to end of row (13sts)
Break yarn leaving a long tail
Thread through remaining sts, and draw up. Fasten off. Sew up seam.
If you wish, add a pompom, tassel or i-cord decoration.
Have you ever wanted to know how to turn a heel and finish a toe on any number of cast on stitches? If you find yourself knitting socks without a pattern in front of you, the following heel and toe methods work for any size socks.
The formulas are included in this overview of how to knit a sock. If you just want the heel and toe formulas, scroll down to the yellow boxes.
If you are using a 4ply sock yarn (such as Regia, Fortissima, Opal, etc...), use 2.0mm - 2.5mm double pointed needles (set of 5). Cast on loosely the desired number of stitches and join into a round. Generally for women's socks 60 - 64 sts should work, and for men's 68 - 72 sts. However, you may need to cast on more or less depending on the foot size. As long as the number of stitches is divisible by 4, the heel and toe methods will work. Click for the Channel Island Cast on - a stretchy cast on method.
Cuff: Knit 2X2 ribbing (k2, p2) or 1X1 ribbing for approx. 2".
Leg: Knit stockinette stitch (knit every round) for desired length.
Heel flap: Knit half of your stitches onto 1 needle (the heel flap stitches) - so if you have 72 sts total, 36 stitches will be on one needle for the heel flap, and the other 36 will be left on the other needles to be worked on later (the instep stitches).
Work back and forth across the heel flap stitches using this stitch pattern - Row 1: sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1...across the row. Row 2: slip the first stitch and then purl across the row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have knit approximately the same number of rows as you have heel flap stitches (ie. if you are working across 36 heel stitches, do 36 rows). OR knit until you can fold the heel flap in half diagonally, and one side meets the other side.
Now you are ready to turn the heel! The following method can be used for any size sock.
Turning the heel:
ssk = slip, slip, knit 2 slipped sts together
Gusset: Knit half of the heel stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of the heel flap. Knit remaining heel stitches with needle 1, pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Knit across the instep stitches (needles 2 and 3). Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the other edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining stitches left from heel flap (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches. Knit one row.
*Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, k2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds of plain knitting. Repeat from * until 1/4 of the original number of stitches are left on each needle. For example, if you casted on 72 sts, you would stop decreasing when there are 18 sts on each needle.
Foot: Continue in plain knitting until foot is desired length, leaving about 2" for the toe decrease.
Now you are ready to decrease for the toe. Again, this method will work for any size sock! Plus, with this method you don't have to graft.
There are many ways to incorporate beads into our knitting and the following examples only show a few of them. At the end of this you will find references as to where to find out more about using them.
The first type I am going to show is prestrung beads worked into the knitted piece. If you are following a pattern, the approximate number of beads needed will be listed in the pattern. If you are just playing or making up your design as you go, a good rule of thumb to follow is to string more than you think you will need because once you start knitting it is hard to add more.
For stringing small beads (or any size for that matter) a great and inexpensive tool to have on hand is the dental floss threader. You can see one in the photo here being used to thread beads. They are available in the dental department of any drugstore
Once the beads are in place you either follow the instructions on your pattern (as for the beaded bracelet below - pattern by Lucy Neatby) or you knit a few rows to stabilize the work and begin adding beads as you wish, as in the cellphone holder project you see here. To knit a bead in place this way, you knit up to where you wish to insert a bead, slide a bead up next to the last stitch worked.
Once the next stitch is knitted, the bead becomes anchored on the horizontal bar between the stitches. It is important to note that the bead shows not on the side of the work you are knitting on but on the opposite, thus you always knit in the beads from the wrong side row.
Also the beads are only on that side of the fabric so this works well for a scarf or anything that you don't want beads on the wrong side of (i.e. against your skin, i-pod, cellphone etc.).
Lucy Neatby's Diamond Beaded Bracelet is a good pattern to learn a lot of the techniques you need to know for this type of beading, not to mention you end up with a pretty nice piece of jewellery! (Kits available at the shop)
Another method for adding beads that allows you to put them in wherever and whever it fancies you, is to thread them onto an individual stitch. Using a fine piece of wire, slip the stitch off the left hand needle, loop the wire through the top of the stitch loop, bring the 2 ends of the wire together and thread the bead onto the wire.
Slide the bead down the wire and right onto the stitch. You can now put aside the wire and put the stitch back onto the left needle (with the bead "choking" the throat of the stitch below the needle) and knit it as usual.
You will have a bead in place that shows on both sides of your piece of knitting.
A great place to buy beads locally is The Java Bead, located at 724 King St. Plaza in Bridgewater, NS. 902-543-9191. firstname.lastname@example.org
Two good references for finding out more about using beads are the Lucy Neatby Teaching DVD series (beading is covered in Gems#4) and the Knitter's Handbook.
The Mattress Stitch joins two knitted fabrics neatly together creating an invisible seam. Used for seaming vertical stockinette stitch row by row, this method is best suited for side and sleeve seams. The examples shown below demonstrate how to use the mattress stitch to sew together the side seam of a child's sweater (the "Avery" sweater by Bee's Knees Knits - pattern and yarn are available at the shop).
The first step is to block the knitted pieces so that the edges will not curl making the fabric easier to sew. To block, I soak my knitted pieces in lukewarm water with a small amount of Eucalan (a very mild wool soap) for about 10 minutes or so. After gently removing the excess water by rolling them in a towel, I lie the pieces on foam (use anything flat that you can stick pins into). Then I smooth the pieces out to the measurements specified in the pattern and pin the edges to secure. Once dry, the pieces will lie flat and are ready to sew.
Lay the blocked pieces side by side with the right sides facing you (below). The Mattress Stitch is done on the right side of the work making it easy to see where you are going.
First locate the edge stitches. They are usually rather uneven and appear to almost face sideways. The beauty of the mattress stitch is that it makes these unruly stitches disappear.
Next, locate the horizontal bar that runs in between the edge stitch and its neighbour. If you pull the edge stitch slightly away from the stitch next to it, you should see the bar running in between. To do the mattress stitch, you weave yarn under a bar from one side and then run it through the corresponding horizontal bar on the other side. This will be explained next.
Now the seaming begins! Take a blunt needle and thread it with your working yarn. You will need enough yarn to finish your seam. For demonstration purposes, I used a contrast colour so it would be easy to see. Insert your needle under a bar.
Next, insert the needle under the bar of the corresponding row on the other piece.
Continue working back and forth, inserting the needle under the bar on one piece, then the other, while trying to work matching rows (as close as you can). Don't worry about tightening up the yarn after each insert. I always work several rows first. Then just gently pull on the yarn and the pieces should join smoothly. Don't pull too tightly or it will pucker.
Sewing beautiful shoulder seams (invisible horizontal seams) does not have to be difficult! This technique is very easy to master. It can be used to join any two bound-off edges, and is worked stitch by stitch. Proper finishing techniques, such as creating seamless seams, will help you create garments that appear handmade, not homemade.
To sew seams, you will need a tapestry needle or a blunt needle. This will prevent you from splitting the yarn. For continuity, you should also try and use the same yarn you used to knit with.
With the right side facing you, place the bound-off edges together.
Working stitch by stitch, insert the yarn needle under a stitch (a "V") inside the bound-off edge of one side...
...and then under the corresponding stitch on the other side.
Pull the yarn gently, every 2 or 3 stitches, and be careful to maintain even tension.
The yarn used is Fleece Artist Blue Face DK. The finished sweater can be seen at the shop! --Karen Simmons
Perhaps more than ever at this time of year, we choose to give hand-made gifts to de-emphasize the over-the-top commercialism of a season in which many of us long to bolster a beleagured sense of spirituality. We try to de-clutter, yet still wish to retain a richness in our surroundings and to keep a strong sense of connection to those who give our lives meaning.
