MATERIALS: Galway Worsted Weight or Cascade, about 20 g.
NEEDLES: 5 mm. double points or to give approximate gauge
GAUGE: about 3 and 1/2 sts. per inch in garter stitch, unfelted
NON-FELTED SIZE: lower part: 6 3/4", lid: 3 3/4", width: 4"
FELTED SIZE: lower part: 4 1/2", lid: 2 1/2", width: 3"
(Pictured above: Cascade Cell Version & Fritidsgarn Cell Version)
Cell phones and cameras sometimes need a little protection to avoid scratches, moisture and dirt. These little pods or cases are a simple answer and can be custom-fitted to the device with a little care in the shrinking process. The fabric of the pod makes it easy to find when feeling around for it in your bag or pocket.
To make your Cell Pod, first we need to cast 28 stitches on one of the double-pointed needles.
Beginning at the bottom, we are going to knit a little bag, both sides at once, using 2 needles. To do this we knit both sides separately, but in one step, by alternating slip and knit stitches in the same row. If this sounds complicated, it isn't really, just repeat : *Knit 1, slip 1 (purl-wise),* to the end of the row which ends with a slip stitch. Turn your work and knit the next row in the same way. You will be knitting the slipped stitches and slipping the knit stitches and thus working both sides as you go up. Continue doing this for approximately 6 3/4 inches.
If you have slipped and knit faithfully in order, when you remove the needle and carefully separate the two layers you will have front and back of the bag. Working gingerly so as not to lose the live stitches, put 14 stitches on each of 2 needles above the front and back sides.
Front and Back Separated-14 stitches on each needle
Next, bind off the 14 stitches from what becomes the front edge of the pod. Knit to last of the stitches remaining and to make a neater join, if needed, knit 2 together with the next st. of the ones on the back needle.
Continue working along on the remaining 14 stitches to create the cover flap. Do this in stocking stitch instead of garter stitch. I made the knit side the outside. Work 3 3/4 inches and bind off. Sew in ends.
The finished item is felted in a hot water cycle in the washing machine, checked periodically until the correct size is achieved. More cycles may be required. Roll in a towel to remove excess water. Wrap phone in plastic wrap before trying for size. Pat into shape and air dry.
Needle-felt embellishments if desired. A snap, cord or button and loop closure can be added.
Fritidsgarn, single strand, using 20 sts. gives a slightly thicker variation.
CAMERA POD VARIATION
Use Fritidsgarn single strand (7mm. needles) or Galway or Cascade double-stranded (7 mm. needle) for a thicker and larger pod. About 35 g. of material are required. 24 stitches for the Fritisgarn and 24 for the Cascade or Galway doubled seems right. Unfelted dimensions are approximately: bottom: 7 1/4", lid: 4 1/4 " and width: about 4 ". Felted dimensions: bottom: 5" (Fritidsgarn) or 5 1/2" Galway, lid: 3" Fritidsgarn or Galway, width: 3 1/2" Fritidsgarn or 3" Galway. Slight variations in sizes are to be expected and are usually not critical. Just check shrinkage when felting and stretch slightly into shape, for width and especially around the opening, when wet, to allow entry of device.
Use in good health! Excellent Christmas stocking stuffer.
Even though winter is (with any luck!) a few months off, now is the time to start thinking about winter knits so we have time to enjoy wearing them in the cold months. So, put down the cotton, linen, and bamboo and pick up the cozy wool.
These are instructions to make a fairly chunky Reversible Cable Circle Scarf in Alfa. One of the unfortunate things about putting cables on a scarf is that it can give you a right and a wrong side which can be difficult to control while wearing as the scarf moves around. With this scarf, there is no right or wrong side. Feel free to use this as a literal pattern or simply as a guideline to inspire your own creations. Since gauge is not so important in scarves, use any yarn you like, just adjust the needle size and ensure the length is correct. The frequency of the cables is really up to you. I chose to do a simple repeat of three sets of cables close together followed by a long plain stretch - as many or as few as you like!
Yarn: 4 - 50 g balls of Alfa, sample is colour # 4853
C2F: Sl2 sts onto cable needle, hold in front; K2 from left-hand needle, knit 2 from cable needle
Using a provisional cast on (see May 2011 in Stitch Archives), CO 28 stitches. I used quite a heavy piece of scrap yarn because Alfa is very heavy.
Establish ribbing as follows:
Base Row 1: P2, K2, *P4, K4* repeat from * to * twice, P4, K2, P2
Base Row 2: K2, P2, *K4, P4* repeat from * to * twice, K4, P2, K2
Repeat these two rows 3 more times. Repeat Base Row 1 once more.
**Cable Row 1: K2, P2, *C2F, P4* repeat from * to * twice, C2F, P2, K2
Cable Row 2: P2, K2, *P4, C2F* repeat from * to * twice, P4, K2, P2
Starting with Base Row 2, work Base Row 2 and Base Row 1 twice.
Cable Row 1
Cable Row 2
Base Row 2 and Base Row 1, twice
Cable Row 1
Cable Row 2
Row 2 and Row 1, 8 times
Repeat from ** until scarf is close to desired length. Finish with three sets of cables, followed by 3 repeats of Base Rows 2 and 1.
Undo the crochet chain at the cast on edge to reveal the live stitches. Place stitches onto spare needle. Graft ends together to create a circle (see May 2011 in Stitch Archives), taking care to only twist if on purpose.
Undo the crochet chain at the cast on edge to reveal the live stitches. Place stitches onto spare needle. Graft ends together to create a circle (see May 2011 in Stitch Archives), taking care to only twist if on purpose.
The sample is 122 cm after blocking or enough to just fit around the neck twice. Thanks to the beautiful model, Julia Selig.
This is an alternative to your regular sock pattern; it adds a decorative cuff to the sock. I used a skein of Tanis sock weight yarn.
Cast on 63 stitches. (Multiple of 12 sts plus 3). Work pattern as follows for 3 inches.
Row 1 k1, k2tog, k4, yo:* k1,yo,k4,sl1-k2 tog-psso,k4,yo; rep from *, end k1,yo, k4 SKP, k1.
