Felted hats are one of the best ways to ensure a warm head and ears in the cold months. Felted items completely block the wind and wool is a sure way to stay dry. It’s no surprise that this felted hat pattern has become one of our most popular. Since the hat is knit entirely with a double stand, one can mix colours to make a heathered look or stick with the same colour for a classic solid colour. The main body of the pattern is for the standard turned up brim. The first variation is for the wider turned up brim and the second is for the toque version.
Materials: 2 skeins of Galway or equivalent 100% wool, worsted weight
8 mm circular needles, 24” (60cm) works best