To this end, one of my Christmas projects is to make a knitted pillow. When I began, I didn't have a pattern at hand, but I was armed with the stitch I intended to use. I love stitches with their own names, and this one I thought was perfect for the season. I found it in The Harmony Guides book of 220 Aran Stitches and Pattern, Volume 5, and it is called Trinity Stitch. It says: "Trinity Stitch is thought to have been named because the pattern is formed by working three stitches from one and one stitch from three, signifying the Holy Trinity."
Trinity Stitch makes a joyous and ebullient pattern of diagonal bumps and would be wonderful and dressy for an evening bag, say in a metallic cotton viscose. The flatness of the wrong side would be an advantage in a table runner, for instance, out of a rich red or green Galway, or against the window as the dainty edging of a muslin curtain, in Fiddlesticks' lacy silk and wool. The flatness on one side has less bulk and lies closer to the surface; but the wrong side is still very beautiful to look at and doesn't have that "wrong-sided" look that patterns sometimes have. And when done on slightly larger needles than called for, the pattern looks great with the sun shining through it.
Naturally, you could keep going with the trinity stitch and make a beautiful scarf from one of the many new alpaca, silk or wool combinations from Fleece Artist, or others; but, on a more modest note, I have decided to make fancy dishcloths for the Christmas stockings out of Scala, a wool, cotton and linen yarn the store has on sale at 35% off the regular price. Customers often ask if you can knit dishcloths from other yarns than cotton - now is the time to experiment.
So, in case you think knitting is nearly a form of prayer or meditation, I recommend trinity stitch for a dozen applications.
(Happy Christmas!) --Shirlene Greer
Using 5 - 6mm needles and a heavy worsted weight yarn (I used Rio de la Plata which is equivalent to Manos del Uruguay), cast on 20 sts. Knit 2 rows. Next row knit 2 [increase knitwise into next stitch, k2] 6 times - 26 sts. Work stocking stitch (knit right side, purl wrong) for 7 cm. Next row: k2 [k2tog, k2] 6X - 20 sts. Cast off loosely.
Make a second identical piece. These are the "walls" of the cottage.
Top ("roof"): Using a worsted weight yarn and 4.5mm d.p. needles (sample uses Galway yarn) cast on 56 sts. Knit 1 row. Next row increase one stitch in every other stitch. Knit 1 row, purl 1 row. Next row K2tog every other stitch. This creates the "eaves" that overhang the walls of the house.
Now, to shape the roof, work in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. right side purl, wrong side knit): K5 (K2tog) to end - 48sts. Purl 1 row (purl 1 row between each shaping round). K4 (k2tog) - to end (40sts). K3, K2tog - to end (32 sts). K2, K2tog - to end (24). K1, K2tog - to end (16). K2tog - to end (8).
Thread yarn through stitches, pull up and sew in end on wrong side.
Join walls at top and bottoms only - to allow for spout and handle. Sew roof to top of walls - joining so that the eaves extend over the walls.
Chimney - using 4.5mm d.p. needles, with worsted weight yarn cast on 15 sts (5, 5, 5) and work in seed stitch (K1,p1) to desired length. Cast off. Sew to top of the roof. If you wish, use some roving to simulate smoke.
Using duplicate stitch, back stitch and french knots, embroider on details as you fancy for the front of the cozy. No two should be alike.!
- Heather Tunnah
Realizing that my stash of left over sock yarn had become too large to contain, and after attempting a few patchwork tube scarves, I realized I would have to become creative with new ways to get rid of this yarn! After discussing this with my daughter, she came up with the idea of making covers for her newly purchased iPod and cell phone! These are quick and easy to do and you don't need much yarn to make one! You can use many varieties of weights of yarn; just make sure you use the right size needle for the yarn. The pattern is based around the size of a razr but also fits many other cell phones. But it won't necessarily fit all phones, so you may have to knit a bit then figure out whether it is the appropriate size for your phone!
Cast on 32 stitches on 3 size 2.25 double pointed needles. In the round, knit 2, purl 2 for about ¼ to ½ an inch to make top ribbing. Then proceed to knit until the entire work measures 5 inches, or desired length. Bind off with the 3-needle bind off.
Alternatively, you could rib the entire sock. To make the iPod sock, cast on 42 stitches, and proceed with pattern.
Baby Cable Ribbing is a technique of twisting two stitches to make a mini cable. As seen in the sweater above, Baby Cable Ribbing can be used for an allover sweater stitch. It also can replace regular K2, P2 ribbing, therefore it is well suited to sleeve cuffs and trims.
Instructions for Baby Cable Ribbing
Source:A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker, p. 40. A variation of this stitch can also be found in Harmony Stitch Guide, Vol.2, p.73 - Twisted Cable.
Sweater Details (pattern and yarn available at shop)
2. Centre Panel is the Bamboo Stitch (Stitch Archive October 2005 *click*)
3. Reverse stockinette for sweater back and arms (Right Side - Purl;WS - Knit)
4. Garter stitch for neck (knit every row)
If you have some yarn and a head measurement, you can make a hat to fit that head perfectly! It's not hard at all...just some simple math and a knitted swatch.
Here we go: Knit a swatch with the yarn you wish to use (if you don't know it's stitches per inch), use the recommended needle size that is on the ball band (if you have no ball band, just make an educated guess and try until you find a knitted fabric that you are pleased with). Knit a square that's about 3 inches wide and 3 inches tall. Measure carefully in the inside of the square how many stitches there are in an inch. Now get the head measurement (in inches) and do the math! If your sample has 5 stitches in an inch and the head you want to fit is 20 inches around, you need 5 X 20 stitches, so 100 stitches on the same needle size that the swatch was knitted on. Simply put, you multiply the stitches per inch by the number of inches that the person's head measures and that is the number of the stitches to cast on.
To do a rolled brim as pictured here, work stockinette stitch for about 1/2 to 1 inch and then purl one round. After this, go back to all stockinette stitch. Work in this way for the desired length - guidelines as follows.
Newborn - 3 1/2 "
6 to 9 months - 4"
9 to 18 months - 4 1/2"
18 months to 4 years - 5"
4 years to small adult - 5 1/2 "
adult medium to large - 6" Then begin decreasing for the crown. Round your stitches off to the nearest multiple of 10. So, if you have 115sts, on the next round decrease 5 stitches evenly spaced on the round so that you have 110. If you had 118 sts, you could increase to 120 sts. Next round, *knit 8, k2tog*, repeat till you have completed one round. Work 2 plain rounds. *K7, k2tog*, repeat for round. Knit 2 rounds without decreasing. Continue in this fashion, knitting one stitch less before the k2tog and doing 2 plain rounds in between until you come to *K1, k2tog*. Do this round, then break the yarn and thread it in the remaining stitches, draw tight and sew in the end on the wrong side. Alternatively, you can do an i-cord embellisment or a pompom or a tassel to finish your hat off.
I-Cord: Using double pointed needles, cast on (or pick up) 3 or 4 sts. Knit these stitches, do not turn work. Slide stitches to opposite end of needle. Repeat this until cord is the desired length. (You can knit it as long as you like and then stitch it into place to make one like that in our sample). *Click to see the I-Cord featured on a previous stitch of the month.
****NOTE**** These instructions are written for knitting the hat on 12 or 16" circular needles, and/or double points, in other words in the round. Even if using circulars you will need the double points when you start the decreases.
Using worsted weight yarn and 4.5 mm needle, cast on 11-14 sts.
Knit one row, purl one row, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row (5 rows of stocking stitch ending with a knit row).
Next row, *knit 2 tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Next row purl, next row knit (3 rows). Next row knit twice in first stitch, knit to end of row, increase one stitch in the last stitch. Next 4 rows: Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row.*
These 8 rows make the pattern repeat, do this repeat 6 times and then knit one row, purl one row, knit one row. Cast off.
Sew cast on and cast off ends together. (The 5 rows of reverse stocking stitch are on the right side of the pumpkin, in other words the "bumps" of the 5 stocking stitch rows). Now using a length of your yarn and darning needle pass the needle through the bumps of the row ends on one end of your pumpkin. When you have gone all the way around draw the yarn tight (just like a draw string) to bring the top/bottom of the pumpking together. Stuff the pumpkin lightly with cotton, wool or whatever you have on hand and run the needle and yarn up through the center of the pumpkin and stuffing and gather the row ends of that end the same way. Draw them tight and also the yarn running from top to bottom of the pumpkin to give it some shape. Darn in this end when you like the shape you have.
Make a stem out of brown or green yarn. Cast on 4 sts on a double pointed needle and knit one row. Don't turn your work, just slide it back to the beginning of the needle and knit the 4 sts again. Repeat this until the stem is desired length and cast off. Sew this to the top of the pumpkin.
Variations. You can just knit a strip in garter stitch to what ever length you like, and sew it up the same way. The verical lines of the garter stitch make good pumpkin ridges. (Pumpkin on the left).
Use any weight yarn you have on hand and the appropriate needle size, you will get a larger or smaller pumpkin.
Embroider a Hallowe'en face on your pumpkin, knit a leaf for the top of the pumpkin, whatever you like. This is a chance to be creative. After all, no two pumpkins are alike and doesn't have to fit anyone!
It is amazing how such a simple stitch pattern can create such a beautiful fabric, particularily with hand dyed yarn. This lacy stitch resembles the look of chain link. The wrap pictured below was knit with Fleece Artist Country Kid. Any of the Fleece Artist hand dyed yarns would look beautiful in this stitch.
Stitch Pattern: (Multiple of 2 ) K1, *yo, k2tog*, repeat from * to * until last stitch, K1. Repeat row.
This is a very old pattern which I am sure many people will recognize and it is most handy to have in your pattern library. It works very well in a scarf, a throw or a sweater. Recently, I saw it in Interweave Knits magazine incorporated into a skirt and it was very effective. For this sample, I used 2ply kid silk (Fleece Artist) and the pattern is below. -Heather Tunnah
I-Cords are easy and fun to make. With two double pointed needles, a narrow tube is created by knitting across a row of stitches without turning the work. I-Cords have many uses such as bag handles, ties on hats, or decorative edges.
How to make an Applied I-cord:
In order to attach an I-Cord to the edge of a garment, work as follows. Cast on about 3 or 4 stitches on a double pointed needle (the I-Cord in the picture has 4 stitches). *Slide the stitches back to the beginning of the needle without turning the work. Knit all of the stitches in the row except for the last stitch. Slip the last stitch knitwise, YO (yarn over), then pick up and knit a stitch from the edge of the garment. Pass the slipped stitch and YO (2 stitches) over the last stitch. Repeat from *. Note: Some instructions do not include the YO, therefore just the slipped stitch is passed over the last stitch.
Looking for a quick knit project? Felted hats are easy and fun to make and are one of the most popular projects with our customers. The hats pictured require 100% wool(not superwash) and are felted with hot water and agitation. This creates a thick, shrunken fabric that is incredibly warm.
From right to left: Turquoise helmet - Fritidsgarn wool. Multi-coloured Bucket Hats - Noro Kureyon wool. Both the red and the brown Bucket Hats - Manos del Uruguay. The Rolled Brim hat - Galway wool. All yarns are available in a wide variety of colours, and the patterns are free with the yarn.
Noro Kureyon Felted Bucket Hat
Materials: Yarn - 2 balls of Noro Kureyon, or 200m of another worsted weight yarn (the red and the brown hats are made from Manos del Uruguay).
Needles - 5.5mm and 6mm 40cm circular and 6mm dp needles.
Cast on 110 stitches. Using double strand of yarn, knit 5 rounds in garter stitch (knit 1 round, purl 1 round)
Next round - *Knit 9, k2tog; repeat from * around (100sts)
[Purl 1 round, knit 1 round] twice, then purl 1 round.
Break off 1 strand of yarn and continue with one strand
Knit 5 rounds, purl 1 round.
Change to 6mm needles and knit every round until piece measures 5 1/2" from purl round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 2 rounds.
Crown Shaping - *Knit 8, k2tog; repeat from * around. (90sts)
Knit 2 rounds
Next round - Knit 4 * k2tog, knit 7; repeat from * around; knit remaining stitches. (80sts)
Knit 2 rounds
Next round - *Knit 6, k2tog; repeat from * around.
Knit 2 rounds.
Next round - Knit 3; *k2tog, knit 5; repeat from * around; knit remaining stitches.
Knit 1 round.
Next round - *Knit 4, k2tog; repeat from * around; knit remaining stitches.
Knit 1 round.
Next round - Knit 2, *k2tog, knit 3; repeat from * around; knit remaining stitches (40sts)
Knit 1 round.
Next round - *Knit 2, k2tog; repeat from * around (30sts).
Knit 1 round.
Next round - Knit 1, *k2tog, knit 1; repeat from * around; knit remaining stitches.
Knit 1 round.
Next round *k2tog; repeat from * around (10sts)
Cut yarn and weave through stitches.
Felt in machine on hottest cycle with a pair of jeans (to add extra agitation), adding a small amount of mild detergent. Check after one wash to see if the hat fits - it may be necessary to do it a second time (or even a third). Shape over a coffee can or some other suitable container and leave it dry.
Optional Felted Flower:
Using 1 strand of worsted weight yarn and 5mm needle, cast on 2 stitches. Increase at the beginning of every row until there are 11 stitches. Cut yarn. Make 3 more points, casting on 2 stitches for each point onto an empty needle and breaking yarn on all but the last point. Knit across all 4 points (44 sts). Next row - k2tog across, k1. Next row - k2tog across. Next row - k2tog across. Pass the last 4 sts over the 1st stitch. Fasten off and sew seam. Felt with hat. Sew to hat with single strand of yarn.
The Channel Island cast-on is very versatile because it is strong and elastic. It is the perfect cast-on method for socks because of its stretch. Its picot-like edge also makes it a very attractive option.
Here's how you do it:
1. You will need to start by measuring a length of yarn approximately twice as long as you will need for casting on. This length of yarn needs to be doubled, so fold the length of yarn over. The tail ends in the loop created by the fold, and the cut end of the yarn is at the beginning of the tail.
2. Now make a slip knot with both strands of yarn, approximately 6" from the cut end (Figure C). The tail, made up of the doubled yarn, is held by the left hand and the single yarn, from the ball, is in the right hand.
3. With the right hand, work a yarn over with the single yarn ( Figure D). Note: The yarn over will not be secure until you complete the next stitch.
4. While maintaining the yarn over with the right hand, take the tail (double yarn) in your left hand and wrap it counter-clockwise around your thumb, twice. Your hand should like Figure E.
5. With your right hand, insert your needle underneath both of the doubled strands of yarn that are around your thumb, as in Figure F. Notice the single strand of yarn of the previous yarn over is still held in front of the needle.
6. Now take the single strand of yarn in your right hand, and wrap it around the needle as if you were knitting the stitch (Figure G). Don't lose that yarn over! Pull tightly (Figure H). Now there are 2 stitches on the needle after the slip knot. The first is the yarn over, and the second is the knitted stitch you just made from the two double strands of yarn around the thumb
7. Repeat steps 3-6, creating yarn overs and knit stitches, until the desired number of stitches are on your needle (Figure I). The combination of the yarn overs and knitted double strands creates a lovely picot-like edge.
Note: If you happen to end on a yarn over, just tie this stitch into a temporary knot, and weave the ends securely into the fabric later.
Write something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview.