 BASIC SOCK PATTERN FOR FINGERING WEIGHT SOCK YARN - CHILDREN'S SIZES AS WORK SOCKS:
Gauge: Fingering weight sock yarn, 2.25 mm or 2.5mm d.p. needles = 7.5 st/inch Size: 3-5 (6.5-7,9-10,12-12.5, 2-3) Cuff: Cast on 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts. In white and do ribbing for 1-1.5”. On the Left, rib is K2 P2. On the Right, rib is K3 P1. For the work socks 3rounds of white, 3 rounds of red, 3 rounds of grey finish the 1.5” in white. Leg: Break yarn, join grey. Continue in ribbing to desired length – the samples are 4” from beginning. Heel: Break yarn, join white. Leaving 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (10&10 or 11&11 etc.) put remaining stitches 20(22, 24, 26,28) stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle. Regular heel stitch: Row 1: sl1,*k1,sl1* repeat from* across ending with k1 Row 2: sl1, purl across Work even in heel stitches for 10 (12, 14,16,18) rows Turn heel: Working in short rows over heel flap stitches: Row 1: sl1, k12 (14, 15, 16,18) ssk, turn Row 2: sl1, p6 (8, 8, 8, 10) p2tog., turn Row 3: sl1, k6 (8, 8, 8, 10) ssk, turn Repeat rows 2 and 3 until all stitches are used and there are 8 (10, 10, 10, 12) stitches on needle. Gusset: Continue in white, knit first 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches. Rounds now begin in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches with new needle (needle 1). Break yarn, join grey and pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work ribbing across instep (needles 2&3). Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches (needle 4). Needles 1 & 4 should have the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit 1 round. *Next Round: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3 in ribbing. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds in pattern ( knit stitch on needles 1 & 4, ribbing on needles 2 & 3). Repeat from* until there are 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches on each needle. 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches total. Foot: Continue in this manner until foot is desired length (allow approx 1 – 1.5” for toe decrease) - the samples are 2.75” from back of heel. The toe decrease is in plain knitting. Break yarn join white. Toe: Decrease round: Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1 Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end. Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1 Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end Knit 1 round plain. Alternate decreasing round with plain round until 8 stitches remain on needles (2 stitches on each needle). Graft stitches together to close toe. ****ssk: slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog.**** Pattern from Have a Yarn, Mahone Bay . NS B0J 2E0 902-624-0569 hello@haveayarn.ca -Anne Morison
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Since it is summer and I am in the garden so much of the time I thought that this was an appropriate name for this pattern. It is very easy to do, easy to remember and gives a reversible piece of knitting that has some interest, is not too dense or stiff and goes along fairly quickly.  Materials used: 50 gram skein of Elsebeth Lavold's Silky Wool (col # 71 , Fluorite Blue) 175m., 45% wool, 35% silk, 20% nylon. 4 mm needles. Sample knit is 47" long and 5" wide. Please note that ANY yarn can be used to make this scarf, alter the needle size and number of stitches accordingly. The pattern is a multiple of 4 plus 2 edge stitches at each side of the scarf (total of 4). Abbreviations: yo Yarn over (see note below) P2tog Purl 2 together NOTE: yo's (yarn over's) are done a little differently before a purl stitch. Take yarn back from work, between the 2 needles to the front, then down behind the right needle and back out between the 2 needles to the front of the rt needle again so that you can purl the next 2 sts together.  Cast on 32 sts and knit 2 rows. **For a lovely edge on the scarf, slip the first st of every row as if to knit, and purl the last st of every row.** Begin pattern: K2 (or slip as if to knit 1st stitch, knit 1) *k1, yo, p2tog, k1* repeat from * to last 2 sts, knit 2 (or knit 1 purl 1). Repeat this every row until most of the yarn is used up or you have the desired length, knit 2 rows, cast off. Block. (Wet in Eucalan & warm water, roll in towel to absorb extra moisture, lay flat to dry.) - Heather Tunnah  Most of us think socks are for those cold winter days but here is a way to enjoy your socks in the summer as well. Perfect for sneakers and sandals, these lightweight socklets are quick and easy to knit and fun to wear. A 50gr. ball of your favorite cotton blend is all it takes to knit these great little socks. We, here at Have a Yarn, are pleased to let you know that we have just received some fabulous new Cotton Stretch yarns ready for all your summer knitting needs.  By using one of your favorite sock patterns and a little change to the cuff and leg you can create wonderful summertime socks.
CO the required # of stitches and rib (K2, P2) for 12 rows. Then stocking stitch another 8 rows, more if you wish. Now you jump right into knitting the heel flap and proceeding as your pattern instructs you. After knitting the foot the desired length, toe off and weave in all ends. Nothing could be simpler. These wonderful socks are quick to knit and make great gifts for all your family and friends. Enjoy! - Karen Simmons  Here's a cap pattern that I've been using for years. It's based on an old World War II military pattern, but works just as well for civilians. It can be varied several ways, some of which are mentioned in brackets as you go along. In Briggs and Little 2 ply, it makes an adult-size hat. The grey cap was made with a slightly tapered crown, and the navy cap has a rounded crown. Pattern Materials: 100 g. ball worsted-weight wool, shown in Briggs and Little 2 ply 4.5 mm. double-point needles (and 4 mm. ones if you don't use circulars) 40 cm. or 60 cm. long 4mm. and 4.5 mm. circular needles (optional, but preferred) Tension: approx. 18 sts. per 10 cm. square Cast on 90 sts. on 4mm. circular needle (or double points). 1st round: *K1, P2. Repeat from * to end of round. (This rib is nice, but a K2P2 or other rib is good too). Repeat this round about 20 times (depending upon how wide you like the turnup). Next round: Knit plain (for a fold line, optional). Repeat 1st round 7 times more. Change to a 4.5 mm. circular needle (or double points). Knit every round until cap measures 6 inches from cast on edge. If you have been using circulars, rearrange sts. on 4.5 mm. double-point needles now or when convenient. 1st decrease round: *Knit 16, K2 tog. Repeat from * to end of round. Even rounds: Knit. 3rd round: (K 15, K2 tog.) to end of round. 5th round: (K 14, K 2 tog.) to end of round. 7th round: (K 13, K2 tog.) to end of round. Continue decreasing in this way, 1 st. fewer between decreases on each odd round while knitting the even rounds plain until 10-15 sts. remain.* This regular decreasing alternated with plain rows gives a slightly tapered crown. *(For a top that hugs the head more, omit the plain alternating rows after the K6, K2 tog. decrease round, until done). Break yarn, leaving enough length to gather up stitches with a large-eyed needle and secure on the inside of hat. - Shirlene Greer  Here at Have a Yarn, we love to knit socks. It's the kind of easy project you can always have on the go. The array of sock yarns available today make knitting socks quite addictive. Just step into our store and you will see that sock yarns are available in just about any colour you can imagine. But probably the biggest allure to knitting socks, is the feeling of handknit socks on your feet. There is nothing more comfortable. And there is nothing more heartbreaking than finding a hole in the toe or heel of a beloved well-worn pair.
Reinforcing Socks You can vastly imrove the lifespan of your socks if you reinforce the heels and toes. Just knit a reinforcing thread along with your sock yarn when you knit the heel and toe. Some brands of sock yarn provide little spools of matching reinforcing thread. One of these brands is Jowoll (available at the shop). Another very effective method is to use wooly nylon serger thread. This is an inexpensive stretchy thread used in sergers for sewing and is usually available at fabric stores. Joining 4 Needles in the Round Many people find it hard to not only cast onto 4 needles but also join the stitches without creating any twists. One simple way of doing this is to knit some of the ribbing flat (back and forth) for a cm or 2, then divide the stitches up onto the 4 needles. It is much easier to handle that way and you just use the end from casting on to sew up the little gap. For additional sock tips, click here for some heel and toe formulas, and here for the very stretchy Channel Island Cast-on. Before winter lets go it's grip on us, I thought I would like to share a great simple felted mitten pattern. The original was designed to use Fritidsgarn wool (50 g = 70m, 5.5mm needle gives a gauge of 3.75 sts/inch or 15 sts over 4 inches) used with a strand of kitten mohair (50 g = 165m, 19 sts over 4 inches on a 4 or 4.5 mm needle - *see grey mitten). However I have made a great pair out of yarns in my stash that combined wool and alpaca (*see brown mitten). Why not start ahead now for next Christmas ? They are quick to knit and really warm to wear.
Fritidsgarn and Kitten Mohair Felted Mittens 7 mm needles, double pointed 2 50 g skeins of Fritidsgarn 1 50 g skein of Kitten Mohair OR blend of wool and mohair or alpaca to give a gauge of 3 sts per inch (that you know will felt!) *NOTE hold both yarns together and knit using a double strand. Loosely cast on 24 (28) sts and arrange on 3 (or 4) double pointed needles. (You can use a safety pin or piece of yarn to mark your first round). Work in the round knitting every round for 2 ½ to 3 inches. Increase 2 sts 26 (30), knit 2 rounds. Begin thumb gusset: Knit across 12 (14) sts place marker, M1, k1, M1, place marker, knit to end of round. Knit one round. Next round, knit to marker, slip marker, M1, knit to next marker, M1, slip marker knit to end of round. Knit 1 round without increasing. Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 9 (11) sts between markers. Knit 4 more rounds. Thumb opening: Knit to 1st marker, remove it, put stitches between it and next marker on a holder (or piece of yarn) and remove next marker. Cast on 3 sts to bridge the gap left by gusset and knit to end of round. (28, 32 sts) Knit without further shaping for 4 (4.5–5) inches (measured from thumb opening) Begin decreases for top of mitt: Rnd 1: *K5 (6) k2tog* repeat from * to * to end of round Rnd 2: Knit Decrease 4 sts (working 1 less knit st between decreases) in this manner every other round until there remains 12 sts. K2tog all round, break yarn, using darning needle thread yarn through remaining sts and sew in on inside of mitt. Thumb Put gusset sts from holder on double pointed needle, pick up and knit 4 sts over gap and join. 13 (15) sts. Knit 1 round then decrease 1 st to 12 (14) sts. Note: when it is time to weave the loose ends you can close the gap that is at the base of the thumb. It will disappear after the mitten is felted. Knit for 2 ¾ inches and next round k2tog all round. Cut yarn, thread through sts and sew in end on inside of thumb. Felting Instructions: Wash in washing machine set on low water level, hot wash, cold rinse with a pair of jeans or something that will beat them around a lot. It may take 2 washes. Use soap or detergent. - Heather Tunnah  Have you ever finished a hat, a scarf, a bag or another knitted project and wish you could personalize it with a name, a saying or maybe a motif? Almost whatever you wish to add to your project can be accomplished with the Duplicate Stitch. The Duplicate Stitch is simply embroidering with wool. You are merely covering one stitch with a different colored wool. It is so easy and fun to do, you will be amazed at your finished project. Here's how it's done:  Step 1: Decide where you wish to start. Bring your tapestry needle with the yarn from the back to the front at the bottom of the ' V ' of the stitch you wish to cover.  Step 2: Now place your needle through the back of both strands of the stitch directly above the stitch you are covering. Gently pull your needle and wool all the way through but don't pull your yarn tight. Just let your yarn lay gently, but not too loose, on top of the stitch.  Step 3: You are now going to put your needle through the bottom 'V ' on the stitch you are covering, from front to back, in the same spot you started from, again letting the yarn lay gently on top of the stitch. You have now completed your first stitch and are ready to repeat these 3 steps until you have your project finished. Here are a few little tips to help you along:
1) If you don't have a pattern to go by you can simply make up your own by first laying it out on graph paper. Don't forget to include 'spaces' as well as letters when deciding how many stitches will be required. 2) I find it is much easier to start from the bottom and work up rather than starting at the top. Also your embroidery will look better if you choose a yarn that is a bit heavier (i.e. worsted) than the project that you are working on. 3) Do not pull your yarn tight over your stitch. Keep your tension gentle and even. 4) When going from one direction to another, try not to jump more that 3 stitches. Rather, cut your wool and start with a new piece and weave in a few extra ends so that your work will not pucker once completed. 5) And lastly, don't panic if you make a mistake. This stitch is easily removed if you must take it back. Just relax and enjoy! - Karen Simmons
Winter weather will be with us for a while yet, and if you haven't lost your winter wooly hat over the holidays, you may still be open to making an alternative to be prepared for such a disaster. Here is an easy pattern which is a perfect place to play. The examples showcase two worsted-weight yarn favourites, Cascade and Noro Kureyon, which give an average knitter 18 stitches in 4 inches, using a 4mm. 16 or 24 inch circular and 4mm. double points to close it in at the top. This hat requires 2-50 gram balls of Kureyon or 1-100 gram ball of Cascade, but could be made from other yarns giving a similar gauge. Like many simple hat patterns, the Purl Band Hat can be a jumping off point for incorporating little embellishments. The 1 and 1/2" knit band around the forehead, for example could be done in a decorative stitch pattern, embroidered, decorated with bobbles or worn with a little bling. The width and number of purl bands could be varied; and the top might be finished with an 1 cord, even fastened with a button or tassel. The Purl Band Hat Cast on 90 stitches and join into a round. Knit for 1 inch. Purl 1 round. Knit for 1 and 1/2 inches. Purl 1 round. Knit 3 rounds. Purl 3 rounds. Knit 3 rounds. Purl 1 round. Next round: Knit 15, M1 around. (96 sts in round) Knit 2 rounds. Purl 3 rounds. Next round: Knit 24, M1 around. (100 sts in round) Knit 3 rounds. Purl 1 round. Knit 3 rounds. Purl 3 rounds. Knit 2 rounds. Knit 8, knit 2 together around. (90 sts in round) Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round. Knit 7, knit 2 together around. (80 sts in round) Knit 1 round. Knit 6, knit 2 together around. (70 sts in round) Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round. Knit 5, knit 2 together around. (60 sts in round). Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round. Knit 4, knit 2 together around. (50 sts in round) Knit 1 round. Knit 3 , knit 2 together around. (40 sts in round) Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round. Knit 2, knit 2 together around. (30 sts in round) Knit 1, knit 2 together around. (20 sts in round) Knit 2 together around. (10 sts in round) Gather up remaining 10 sts into a circle with a sewing needle, take yarn to the wrong side and sew in to secure the end. - Shirlene Greer
 Easy Cozy Mitts - Youth and Adult Sizes (children sizes in pattern below) Materials: 1 skein Kitten Mohair, 135-150 m of DK (such as Smart Superwash), set of 4 DP 5mm needles Sizes: Youth, Adult NOTE: To increase - using your right needle, lift the strand of yarn lying horizontally between the stitches of the right and left hand needle, slip it onto the left needle and knit in the back of it. Cast on 24, (27) stitches 8,8,8; (9,9,9) Knit cuff 2 ½ inches Increase to 27 (30) stitches 9,9,9;(10,10,10) Knit one round. Begin increase for thumb: On 1st needle: knit 2, inc 1 stitch every 4th round to 12 (13) stitches. When total length measurement is 5 (5 1/2) inches, put 7 stitches from first needle on a holder for thumb as follows: Knit 2, put 7 stitches on holder, cast on 4, knit 3 (4) remaining. (9/10 stitches on needle again). Next round increase 1 st on ea needle 30 (33) sts total now, and continue on these 30 (33) stitches until mitt measures 8.5 to 9" (9.5 to 10) inches. Begin Decrease: *k1, k2tog* repeat from * for 1 round. Knit 2 rounds even. Knit 2 tog all round, Knit 1 round, break yarn, thread yarn through remaining stitches & sew up.ß Thumb: Pick up 7 sts from holder. Pick up 7 sts from opening edge. Knit 1 round. Decrease 2 sts to 12 sts total, divide 4 sts ea on 3 needles & knit to 2". Next round k2tog all round. Knit 1 round. Break yarn, thread through sts & sew off. Easy Cozy Mitts for Children Size 1-2, (2-4, 4-6, 6-8) Directions written for smallest size, other sizes in brackets) 5mm double point needles 1 skein Kitten mohair and one 50 gr skein of light worsted weight or dk yarn (approx 100 to 110 m) (mitts knit with both yarns held together) Gauge 4sts per inch NOTE: to increase: using your right needle, lift the strand of yarn lying horizontally between the stitches of the right and left hand needle, slip it onto the left needle and knit in the back of it. Cast on 15 (18, 21, 24) stitches, divide on 3 needles,5,5,5, (6,6,6; 7,7,7; 8,8,8) work 1 to 2 inches in stocking stitch.(i.e. knitting every round) (it is a good idea to put a yarn marker on the 1st needle to mark the beginning of the rounds.) Increase for hand: 2 sts per needle to21, (24, 27, 30) st Knit 2 more rounds Begin thumb increases: on 1st needle k1 m1 knit to end of the round. Knit 1 more round. Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 11 (12, 14, 15) sts on the 1st needle. Next round, knit 1, put 6 (6,7,7) sts on holder for thumb, cast on 2 (2,2,2 ) sts and knit the remaining 4(5,6,7) sts. Continue on these 21,(24, 27, 30) sts for a total length of 2, 2 ¼, 2 ½, 3 inches from thumb opening. Begin decreases for top of mitten: *k1 k2tog* repeat for 1 round. Knit 1 (1,2,2) rounds without decreasing, next round,*k2tog* all round. Break yarn, using a darning needle thread through remaining sts and sew in end on inside of mitt. Thumb: Pick up the 6(6,7,7) sts from holder, and 3(3,3,4) more from opening edge, divide these 9(9, 10, 11)sts evenly over 3 needles and and knit for 1 ½ (1 ¾, 1 ¾ , 2 ) inches. Knit 2 tog all round and break yarn, thread through sts and sew in on wrong side, sew in tail from thumb sts picked up, closing any hole which may be there at the same time. - Heather Tunnah   Materials: 2.5mm Set of double pointed needles, 1 50g balls of 4 ply sock yarn in any pattern (or plain). This sample is knit in Footloose. Stitch holders (small) Cast on 56 stitches; divide (12, 16, 12, 16)and work 2.5" in k2 p2 ribbing Increase to 60 sts and divide 15/15/15/15; work 2.5" in stocking stitch. Next round on needle 1 form thumb opening as follows: Slip 1st 11 sts on holder, cast on 11 sts to replace these and knit to end of round. Continue on these 60sts for a further 1 1\2" Then knit 1/2" in k2p2 rib. (total of 4 1/2" for hand plus 2 ½ for cuff). Cast off loosely. Thumb: Pick up 11 sts from holder and 11 sts from base of cast on sts and 1 extra st on each side. K even on these 24 sts for 1.0". Then knit 1/2 " in k2p2 rib and cast off loosely. - Freda Cormier   Yarn: Galway Paint 1 skein (100 grams)
Needles: 5.5mm With main color cast on 110 sts, place a marker and join. Knit 8.5” then place a marker after 55 sts. (You will now have two markers.) Decreasing: Row 1: K2tog, knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before marker k2 tog. This decreases 4 sts. Row 2: Knit. Continue decreasing in this manner until there are 26 sts left. Next row: *K2 tog, k1 Repeat from * to end. Bind off stitches and sew seam or do a three needle bind off. This tea cozy can also be made with leftover yarn. The striped ones are made of Galway and the purple and blue cozy is made of a combination of Galway yarn and Tove doubled. This pattern fits a four cup tea pot but can be modified to fit a smaller or larger pot. --Freda Cormier
These baby bootee slippers are a breeze to make. They are knit flat, then sewn up the middle of the sole and heel. It is a one size pattern, but you can vary the size by using different weight yarns. A bootee made out of DK weight yarn and 3.5mm needles will be approximately 4.5" long, but if you use a sock weight yarn and 2.5mm needles it will measure about 3.75" long. In the picture below you can see the difference in sizes. The large fits my 7 1/2 month old 20 lb. baby. The small is more of a newborn size - approx. 0 to 6 months. The blue and red slippers were made with a Fleece Artist DK weight yarn and features rolled cuffs. The beige slippers have a shorter cuff. I think they would also look great two-toned. For instance, you could choose a colour for the sole and cuff, and a complimentary colour for the top of the foot. If you were to do this, I would change colours after you knit 15 rows in step #8, and again when you start the ribbing for the cuff in step#19. WHAT YOU NEED:
 PATTERN:
*SSK = slip a stitch as if to knit, slip a stitch as if to knit, then knit both stitches together. - Rachel James (model is son Jack) These adorable knitted Easter Eggs are fun to make and a great way to use up leftover sock yarn!  You will need:
Abbreviations: M1 = make one (knit into the horizontal bar between the stitch just knit and the next one) Instructions: Cast on 9sts on double pointed needles (3 per needle) 1st round: knit 2nd round: k2, *m1, k1* repeat * to * 6 times and finish with k1: 15 sts 3rd round: knit 4th round: k2, *M1, k1* repeat * to * 12 times , finish with k1: 27 sts 5th ,6th & 7th round: knit 8th round: k3, *m1, k2* repeat from *to * 4 times, m1, k5, **m1, k2** repeat ** to ** 4 times, m1 k3 – 37 sts 9th to 18th round: knit all stitches 19th round: *k2, k2tog* repeat * to *, k last rem st = 28 sts 20th: knit 21st: *k1, k2tog*, repeat * to * knit last rem st =19 sts 22nd to 24th round: knit 25th: k1, then k all sts tog 2x2 =10 sts left 26th: knit all sts Cut yarn leaving enough yarn to thread through remaining 10 sts with a darning needle. Thread through but don’t pull tight until filling with stuffing, then sew up and make a loop hanger of extra yarn. You may also want to tighten up the end of the egg at the cast on edge.
All of us who love to knit socks are very familiar with the well known 'Slip Stitch Heel'. A great example of it can be found in our March, 2008 Stitch Archives. But have you tried the Eye of Partridge Heel? By just alternating the slip stitches on the right side of every row creates an interesting and most attractive lattice work heel flap. I find that the Eye of Partridge Heel is very sturdy, wears well but still has that extra 'give and stretch' allowing it to mould to the width and shape of almost any heel. The Eye of Partridge Heel is easy and fun to do so I think this style of heel is a 'must' for your next pair of socks, give it a try.
Pattern: Heel Flap Yarn: Your favorite sock yarn. I have chosen a solid color but this stitch is beautiful when done in a variegated yarn. Each stitch stands out and forms a very unique look. Needles: I like to use 2.25 mm needles. The smaller the size needles provides more durability. It also gives your socks a much nicer finished look. Stitches: The # of stitches is to your own desired width of heel flap but you 'must' use an even # of stitches. For example: 28, 30, 32 etc. Row 1: (right side) * SL 1, K 1*, repeat across, ending with K 1. Row 2: and all even rows: SL 1, purl across row. Row 3: SL 2, * K 1, SL 1,* repeat across row ending with K 2. Row 4: repeat Row 2. Repeat these 4 rows until your heel flap is the desired length, ending with the 4th row.
-- Karen Simmons
On these cold winter days, there is nothing better to keep you warm than a felted helmet! The felted fabric keeps out the wind and snow, yet it is amazingly soft and light to wear. It is easy and very fast to make as well.
Size: Adult (both men and women can wear this hat - the size is really determined by the amount you felt it)
Yarn: 2 balls Fritidsgarn (chunky weight 100% wool, 70m/50g, 15sts with 5.5mm needle) Needles: Short circular 6mm needles and 6mm double pointed needles Crochet Hook: 6mm Tension: 13 sts in st st / 10cm Increases: With the left ndl pick up the bar between 2 sts, from front to back. K into the back of the bar. PATTERN The hat is knit from the top down. So, with 6mm DP ndls cast on 10 sts. Then... Row 1: Knit row Row 2: *Knit 1, inc 1* ...repeat around (10 sts added = 20 sts total) Row 3: Knit row Row 4: *K2, inc 1*...repeat around (30sts) Row 5: Knit row Row 6: *K3, inc 1* ...repeat around (40 sts) Row 7: Knit 4 rows Row 8: *K4, inc 1* ...repeat around (50 sts) Row 9: Knit 4 rows. Row 10: *K5, inc 1* ...repeat around (60 sts) Row 11: Knit 4 rows Row 12: *K6, inc 1* ...repeat around (70 sts) Row 13: Knit 4 rows Row 14: *K7, inc 1* ...repeat around (80 sts)Now work 3 rows without inc. On the next row inc 4 sts evenly spaced around. Work without further inc until the hat from the last inc measures 18 cm. Next row: Cast off the first 7 sts, knit 21 sts (*this includes the st that remains on the right hand needle from casting off) = right ear flap. Cast of next 29 sts, K21 sts (see*) = left ear flap. Cast off remaining 6 sts = back. Left Ear Flap You will now be knitting back and forth. Start at the back and p 1 row. K1, k2tog, K 13, turn. Slip 1, p14, turn. K1, k2tog, k7, turn. Slip 1, p8, turn. K1, k2tog, k1, turn. Slip 1, p2, turn.Now work st st on all flap's sts, and at the same time dec 1 st at each side on all right side rows until 6 sts remain. Finish with a wrong side row. Cast off. Right Ear Flap: Work as left ear flap, but with turns and decs on wrong side rows. Finishing: Crochet 1 row of slip sts all around the edge of the hat. This will give it some structure. Weave in all loose ends on the inside of the hat, and cinch up the hole that was created by casting on at the top of the hat. Felting: Felt the hat in washer machine on hottest cycle with a pair of jeans (to add extra agitation), adding a small amount of mild detergent. Check after one wash to see if the hat fits - it may be necessary to do it a second time (or even a third). Expect the hat to come out looking a little wonky - in will need to be shaped and even stretched with your hands. The best way to do this is to stretch it onto your head. Let the hat air dry. I like to stuff the hat with grocery bags in order for it to maintain its shape. Keep warm! -- Rachel James At some point in knitting, you come to the end of a ball or skein and have to join in another ball. Also what can be annoying, you are in the middle of a row and see a knot approaching. Methods #1 and #2 are ideal for these situations. In the sample below, you can see three methods for joining yarn (the back or private side of the knitting)  In the next photograph you can see the right or public side of the knitting. Above the pins, are the two mid-row joins - no disturbance in the knitting line.  Method #1 (top of the sample) In the photographs below, you can see that I have unravelled the two ends of yarn for about 5cm., then twisted one each of the opposite plys together. I then knitted the “new” two-ply, beginning as close to the “waste” ply and finishing close to the other end of the splice, and continued knitting across the row. Then when you have blocked your knitting, clip the unused strands of yarn. This method is perfect for lace knitting.
Method #2 (middle of the sample) Here you take the end of your yarn you have been knitting, and the beginning of your new yarn, and knit one stitch with both yarns., and continue across the row. On the return row remember that the one stitch will have two loops - knit them as one. When you have knitted a few more rows, gently tug on the two strands and make one “disappear” behind the other.  Method #3 (bottom of the sample) This method is very basic. End one row with yarn you have been knitting. Begin with the new yarn on the next row.  I hope you find these descriptions and methods useful in your projects.
Anne Morison.  1 skein “River” Fleece Artist heavy worsted wt yarn (alpaca, silk, merino) 4 mm double point needles (set of 5) stitch markers Instructions are given for Lady’s med/large, men’s in brackets. If you want a smaller version, go down a needle size. Gauge: 4.5 to 5 sts per inch over stocking st on 4 mm needles Cast on 35 (41) stitches on double points Divide: 9,9,9,8 (10,10,10,11) Place a marker to mark beginning of rounds and knit 3 rounds. Purl 2 rounds then continue knitting every round until approx 4 ½ (5 ½ ) “ Next round decrease 1 st on ea needle 31 sts, (37) sts Knit a further 2 inches: 6 ½ (7 ½ ) inches from cast on. Next round increase 1 st per needle 35 (41) sts And knit 4 rounds (6 rounds) Begin thumb gusset: Knit 1, place marker, m1, knit2, m1, place a marker; knit to end of round. Work 2 rounds plain knitting. Repeat these 3 rounds (making 1 new stitch after the 1st marker and before the 2nd marker) until 14 sts between markers (16 sts between markers). Cast off the 14 (16) sts between markers and knit to end of round. Next round when you come to the cast off sts cast on 2 sts in this way: turn your work around (so that the wrong side is facing you) and use the cable cast on: insert right needle to the left of the 1st st on the needle and from this position knit a stitch and slip it to the left needle. Remove the right needle and repeat to give you 2 new sts. Now turn the work back the way it was and continue knitting until 2 to 3 inches long (from thumb opening). Purl 3 rounds and cast off. 
Thrummed Mittens (or fleece-stuffed mittens) originate from Newfoundland and Labrador. Twisted bits of unspun, carded fleece wool are knitted into the fabric to create a fleecy lining. With wear and use, the fleece inside felts into an insulating layer. Traditionally, they are knit of wool in natural colours. However, the pattern created by the thrums looks particularly striking when hand dyed fleece is used. TO MAKE THRUMS Preparing the fleece: Pull (do not cut!) lengths of fleece/roving about 5-6" in length. Separate the lengths into smaller strips. To determine the thickness of your thrum, twist the strip between your fingers - it should be at least the same thickness of the yarn you are using. Don't worry if the thrums are thicker - you'll just end up with warmer mittens!
Fold the ends of each piece to the center, overlapping the ends. Give the strips a little twist in the middle.
Now you are ready to incorporate the thrum. **TIPS** Make a stack of thrums ahead of time, so you don't have to prepare bits of fleece while you are knitting. Also, split your stock of fleece in half, so that you will have the same amount for each mitten. You don't want to run out of fleece while you are making the second mitten (which I've done!). INCORPORATING THE THRUMS When you come to a thrum stitch, drop the main yarn. Take a prepared piece of fleece, twist it a couple of times in the middle, and then hold it over your forefinger. Insert the right-hand needle into the stitch on your left-hand needle as if to knit, place the thrum over the end of the needle you just inserted, keeping the tails at the back.
Keep a firm hold on the thrum tails so that the fleece doesn't come undone. Now wrap the yarn over the needle too, locking the fleece in place. Knit both at the same time - this means you knit the stitch normally, bringing both your working yarn and thrum through.
On the next round, when you come to a thrummed stitch, the thrum and yarn stitch it was worked with will be sitting side by side. Knit the yarn stitch and thrum together through the back. Knitting through the back makes the thrum look like a V stitch. If you knit through the front, it will look like a round bobble. Give the tails of the thrums a gentle pull on inside of work. The thrums are now quite secure and locked in place by the yarn. When you are finished your mitten, you can always poke at the little V's with your needle to adjust them, if you need to.
THRUMMED MITTEN PATTERN
Makes 1 pair of Ladies small/medium size mitts. To make other sizes, I suggest pattern "Family Thrummed Mittens" by Briggs and Little. YARN: 100g/200m of worsted weight 100% wool. The mittens above were knit with 1 ball of Galway worsted wt. yarn (col#1330). FLEECE: 50 grams of carded fleece or roving. I used 50g (1 braid) of Fleece Artist hand dyed 100% Merino Sliver. NEEDLES: 3.5mm and 4mm double pointed needles. The 3.5mm needles are just for the cuff. NOTIONS: Stitch marker, stitch holder, and tapestry needle. Cuff: With 3.5mm needles, loosely cast on 40 sts and divide evenly onto 3 needles (i.e. needle 1 - 12 sts, needle 2 - 16 sts, needle 3 - 12 sts). Place marker and join into round without twisting the sts. Work K2, P2 ribbing (k2, p2, k2, p2,...) for approx. 3 inches. Once cuff is finished, proceed to Round 1. Hand: Round 1: Change to 4mm needles and knit entire round. Rnd 2: Begin inserting thrums on this round: *Knit 3 sts, Thrum 1 st, repeat from * across rnd. Rnd 3: K3. The next st will be the thrum st and the yarn st it was worked with. Knit into the back of both sts. Rnd 4, 5, 6: Knit. Rnd 7: K 1 st, *Thrum next st, k next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * across rnd. Rnd 8: Knit, making sure to knit into the back of the thrums. Rnd 9, 10, 11: Knit Repeat rnds 2 - 11 in this fashion for 3 inches.Thumb Opening: Knit 1, slip next 8 sts onto a stitch holder (or safety pin). Cast on 8 sts and knit to end of round. Knit until mitten covers the tip of your small finger (approx. 9.5" from beginning -- smaller mitts may need just 8.5", larger 10.5"). Shape Top: Keep thrum pattern going as long as possible. Note: when a k2tog falls on Rnd 3 or 8 (above) work your k2tog through the back loops to lock in the thrum stitch. Rnd 1: *K8, k2tog; rep from * around. Rnd 2: Knit Dec 4 sts (working 1 less knit st between decreases) in this manner every other rnd until there remain 20 sts. Dec 4 sts in this manner every rnd until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight and fasten to inside.Thumb: With RS facing, pick up the 8 sts from the holder onto a needle. Rejoin yarn, pick up 2 sts from side of thumb opening, pick up 8 sts along top of opening and 2 sts from opposite side - 20sts. Arrange sts evenly on your 3 needles. Work in thrum pattern until thumb is long enough (3-3.5" approx.) K2tog all the way around, for 2 rounds. Break yarn and thread through remaining sts. Fasten securely. Darn yarn at base of thumb, closing any holes. Darn in remaing ends. Second Mitten: Knit exactly as the first! -Rachel James  Size: child/small adult
Yarn: Wool Gatto (DK weight, 50gr/181yds) colour #9541 2 balls Needles: 5mm Pattern: (taken from A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by Barbara G. Walker) Rows 1,3,5 (wrong side) - K2, P4, K2 Rows 2,4 - P2,K4,P2 Row 6 - P2, knit into 4th st on left-hand needle, then into 3rd st, then into 2nd st, then into 1st st, then slip all 4 sts from left to right needle together,P2 * * * * * Cast on 144 sts. (I used the Channel Island cast-on from the stitch of the month archives) Work in pattern for 7 1/4 ins (18.5 cm). I found I had 8 complete patterns. Work rows 1, 2, 3 in pattern Next row: *P2,K1,K2 tog,K1,P2* to end (117 sts) Next row: *K2,P3,K2* to end Next row: *P2, cable3,P2tog* to end (94 sts) Next row: *K1,P3* to last 2 sts, K2 Next row: P2 *K1,K2tog,P1* to end (71 sts) Next row: K1, then P2tog to last 2 sts, K2 (48 sts) Next row: P2 , then K2tog to end (25 sts) Next row: K1, then P2tog to end of row (13sts) Break yarn leaving a long tail Thread through remaining sts, and draw up. Fasten off. Sew up seam. If you wish, add a pompom, tassel or i-cord decoration. Anne Morison Have you ever wanted to know how to turn a heel and finish a toe on any number of cast on stitches? If you find yourself knitting socks without a pattern in front of you, the following heel and toe methods work for any size socks. The formulas are included in this overview of how to knit a sock. If you just want the heel and toe formulas, scroll down to the yellow boxes. If you are using a 4ply sock yarn (such as Regia, Fortissima, Opal, etc...), use 2.0mm - 2.5mm double pointed needles (set of 5). Cast on loosely the desired number of stitches and join into a round. Generally for women's socks 60 - 64 sts should work, and for men's 68 - 72 sts. However, you may need to cast on more or less depending on the foot size. As long as the number of stitches is divisible by 4, the heel and toe methods will work. Click for the Channel Island Cast on - a stretchy cast on method. Cuff: Knit 2X2 ribbing (k2, p2) or 1X1 ribbing for approx. 2". Leg: Knit stockinette stitch (knit every round) for desired length. Heel flap: Knit half of your stitches onto 1 needle (the heel flap stitches) - so if you have 72 sts total, 36 stitches will be on one needle for the heel flap, and the other 36 will be left on the other needles to be worked on later (the instep stitches). Work back and forth across the heel flap stitches using this stitch pattern - Row 1: sl 1, k1, sl 1, k1...across the row. Row 2: slip the first stitch and then purl across the row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have knit approximately the same number of rows as you have heel flap stitches (ie. if you are working across 36 heel stitches, do 36 rows). OR knit until you can fold the heel flap in half diagonally, and one side meets the other side.
Now you are ready to turn the heel! The following method can be used for any size sock. Turning the heel:
ssk = slip, slip, knit 2 slipped sts together
Gusset: Knit half of the heel stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of the heel flap. Knit remaining heel stitches with needle 1, pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Knit across the instep stitches (needles 2 and 3). Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the other edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining stitches left from heel flap (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches. Knit one row.
*Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, k2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds of plain knitting. Repeat from * until 1/4 of the original number of stitches are left on each needle. For example, if you casted on 72 sts, you would stop decreasing when there are 18 sts on each needle. Foot: Continue in plain knitting until foot is desired length, leaving about 2" for the toe decrease. Now you are ready to decrease for the toe. Again, this method will work for any size sock! Plus, with this method you don't have to graft.
There are many ways to incorporate beads into our knitting and the following examples only show a few of them. At the end of this you will find references as to where to find out more about using them. The first type I am going to show is prestrung beads worked into the knitted piece. If you are following a pattern, the approximate number of beads needed will be listed in the pattern. If you are just playing or making up your design as you go, a good rule of thumb to follow is to string more than you think you will need because once you start knitting it is hard to add more. For stringing small beads (or any size for that matter) a great and inexpensive tool to have on hand is the dental floss threader. You can see one in the photo here being used to thread beads. They are available in the dental department of any drugstore  Once the beads are in place you either follow the instructions on your pattern (as for the beaded bracelet below - pattern by Lucy Neatby) or you knit a few rows to stabilize the work and begin adding beads as you wish, as in the cellphone holder project you see here. To knit a bead in place this way, you knit up to where you wish to insert a bead, slide a bead up next to the last stitch worked.  Once the next stitch is knitted, the bead becomes anchored on the horizontal bar between the stitches. It is important to note that the bead shows not on the side of the work you are knitting on but on the opposite, thus you always knit in the beads from the wrong side row.  Also the beads are only on that side of the fabric so this works well for a scarf or anything that you don't want beads on the wrong side of (i.e. against your skin, i-pod, cellphone etc.). Lucy Neatby's Diamond Beaded Bracelet is a good pattern to learn a lot of the techniques you need to know for this type of beading, not to mention you end up with a pretty nice piece of jewellery! (Kits available at the shop)  Another method for adding beads that allows you to put them in wherever and whever it fancies you, is to thread them onto an individual stitch. Using a fine piece of wire, slip the stitch off the left hand needle, loop the wire through the top of the stitch loop, bring the 2 ends of the wire together and thread the bead onto the wire.  Slide the bead down the wire and right onto the stitch. You can now put aside the wire and put the stitch back onto the left needle (with the bead "choking" the throat of the stitch below the needle) and knit it as usual.  You will have a bead in place that shows on both sides of your piece of knitting.  A great place to buy beads locally is The Java Bead, located at 724 King St. Plaza in Bridgewater, NS. 902-543-9191. thejavabead@ns.aliantzinc.ca
Two good references for finding out more about using beads are the Lucy Neatby Teaching DVD series (beading is covered in Gems#4) and the Knitter's Handbook. --Heather Tunnah The Mattress Stitch joins two knitted fabrics neatly together creating an invisible seam. Used for seaming vertical stockinette stitch row by row, this method is best suited for side and sleeve seams. The examples shown below demonstrate how to use the mattress stitch to sew together the side seam of a child's sweater (the "Avery" sweater by Bee's Knees Knits - pattern and yarn are available at the shop). The first step is to block the knitted pieces so that the edges will not curl making the fabric easier to sew. To block, I soak my knitted pieces in lukewarm water with a small amount of Eucalan (a very mild wool soap) for about 10 minutes or so. After gently removing the excess water by rolling them in a towel, I lie the pieces on foam (use anything flat that you can stick pins into). Then I smooth the pieces out to the measurements specified in the pattern and pin the edges to secure. Once dry, the pieces will lie flat and are ready to sew.
Lay the blocked pieces side by side with the right sides facing you (below). The Mattress Stitch is done on the right side of the work making it easy to see where you are going.  First locate the edge stitches. They are usually rather uneven and appear to almost face sideways. The beauty of the mattress stitch is that it makes these unruly stitches disappear.  Next, locate the horizontal bar that runs in between the edge stitch and its neighbour. If you pull the edge stitch slightly away from the stitch next to it, you should see the bar running in between. To do the mattress stitch, you weave yarn under a bar from one side and then run it through the corresponding horizontal bar on the other side. This will be explained next.  Now the seaming begins! Take a blunt needle and thread it with your working yarn. You will need enough yarn to finish your seam. For demonstration purposes, I used a contrast colour so it would be easy to see. Insert your needle under a bar.  Next, insert the needle under the bar of the corresponding row on the other piece.  Continue working back and forth, inserting the needle under the bar on one piece, then the other, while trying to work matching rows (as close as you can). Don't worry about tightening up the yarn after each insert. I always work several rows first. Then just gently pull on the yarn and the pieces should join smoothly. Don't pull too tightly or it will pucker.
--Rachel James
Sewing beautiful shoulder seams (invisible horizontal seams) does not have to be difficult! This technique is very easy to master. It can be used to join any two bound-off edges, and is worked stitch by stitch. Proper finishing techniques, such as creating seamless seams, will help you create garments that appear handmade, not homemade. To sew seams, you will need a tapestry needle or a blunt needle. This will prevent you from splitting the yarn. For continuity, you should also try and use the same yarn you used to knit with.  With the right side facing you, place the bound-off edges together.  Working stitch by stitch, insert the yarn needle under a stitch (a "V") inside the bound-off edge of one side...  ...and then under the corresponding stitch on the other side.  Pull the yarn gently, every 2 or 3 stitches, and be careful to maintain even tension.
The yarn used is Fleece Artist Blue Face DK. The finished sweater can be seen at the shop! --Karen Simmons  Perhaps more than ever at this time of year, we choose to give hand-made gifts to de-emphasize the over-the-top commercialism of a season in which many of us long to bolster a beleagured sense of spirituality. We try to de-clutter, yet still wish to retain a richness in our surroundings and to keep a strong sense of connection to those who give our lives meaning. To this end, one of my Christmas projects is to make a knitted pillow. When I began, I didn't have a pattern at hand, but I was armed with the stitch I intended to use. I love stitches with their own names, and this one I thought was perfect for the season. I found it in The Harmony Guides book of 220 Aran Stitches and Pattern, Volume 5, and it is called Trinity Stitch. It says: "Trinity Stitch is thought to have been named because the pattern is formed by working three stitches from one and one stitch from three, signifying the Holy Trinity."
Trinity Stitch makes a joyous and ebullient pattern of diagonal bumps and would be wonderful and dressy for an evening bag, say in a metallic cotton viscose. The flatness of the wrong side would be an advantage in a table runner, for instance, out of a rich red or green Galway, or against the window as the dainty edging of a muslin curtain, in Fiddlesticks' lacy silk and wool. The flatness on one side has less bulk and lies closer to the surface; but the wrong side is still very beautiful to look at and doesn't have that "wrong-sided" look that patterns sometimes have. And when done on slightly larger needles than called for, the pattern looks great with the sun shining through it.  Naturally, you could keep going with the trinity stitch and make a beautiful scarf from one of the many new alpaca, silk or wool combinations from Fleece Artist, or others; but, on a more modest note, I have decided to make fancy dishcloths for the Christmas stockings out of Scala, a wool, cotton and linen yarn the store has on sale at 35% off the regular price. Customers often ask if you can knit dishcloths from other yarns than cotton - now is the time to experiment. So, in case you think knitting is nearly a form of prayer or meditation, I recommend trinity stitch for a dozen applications.
(Happy Christmas!) --Shirlene Greer  (To fit small, 2 cup tea pot) Using 5 - 6mm needles and a heavy worsted weight yarn (I used Rio de la Plata which is equivalent to Manos del Uruguay), cast on 20 sts. Knit 2 rows. Next row knit 2 [increase knitwise into next stitch, k2] 6 times - 26 sts. Work stocking stitch (knit right side, purl wrong) for 7 cm. Next row: k2 [k2tog, k2] 6X - 20 sts. Cast off loosely.
Make a second identical piece. These are the "walls" of the cottage. Top ("roof"): Using a worsted weight yarn and 4.5mm d.p. needles (sample uses Galway yarn) cast on 56 sts. Knit 1 row. Next row increase one stitch in every other stitch. Knit 1 row, purl 1 row. Next row K2tog every other stitch. This creates the "eaves" that overhang the walls of the house. Now, to shape the roof, work in reverse stocking stitch (i.e. right side purl, wrong side knit): K5 (K2tog) to end - 48sts. Purl 1 row (purl 1 row between each shaping round). K4 (k2tog) - to end (40sts). K3, K2tog - to end (32 sts). K2, K2tog - to end (24). K1, K2tog - to end (16). K2tog - to end (8). Thread yarn through stitches, pull up and sew in end on wrong side. Join walls at top and bottoms only - to allow for spout and handle. Sew roof to top of walls - joining so that the eaves extend over the walls. Chimney - using 4.5mm d.p. needles, with worsted weight yarn cast on 15 sts (5, 5, 5) and work in seed stitch (K1,p1) to desired length. Cast off. Sew to top of the roof. If you wish, use some roving to simulate smoke. Using duplicate stitch, back stitch and french knots, embroider on details as you fancy for the front of the cozy. No two should be alike.! - Heather Tunnah |
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