Row 2 and all even rows knit.
Row 3 k1,k2tog,k3,yok1, *k2,yo,k3,sl 1-k2tog-psso, k3, yo,k1; rep from *, end k2, yok3,SKP, k1.
Row 5 k1,k2tog,k2, yo k1,yo*sl 1- k2 tog-psso, yo, k1,yo,k2, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2, yo,k1,yo; rep from *, end sl 1-k2tog-psso,yo,k1,yo,k2 SKP,k1.
Row 7 k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2,yo *sl1-k2tog-psso,yo,k2,yo,k1,sl1-k2 tog-psso, k1,yo,k2,yo;rep from *, end sl1-k2 tog-psso,yo,k2,yo,k1,SKP,k1.
Row 9 k2,yo, SKP, k2tog, yo, k1,*k2, yo, SKP, k2tog, yo, k1, yo,SKP,k2tog,yo,k1,from *, end k2, yo,SKP, k2tog,yo,k2.
Row 10 knit.
At this point turn the sock leg inside out and continue. Work the leg until it measures the same length as the cuff.
Use your regular sock pattern to finish the sock.
The Foliage Lace pattern is from the Vogue daily calendar for 2010.
Scarves are made to be worn throughout the year and are very fashionable today. Here's a great little scarf that you can knit up in just a couple evenings. Quick, simple and easy, this scarf can be made for any season depending on the weight of yarn you choose. I have chosen Elsebeth Lavold's Silky Wool, a blend of wool, silk and nylon, a nice lightweight yarn for the summer. A DK or worsted weight would be ideal for the winter. With this pattern you will want to use needles at least one size larger than the recommended size for the yarn that you have chosen, I used a 5mm. If you are adding a fringe, I suggest you take the time to cut the fringes first so you won't run short at the end. The diagonal ends will form automatically once you have several inches knit.
Size: 5 1/2" wide, 5' long. without fringe
Fringes: 84 pieces, 10" long
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: K2, *yo, K2tog* across row. Knit the last st.
Repeat these 2 rows until you have your desired length.
Add your precut fringes to the ends of your scarf in sets of 3.
Trim the ends evenly and enjoy.
This pattern is a spin-off of the Montego Bay scarf and has been modified to a simpler format. - Karen Simmons
(includes instructions for provisional cast on & grafting)
Recently I had a request to make a cell phone cozy for a family member’s new iPhone. Of course I saw this as an opportunity for a stitch of the month project! And I know that 2 of the frequently asked questions at the store are about provisional cast ons and grafting, this pattern covers both. (I should mention that this is only one of the many provisional cast ons, it is the one I find the easiest to remember).
For the cozy I used a small amount of a 50 gram ball of sock yarn (fingering weight) –in this case Footloose in colour # 9- sun dance. The gauge is 8 sts/inch on 2.5 mm needles. (Or what you need to achieve this). It is knit in a tube starting with the provisional cast on, and then when finished, grafted together at the bottom, if you prefer you could always knit it in a flat piece and sew it together. It has a draw string top for quick access to open.
To begin: This provisional cast on starts with a crochet chain. We need to cast on 44 knitting sts so using a smooth fairly fine waste yarn, (cotton works well) make the crochet chain 50 or more stitches long. You will see on the crochet chain that it has, just like knitting, a knit and a purl side - the knit side being the flat stocking stitch and the purl the bumpy purl looking one. We are going to use the purl side and knit one stitch into each of those purl bumps. Leave a 10 to 12 inch tail of the yarn you are knitting with to use for grafting.
When you have the 44 knit sts picked up using the yarn for the cozy, leave the end you stopped crocheting with dangling a bit so you have easy access to it when you are ready to unravel it, because that is what you will do to expose the live stitches you started with. Now join the sts into the round with 3 or 4 needles and knit stocking stitch for 114 - 15 cm. Then do a row of eyelets for the drawstring: Knit 2, YO for all of this round. On the next round knit, knitting into the YO like any other stitch. Knit a further 1.5 to 2 cm and cast off loosely.
Now, carefully undo the crochet chain exposing the stitches that you cast on with. Put the stitches on 2 double pointed 2.5 or smaller needles, 22 on each. To graft, use the tail left from casting on and a blunt tip darning needle. Line the 2 rows of stitches up together.
1. Insert your darning needle purlwise trough the first stitch of the front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving that stitch on the knitting needle.
2. Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on knitting needle.
3. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
4. Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch an back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all stitches on both front and back needles have been grafted. Darn in end securely.
Now knit a 3 st I cord (see SOM archives March 2006) approx 35 cm long and thread it through the eyelets. Darn in all ends and you are done! --Heather Tunnah
Materials: 2 balls Galway wool - finished hat weighs about 105 (125) grams and measures approximately 18-20 inches in circumference (inside measurement) unextended.
Needles: 7 or 8 mm. 24" circular and 7 or 8 mm. double pointed
Note: Yarn is used double-stranded throughout.
With the circular needle, cast on 64 stitches, remembering to use 2 strands together. Make a circle with the needle and begin knitting. Placing a stitch marker at the beginning of the round and moving it along each round makes it easier to keep track of the rounds, especially when doing the crown decreases.
Knit for 10 inches. Green and navy examples are knit 10 inches. (A slightly larger hat or one with a wider brim can be made by knitting for 12 inches at this point instead of 10. Red example is knit 12 inches.)
Crown: Round 1: *knit 2 together, knit 6*, repeat to end of round (56 sts)
Round 2: knit
Round 3: *knit 2, knit 2 together,repeat around (42 sts)
(Change to double points when practical to do so.)
Round 4: knit
Round 5: *knit 2 together, knit l, repeat around (28 sts)
Round 6: knit
Round 7: knit 2 together around (14 sts)
Round 8: knit
Round 9: knit 2 together around (7 sts)
Round 10: knit
Round 11: knit 2 together to last st, knit 1 (4 sts)
At this point you may run the yarn through the stitches and end off, weaving in the yarn ends on the inside of the hat or make a topknot by placing the remaining 4 stitches on one needle and making an i-cord with 2 of the double points, sliding the stitches from one end of the double point to the other instead of turning the work at the end of each row. Knit in this way for about one inch, then knit two together twice on the next row and once on the following to end up with one stitch. Cut yarn and with a needle feed the thread to the inside and weave in the end.
Put the knitted hat into a hot water cycle in your washing machine with a little laundry soap and process, checking every few minutes until desired size is achieved.
Length of time, higher water temperature and more vigorous processing affect the amount of shrinkage. For the larger version, in the washing machine, check sooner and more frequently, if possible trying it on or measuring until desired circumference is achieved. (See red example.)
When correct size is achieved, squeeze suds out gently, rinse carefully and shape by rolling up brim to desired height. Air dry. (Hanging it on a suitably-sized jar, vase or inverted flower pot makes shaping easy, or try it on the recipient's head occasionally, if you can. to get the correct sizing and shape.)
When your hat is finished, you might try needle-felting a simple design on it. For some, that's when the real fun starts! --Shirlene Greer
MATERIALS: 6 mm needles, Galway yarn-one skein of navy, red and light blue (worsted weight). I only used about two skeins.
PATTERN: Cast on 165 stitches and knit 86 rows in garter stitch or 43 ridges. Cast off, sew the two sides together. Wash in hot water with a cold rinse to felt. This cover fit a 12” x 9” laptop. If you have a larger laptop add a few more stitches and an extra garter ridge or two and watch closely while felting.
This would also work well with a variety of leftover colors.
Christmas time had arrived and I found a very cute & funky orange tea pot which I wanted to give as a gift, but it needed dressing up. Knitting needles to the rescue and a ball of Fritidsgarn wool that just happened to be the perfect orange, and the mandarin orange cozy was born! Very fast and easy to do. The pattern is for a small (one to two cup) tea pot, about 4 to 4.5 inches high and the body about 4 to 4.5 inches wide.
The second cozy, I just had to do another, is crowned with a flower I for the top. This flower is one that I made up using left over hand dyed Fleece Artist sock yarn, the same leaf pattern as for the orange. Do a search on Ravelry, or most anywhere on the net, and you will have many flower patterns to choose from, if you aren't as adventurous as I was to knit one free form. Have fun and be creative!
1 50 gr skein Fritidgarn wool
1 pair 5mm needles
Small amounts of green yarn for leaves and accompanying appropriate needles, 3 double points (for ex. If you had a worsted wt yarn, you could use 4mm needles)
Darning needle, scissors etc
Using 5mm needles and Fritidsgarn, cast on 18 sts. Knit 2 rows
Increase row: Knit 3, *m1, k2* repeat from * to * until there are 3 sts left on your left needle, m1, knit 3. 25 sts.
Knit until there are a total of 12 garter st ridges and begin decreases on next row.
Knit 1, *K2tog k2* repeat from * to * until the last 4 sts, K2tog twice. 18 sts
Knit 2 rows.
Next row, *k4, k2tog* repeating from * to * to end of row.
Knit 2 rows.
Next row *k3, k2tog* repeating form * to * to end of row.
Knit 1 row
Next row: *k2, k2tog* repeating form * to * to end of row.
Knit 1 row
Next row: *k1, k2tog* repeating form * to * to end of row.
Knit 1 row.
Next row, k2tog across all sts, 3 remaining. Do not cast off, break yarn, leaving a tail and put sts on a holder or spare needle.
Knit another half exactly the same.
When the 2nd half is finished, thread one of the yarn tails through the sts on holder and needle and draw tight. Sew in end to inside of cozy. Use the other end to darn part way down the seam of the two sides to where the handle of the teapot would be. On the opposite side, sew up the seam to where the spout would be. Close the 2 bottom seams to where the bottom of the spout and handle are. Set aside.
This pattern for knitting a leaf is unique to me, I got it from www.ravelry.com by searching in patterns for leaves. Here it is:
Using green yarn and needles of the appropriate size, cast on 3 sts on one of the dpn’s and make an i-cord of about ¼ to ½ inch. When you’re at the last row, add 3 extra sts by using cable cast on – 6 sts
Divide these 6 sts on 2 needles, 3 on ea.
You will be knitting in the round but on only 2 needles. Sounds a bit odd, but it works!
Round 1: on first needle, k1, yo , k1, yo, k1 – repeat this for 2nd needle (5 sts on ea needle)
Round 2: knit all sts
I think everyone loves Snowmen. I know I do. As the Christmas season gets under way, my Snowman Family is the first thing I dig out. They make me smile to myself as I put them in my kitchen where I can always see them. I have no idea where the pattern for these cute little guys originated. It was passed down to me years ago by a dear friend. I think this pattern goes back many years and I have since made numerous sets for my own family and friends. Now I would like to pass it on to share with you. The pattern was given to me with the hope others would enjoy making them and sharing them with family and friends as well. The pattern goes like this:
Materials: About 4oz. worsted wt. white yarn
2oz. DK wt. red yarn
2 oz. DK wt. green yarn
6 styrofoam balls: 3" and 4" for large snowman
2.5" and 3" for medium snowman
2" and 2.5" for small snowman
A small amount of black and red felt
Two 4mm or 4.5mm straight needles
NOTE: Cut a flat bottom off the top ball and a small amount off the bottom of the bottom ball. Glue or toothpick the two balls together to secure them. Set aside.
MR. SMOWMAN: Using white yarn, CO 30sts for body. Work pattern as follows:
Rows 1 & 5: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Purl to last 3 sts., turn, knit back. (last step counts as row 4). This makes a dec. row.
Rows 6,7,8 : Purl
Repeat this pattern until there are 9 dec. sections that fit closely over the snowman's head and body. Cast off. Sew edges together and pull over the two styrofoam balls.
HAT: With red yarn CO 44sts. Work 5 rows of ribbing (K1, P1) then stocking stitch (K1 row, P 1 row) until piece measures 2.5".
Next row: K2 tog across row.
Next 3 rows: Stocking st.
Next row: K2tog across row
Gather sts. together with tapestry needle. Sew seam and weave in ends.
Add a pompom, if desired.
SCARF: With green yarn CO 50sts. Work 4 rows of Seed st. (K the P. P the K sts.). Cast off and add fringe, if desired.
MRS. SNOWMAN: With white yarn CO 22sts for body. Work pattern 8 times until there are 8 dec. sections. (On dec. row knit to last 2 sts., turn). Finish as Mr. Snowman.
HAT: With red yarn CO 34sts. Work 4 rows of ribbing, then stocking st. for 2", finish dec. and hat as Mr. Snowman's hat. Add pompom.
SCARF: With green yarn CO 40sts. Work 2 or 3 rows Seed st. Cast off. Add tassels.
BABY SNOWMAN: With white yarn CO 16sts. for body. Work pattern 6 times until there are 6 dec. sections. On turn row, work to last 2 sts., turn. Finish as Mr. Snowman.
HAT: With red yarn CO 27sts. Work 3 rows ribbing, then stocking st. for 1 3/4" Finish dec. and hat as Mr. Snowman's hat.
SCARF: With green yarn CO 35sts. Work 2 or 3 rows of Seed st. Cast off. Add tassels.
Add faces to snowmen with black and red felt and enjoy.
All of us at Have a Yarn wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy Knitting in 2011!
BASIC SOCK PATTERN FOR FINGERING WEIGHT SOCK YARN - CHILDREN'S SIZES AS WORK SOCKS:
Gauge: Fingering weight sock yarn, 2.25 mm or 2.5mm d.p. needles = 7.5 st/inch
Size: 3-5 (6.5-7,9-10,12-12.5, 2-3)
Cuff: Cast on 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts. In white and do ribbing for 1-1.5”. On the Left, rib is K2 P2.
On the Right, rib is K3 P1. For the work socks 3rounds of white, 3 rounds of red, 3 rounds of grey finish the 1.5” in white.
Leg: Break yarn, join grey. Continue in ribbing to desired length – the samples are 4” from beginning.
Heel: Break yarn, join white. Leaving 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (10&10 or 11&11 etc.) put remaining stitches 20(22, 24, 26,28) stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle.
Regular heel stitch:
Row 1: sl1,*k1,sl1* repeat from* across ending with k1
Row 2: sl1, purl across
Work even in heel stitches for 10 (12, 14,16,18) rows
Working in short rows over heel flap stitches:
Row 1: sl1, k12 (14, 15, 16,18) ssk, turn
Row 2: sl1, p6 (8, 8, 8, 10) p2tog., turn
Row 3: sl1, k6 (8, 8, 8, 10) ssk, turn
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until all stitches are used and there are 8 (10, 10, 10, 12) stitches on needle.
Gusset: Continue in white, knit first 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches. Rounds now begin in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches with new needle (needle 1). Break yarn, join grey and pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work ribbing across instep (needles 2&3). Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches (needle 4). Needles 1 & 4 should have the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit 1 round.
*Next Round: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3 in ribbing. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end.
Work 2 rounds in pattern ( knit stitch on needles 1 & 4, ribbing on needles 2 & 3). Repeat from* until there are 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches on each needle. 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches total.
Foot: Continue in this manner until foot is desired length (allow approx 1 – 1.5” for toe decrease) - the samples are 2.75” from back of heel. The toe decrease is in plain knitting. Break yarn join white.
Toe: Decrease round:
Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1
Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1
Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end
Knit 1 round plain.
Alternate decreasing round with plain round until 8 stitches remain on needles (2 stitches on each needle). Graft stitches together to close toe.
****ssk: slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog.****
Pattern from Have a Yarn, Mahone Bay . NS B0J 2E0 902-624-0569
Since it is summer and I am in the garden so much of the time I thought that this was an appropriate name for this pattern. It is very easy to do, easy to remember and gives a reversible piece of knitting that has some interest, is not too dense or stiff and goes along fairly quickly.
50 gram skein of Elsebeth Lavold's Silky Wool (col # 71 , Fluorite Blue) 175m., 45% wool, 35% silk, 20% nylon.
4 mm needles. Sample knit is 47" long and 5" wide.
Please note that ANY yarn can be used to make this scarf, alter the needle size and number of stitches accordingly. The pattern is a multiple of 4 plus 2 edge stitches at each side of the scarf (total of 4).
Abbreviations: yo Yarn over (see note below)
P2tog Purl 2 together
NOTE: yo's (yarn over's) are done a little differently before a purl stitch. Take yarn back from work, between the 2 needles to the front, then down behind the right needle and back out between the 2 needles to the front of the rt needle again so that you can purl the next 2 sts together.
Cast on 32 sts and knit 2 rows.
**For a lovely edge on the scarf, slip the first st of every row as if to knit, and purl the last st of every row.**
Begin pattern: K2 (or slip as if to knit 1st stitch, knit 1) *k1, yo, p2tog, k1* repeat from * to last 2 sts, knit 2 (or knit 1 purl 1).
Repeat this every row until most of the yarn is used up or you have the desired length, knit 2 rows, cast off. Block. (Wet in Eucalan & warm water, roll in towel to absorb extra moisture, lay flat to dry.) - Heather Tunnah
Most of us think socks are for those cold winter days but here is a way to enjoy your socks in the summer as well. Perfect for sneakers and sandals, these lightweight socklets are quick and easy to knit and fun to wear. A 50gr. ball of your favorite cotton blend is all it takes to knit these great little socks. We, here at Have a Yarn, are pleased to let you know that we have just received some fabulous new Cotton Stretch yarns ready for all your summer knitting needs.
By using one of your favorite sock patterns and a little change to the cuff and leg you can create wonderful summertime socks.
CO the required # of stitches and rib (K2, P2) for 12 rows. Then stocking stitch another 8 rows, more if you wish. Now you jump right into knitting the heel flap and proceeding as your pattern instructs you. After knitting the foot the desired length, toe off and weave in all ends. Nothing could be simpler. These wonderful socks are quick to knit and make great gifts for all your family and friends. Enjoy!
- Karen Simmons
Here's a cap pattern that I've been using for years. It's based on an old World War II military pattern, but works just as well for civilians. It can be varied several ways, some of which are mentioned in brackets as you go along. Using a typical heavy worsted weight yarn, it makes an adult-size hat. The grey cap was made with a slightly tapered crown, and the navy cap has a rounded crown.
100 g. ball worsted-weight wool, shown in Briggs and Little Heritage
4.5 mm. double-point needles (and 4 mm. ones if you don't use circulars)
40 cm. or 60 cm. long 4mm. and 4.5 mm. circular needles (optional, but preferred)
Tension: approx. 18 sts. per 10 cm. square
Cast on 90 sts. on 4mm. circular needle (or double points).
1st round: *K1, P2. Repeat from * to end of round. (This rib is nice, but a K2P2 or other rib is good too).
Repeat this round about 20 times (depending upon how wide you like the turnup).
Next round: Knit plain (for a fold line, optional).
Repeat 1st round 7 times more.
Change to a 4.5 mm. circular needle (or double points).
Knit every round until cap measures 6 inches from cast on edge.
If you have been using circulars, rearrange sts. on 4.5 mm. double-point needles now or when convenient.
1st decrease round: *Knit 16, K2 tog. Repeat from * to end of round.
Even rounds: Knit.
3rd round: (K 15, K2 tog.) to end of round.
5th round: (K 14, K 2 tog.) to end of round.
7th round: (K 13, K2 tog.) to end of round.
Continue decreasing in this way, 1 st. fewer between decreases on each odd round while knitting the even rounds plain until 10-15 sts. remain.*
This regular decreasing alternated with plain rows gives a slightly tapered crown.
*(For a top that hugs the head more, omit the plain alternating rows after the K6, K2 tog. decrease round, until done).
Break yarn, leaving enough length to gather up stitches with a large-eyed needle and secure on the inside of hat.
- Shirlene Greer
Here at Have a Yarn, we love to knit socks. It's the kind of easy project you can always have on the go. The array of sock yarns available today make knitting socks quite addictive. Just step into our store and you will see that sock yarns are available in just about any colour you can imagine. But probably the biggest allure to knitting socks, is the feeling of handknit socks on your feet. There is nothing more comfortable. And there is nothing more heartbreaking than finding a hole in the toe or heel of a beloved well-worn pair.
You can vastly imrove the lifespan of your socks if you reinforce the heels and toes. Just knit a reinforcing thread along with your sock yarn when you knit the heel and toe. Some brands of sock yarn provide little spools of matching reinforcing thread. One of these brands is Jowoll (available at the shop). Another very effective method is to use wooly nylon serger thread. This is an inexpensive stretchy thread used in sergers for sewing and is usually available at fabric stores.
Joining 4 Needles in the Round
Many people find it hard to not only cast onto 4 needles but also join the stitches without creating any twists. One simple way of doing this is to knit some of the ribbing flat (back and forth) for a cm or 2, then divide the stitches up onto the 4 needles. It is much easier to handle that way and you just use the end from casting on to sew up the little gap.
For additional sock tips, click here for some heel and toe formulas, and here for the very stretchy Channel Island Cast-on.
Before winter lets go it's grip on us, I thought I would like to share a great simple felted mitten pattern. The original was designed to use Fritidsgarn wool (50 g = 70m, 5.5mm needle gives a gauge of 3.75 sts/inch or 15 sts over 4 inches) used with a strand of kitten mohair (50 g = 165m, 19 sts over 4 inches on a 4 or 4.5 mm needle - *see grey mitten). However I have made a great pair out of yarns in my stash that combined wool and alpaca (*see brown mitten). Why not start ahead now for next Christmas ? They are quick to knit and really warm to wear.
Fritidsgarn and Kitten Mohair Felted Mittens
7 mm needles, double pointed
2 50 g skeins of Fritidsgarn
1 50 g skein of Kitten Mohair
OR blend of wool and mohair or alpaca to give a gauge of 3 sts per inch (that you know will felt!)
*NOTE hold both yarns together and knit using a double strand.
Loosely cast on 24 (28) sts and arrange on 3 (or 4) double pointed needles. (You can use a safety pin or piece of yarn to mark your first round). Work in the round knitting every round for 2 ½ to 3 inches.
Increase 2 sts 26 (30), knit 2 rounds.
Begin thumb gusset:
Knit across 12 (14) sts place marker, M1, k1, M1, place marker, knit to end of round.
Knit one round.
Next round, knit to marker, slip marker, M1, knit to next marker, M1, slip marker knit to end of round. Knit 1 round without increasing. Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 9 (11) sts between markers. Knit 4 more rounds.
Thumb opening: Knit to 1st marker, remove it, put stitches between it and next marker on a holder (or piece of yarn) and remove next marker. Cast on 3 sts to bridge the gap left by gusset and knit to end of round. (28, 32 sts)
Knit without further shaping for 4 (4.5–5) inches (measured from thumb opening)
Begin decreases for top of mitt:
Rnd 1: *K5 (6) k2tog* repeat from * to * to end of round
Rnd 2: Knit
Decrease 4 sts (working 1 less knit st between decreases) in this manner every other round until there remains 12 sts.
K2tog all round, break yarn, using darning needle thread yarn through remaining sts and sew in on inside of mitt.
Put gusset sts from holder on double pointed needle, pick up and knit 4 sts over gap and join. 13 (15) sts. Knit 1 round then decrease 1 st to 12 (14) sts. Note: when it is time to weave the loose ends you can close the gap that is at the base of the thumb. It will disappear after the mitten is felted.
Knit for 2 ¾ inches and next round k2tog all round. Cut yarn, thread through sts and sew in end on inside of thumb.
Wash in washing machine set on low water level, hot wash, cold rinse with a pair of jeans or something that will beat them around a lot. It may take 2 washes. Use soap or detergent.
- Heather Tunnah
Have you ever finished a hat, a scarf, a bag or another knitted project and wish you could personalize it with a name, a saying or maybe a motif? Almost whatever you wish to add to your project can be accomplished with the Duplicate Stitch. The Duplicate Stitch is simply embroidering with wool. You are merely covering one stitch with a different colored wool. It is so easy and fun to do, you will be amazed at your finished project. Here's how it's done:
Step 1: Decide where you wish to start. Bring your tapestry needle with the yarn from the back to the front at the bottom of the ' V ' of the stitch you wish to cover.
Step 2: Now place your needle through the back of both strands of the stitch directly above the stitch you are covering. Gently pull your needle and wool all the way through but don't pull your yarn tight. Just let your yarn lay gently, but not too loose, on top of the stitch.
Step 3: You are now going to put your needle through the bottom 'V ' on the stitch you are covering, from front to back, in the same spot you started from, again letting the yarn lay gently on top of the stitch.
You have now completed your first stitch and are ready to repeat these 3 steps until you have your project finished. Here are a few little tips to help you along:
1) If you don't have a pattern to go by you can simply make up your own by first laying it out on graph paper. Don't forget to include 'spaces' as well as letters when deciding how many stitches will be required.
2) I find it is much easier to start from the bottom and work up rather than starting at the top. Also your embroidery will look better if you choose a yarn that is a bit heavier (i.e. worsted) than the project that you are working on.
3) Do not pull your yarn tight over your stitch. Keep your tension gentle and even.
4) When going from one direction to another, try not to jump more that 3 stitches. Rather, cut your wool and start with a new piece and weave in a few extra ends so that your work will not pucker once completed.
5) And lastly, don't panic if you make a mistake. This stitch is easily removed if you must take it back. Just relax and enjoy!
- Karen Simmons
Winter weather will be with us for a while yet, and if you haven't lost your winter wooly hat over the holidays, you may still be open to making an alternative to be prepared for such a disaster.
Here is an easy pattern which is a perfect place to play. The examples showcase two worsted-weight yarn favourites, Cascade and Noro Kureyon, which give an average knitter 18 stitches in 4 inches, using a 4mm. 16 or 24 inch circular and 4mm. double points to close it in at the top.
This hat requires 2-50 gram balls of Kureyon or 1-100 gram ball of Cascade, but could be made from other yarns giving a similar gauge.
Like many simple hat patterns, the Purl Band Hat can be a jumping off point for incorporating little embellishments. The 1 and 1/2" knit band around the forehead, for example could be done in a decorative stitch pattern, embroidered, decorated with bobbles or worn with a little bling. The width and number of purl bands could be varied; and the top might be finished with an 1 cord, even fastened with a button or tassel.
The Purl Band Hat
Cast on 90 stitches and join into a round. Knit for 1 inch.
Purl 1 round. Knit for 1 and 1/2 inches. Purl 1 round.
Knit 3 rounds. Purl 3 rounds. Knit 3 rounds. Purl 1 round.
Next round: Knit 15, M1 around. (96 sts in round)
Knit 2 rounds. Purl 3 rounds.
Next round: Knit 24, M1 around. (100 sts in round)
Knit 3 rounds. Purl 1 round. Knit 3 rounds.
Purl 3 rounds. Knit 2 rounds.
Knit 8, knit 2 together around. (90 sts in round)
Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round.
Knit 7, knit 2 together around. (80 sts in round)
Knit 1 round. Knit 6, knit 2 together around. (70 sts in round)
Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round.
Knit 5, knit 2 together around. (60 sts in round).
Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round.
Knit 4, knit 2 together around. (50 sts in round)
Knit 1 round. Knit 3 , knit 2 together around. (40 sts in round)
Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round.
Knit 2, knit 2 together around. (30 sts in round)
Knit 1, knit 2 together around. (20 sts in round)
Knit 2 together around. (10 sts in round)
Gather up remaining 10 sts into a circle with a sewing needle, take yarn to the wrong side and sew in to secure the end.
- Shirlene Greer
Materials: 2.5mm Set of double pointed needles, 1 50g balls of 4 ply sock yarn in any pattern (or plain). This sample is knit in Footloose. Stitch holders (small)
Cast on 56 stitches; divide (12, 16, 12, 16)and work 2.5" in k2 p2 ribbing
Increase to 60 sts and divide 15/15/15/15; work 2.5" in stocking stitch.
Next round on needle 1 form thumb opening as follows: Slip 1st 11 sts on holder, cast on 11 sts to replace these and knit to end of round.
Continue on these 60sts for a further 1 1\2" Then knit 1/2" in k2p2 rib. (total of 4 1/2" for hand plus 2 ½ for cuff). Cast off loosely.
Thumb: Pick up 11 sts from holder and 11 sts from base of cast on sts and 1 extra st on each side. K even on these 24 sts for 1.0". Then knit 1/2 " in k2p2 rib and cast off loosely.
- Freda Cormier
Yarn: Galway Paint 1 skein (100 grams)
With main color cast on 110 sts, place a marker and join. Knit 8.5” then place a marker after 55 sts. (You will now have two markers.)
Row 1: K2tog, knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before marker k2 tog. This decreases 4 sts.
Row 2: Knit.
Continue decreasing in this manner until there are 26 sts left.
Next row: *K2 tog, k1 Repeat from * to end.
Bind off stitches and sew seam or do a three needle bind off.
This tea cozy can also be made with leftover yarn. The striped ones are made of Galway and the purple and blue cozy is made of a combination of Galway yarn and Tove doubled. This pattern fits a four cup tea pot but can be modified to fit a smaller or larger pot.
These baby bootee slippers are a breeze to make. They are knit flat, then sewn up the middle of the sole and heel. It is a one size pattern, but you can vary the size by using different weight yarns. A bootee made out of DK weight yarn and 3.5mm needles will be approximately 4.5" long, but if you use a sock weight yarn and 2.5mm needles it will measure about 3.75" long. In the picture below you can see the difference in sizes. The large fits my 7 1/2 month old 20 lb. baby. The small is more of a newborn size - approx. 0 to 6 months. The blue and red slippers were made with a Fleece Artist DK weight yarn and features rolled cuffs. The beige slippers have a shorter cuff. I think they would also look great two-toned. For instance, you could choose a colour for the sole and cuff, and a complimentary colour for the top of the foot. If you were to do this, I would change colours after you knit 15 rows in step #8, and again when you start the ribbing for the cuff in step#19.
WHAT YOU NEED:
*SSK = slip a stitch as if to knit, slip a stitch as if to knit, then knit both stitches together.
- Rachel James (model is son Jack)
These adorable knitted Easter Eggs are fun to make and a great way to use up leftover sock yarn!
You will need:
M1 = make one (knit into the horizontal bar between the stitch just knit and the next one)
Cast on 9sts on double pointed needles (3 per needle)
1st round: knit
2nd round: k2, *m1, k1* repeat * to * 6 times and finish with k1: 15 sts
3rd round: knit
4th round: k2, *M1, k1* repeat * to * 12 times , finish with k1: 27 sts
5th ,6th & 7th round: knit
8th round: k3, *m1, k2* repeat from *to * 4 times, m1, k5, **m1, k2** repeat ** to ** 4 times, m1 k3 – 37 sts
9th to 18th round: knit all stitches
19th round: *k2, k2tog* repeat * to *, k last rem st = 28 sts
21st: *k1, k2tog*, repeat * to * knit last rem st =19 sts
22nd to 24th round: knit
25th: k1, then k all sts tog 2x2 =10 sts left
26th: knit all sts
Cut yarn leaving enough yarn to thread through remaining 10 sts with a darning needle. Thread through but don’t pull tight until filling with stuffing, then sew up and make a loop hanger of extra yarn. You may also want to tighten up the end of the egg at the cast on edge.
All of us who love to knit socks are very familiar with the well known 'Slip Stitch Heel'. A great example of it can be found in our March, 2008 Stitch Archives. But have you tried the Eye of Partridge Heel? By just alternating the slip stitches on the right side of every row creates an interesting and most attractive lattice work heel flap. I find that the Eye of Partridge Heel is very sturdy, wears well but still has that extra 'give and stretch' allowing it to mould to the width and shape of almost any heel. The Eye of Partridge Heel is easy and fun to do so I think this style of heel is a 'must' for your next pair of socks, give it a try.
Pattern: Heel Flap
Yarn: Your favorite sock yarn. I have chosen a solid color but this stitch is beautiful when done in a variegated yarn. Each stitch stands out and forms a very unique look.
Needles: I like to use 2.25 mm needles. The smaller the size needles provides more durability. It also gives your socks a much nicer finished look.
Stitches: The # of stitches is to your own desired width of heel flap but you 'must' use an even # of stitches. For example: 28, 30, 32 etc.
Row 1: (right side) * SL 1, K 1*, repeat across, ending with K 1.
Row 2: and all even rows: SL 1, purl across row.
Row 3: SL 2, * K 1, SL 1,* repeat across row ending with K 2.
Row 4: repeat Row 2.
Repeat these 4 rows until your heel flap is the desired length, ending with the 4th row.
-- Karen Simmons
On these cold winter days, there is nothing better to keep you warm than a felted helmet! The felted fabric keeps out the wind and snow, yet it is amazingly soft and light to wear. It is easy and very fast to make as well.
Size: Adult (both men and women can wear this hat - the size is really determined by the amount you felt it)
Yarn: 2 balls Fritidsgarn (chunky weight 100% wool, 70m/50g, 15sts with 5.5mm needle)
Needles: Short circular 6mm needles and 6mm double pointed needles
Crochet Hook: 6mm
Tension: 13 sts in st st / 10cm
Increases: With the left ndl pick up the bar between 2 sts, from front to back. K into the back of the bar.
The hat is knit from the top down. So, with 6mm DP ndls cast on 10 sts. Then...
Row 1: Knit row
Row 2: *Knit 1, inc 1* ...repeat around (10 sts added = 20 sts total)
Row 3: Knit row
Row 4: *K2, inc 1*...repeat around (30sts)
Row 5: Knit row
Row 6: *K3, inc 1* ...repeat around (40 sts)
Row 7: Knit 4 rows
Row 8: *K4, inc 1* ...repeat around (50 sts)
Row 9: Knit 4 rows.
Row 10: *K5, inc 1* ...repeat around (60 sts)
Row 11: Knit 4 rows
Row 12: *K6, inc 1* ...repeat around (70 sts)
Row 13: Knit 4 rows
Row 14: *K7, inc 1* ...repeat around (80 sts)Now work 3 rows without inc.
On the next row inc 4 sts evenly spaced around. Work without further inc until the hat from the last inc measures 18 cm.
Next row: Cast off the first 7 sts, knit 21 sts (*this includes the st that remains on the right hand needle from casting off) = right ear flap. Cast of next 29 sts, K21 sts (see*) = left ear flap. Cast off remaining 6 sts = back.
Left Ear Flap
You will now be knitting back and forth.
Start at the back and p 1 row.
K1, k2tog, K 13, turn.
Slip 1, p14, turn.
K1, k2tog, k7, turn.
Slip 1, p8, turn.
K1, k2tog, k1, turn.
Slip 1, p2, turn.Now work st st on all flap's sts, and at the same time dec 1 st at each side on all right side rows until 6 sts remain. Finish with a wrong side row. Cast off.
Right Ear Flap: Work as left ear flap, but with turns and decs on wrong side rows.
Finishing: Crochet 1 row of slip sts all around the edge of the hat. This will give it some structure. Weave in all loose ends on the inside of the hat, and cinch up the hole that was created by casting on at the top of the hat.
Felting: Felt the hat in washer machine on hottest cycle with a pair of jeans (to add extra agitation), adding a small amount of mild detergent. Check after one wash to see if the hat fits - it may be necessary to do it a second time (or even a third). Expect the hat to come out looking a little wonky - in will need to be shaped and even stretched with your hands. The best way to do this is to stretch it onto your head. Let the hat air dry. I like to stuff the hat with grocery bags in order for it to maintain its shape.
Keep warm! -- Rachel James
At some point in knitting, you come to the end of a ball or skein and have to join in another ball. Also what can be annoying, you are in the middle of a row and see a knot approaching. Methods #1 and #2 are ideal for these situations.
In the sample below, you can see three methods for joining yarn (the back or private side of the knitting)
In the next photograph you can see the right or public side of the knitting. Above the pins, are the two mid-row joins - no disturbance in the knitting line.
Method #1 (top of the sample)
In the photographs below, you can see that I have unravelled the two ends of yarn for about 5cm., then twisted one each of the opposite plys together. I then knitted the “new” two-ply, beginning as close to the “waste” ply and finishing close to the other end of the splice, and continued knitting across the row. Then when you have blocked your knitting, clip the unused strands of yarn. This method is perfect for lace knitting.
Method #2 (middle of the sample)
Here you take the end of your yarn you have been knitting, and the beginning of your new yarn, and knit one stitch with both yarns., and continue across the row. On the return row remember that the one stitch will have two loops - knit them as one. When you have knitted a few more rows, gently tug on the two strands and make one “disappear” behind the other.
Method #3 (bottom of the sample)
This method is very basic. End one row with yarn you have been knitting. Begin with the new yarn on the next row.
I hope you find these descriptions and methods useful in your projects.
Thrummed Mittens (or fleece-stuffed mittens) originate from Newfoundland and Labrador. Twisted bits of unspun, carded fleece wool are knitted into the fabric to create a fleecy lining. With wear and use, the fleece inside felts into an insulating layer. Traditionally, they are knit of wool in natural colours. However, the pattern created by the thrums looks particularly striking when hand dyed fleece is used.
TO MAKE THRUMS
Preparing the fleece: Pull (do not cut!) lengths of fleece/roving about 5-6" in length. Separate the lengths into smaller strips. To determine the thickness of your thrum, twist the strip between your fingers - it should be at least the same thickness of the yarn you are using. Don't worry if the thrums are thicker - you'll just end up with warmer mittens!
Fold the ends of each piece to the center, overlapping the ends. Give the strips a little twist in the middle.
Now you are ready to incorporate the thrum.
**TIPS** Make a stack of thrums ahead of time, so you don't have to prepare bits of fleece while you are knitting. Also, split your stock of fleece in half, so that you will have the same amount for each mitten. You don't want to run out of fleece while you are making the second mitten (which I've done!).
INCORPORATING THE THRUMS
When you come to a thrum stitch, drop the main yarn. Take a prepared piece of fleece, twist it a couple of times in the middle, and then hold it over your forefinger. Insert the right-hand needle into the stitch on your left-hand needle as if to knit, place the thrum over the end of the needle you just inserted, keeping the tails at the back.
Keep a firm hold on the thrum tails so that the fleece doesn't come undone. Now wrap the yarn over the needle too, locking the fleece in place. Knit both at the same time - this means you knit the stitch normally, bringing both your working yarn and thrum through.
On the next round, when you come to a thrummed stitch, the thrum and yarn stitch it was worked with will be sitting side by side. Knit the yarn stitch and thrum together through the back. Knitting through the back makes the thrum look like a V stitch. If you knit through the front, it will look like a round bobble. Give the tails of the thrums a gentle pull on inside of work. The thrums are now quite secure and locked in place by the yarn. When you are finished your mitten, you can always poke at the little V's with your needle to adjust them, if you need to.
THRUMMED MITTEN PATTERN
Makes 1 pair of Ladies small/medium size mitts. To make other sizes, I suggest pattern "Family Thrummed Mittens" by Briggs and Little.
YARN: 100g/200m of worsted weight 100% wool. The mittens above were knit with 1 ball of Galway worsted wt. yarn (col#1330).
FLEECE: 50 grams of carded fleece or roving. I used 50g (1 braid) of Fleece Artist hand dyed 100% Merino Sliver.
NEEDLES: 3.5mm and 4mm double pointed needles. The 3.5mm needles are just for the cuff.
NOTIONS: Stitch marker, stitch holder, and tapestry needle.
Cuff: With 3.5mm needles, loosely cast on 40 sts and divide evenly onto 3 needles (i.e. needle 1 - 12 sts, needle 2 - 16 sts, needle 3 - 12 sts). Place marker and join into round without twisting the sts. Work K2, P2 ribbing (k2, p2, k2, p2,...) for approx. 3 inches. Once cuff is finished, proceed to Round 1.
Round 1: Change to 4mm needles and knit entire round.
Rnd 2: Begin inserting thrums on this round: *Knit 3 sts, Thrum 1 st, repeat from * across rnd.
Rnd 3: K3. The next st will be the thrum st and the yarn st it was worked with. Knit into the back of both sts.
Rnd 4, 5, 6: Knit.
Rnd 7: K 1 st, *Thrum next st, k next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * across rnd.
Rnd 8: Knit, making sure to knit into the back of the thrums.
Rnd 9, 10, 11: Knit
Repeat rnds 2 - 11 in this fashion for 3 inches.Thumb Opening: Knit 1, slip next 8 sts onto a stitch holder (or safety pin). Cast on 8 sts and knit to end of round. Knit until mitten covers the tip of your small finger (approx. 9.5" from beginning -- smaller mitts may need just 8.5", larger 10.5").
Shape Top: Keep thrum pattern going as long as possible. Note: when a k2tog falls on Rnd 3 or 8 (above) work your k2tog through the back loops to lock in the thrum stitch.
Rnd 1: *K8, k2tog; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: Knit
Dec 4 sts (working 1 less knit st between decreases) in this manner every other rnd until there remain 20 sts.
Dec 4 sts in this manner every rnd until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight and fasten to inside.Thumb: With RS facing, pick up the 8 sts from the holder onto a needle. Rejoin yarn, pick up 2 sts from side of thumb opening, pick up 8 sts along top of opening and 2 sts from opposite side - 20sts. Arrange sts evenly on your 3 needles. Work in thrum pattern until thumb is long enough (3-3.5" approx.) K2tog all the way around, for 2 rounds. Break yarn and thread through remaining sts. Fasten securely. Darn yarn at base of thumb, closing any holes. Darn in remaing ends.
Second Mitten: Knit exactly as the first!
Write something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview.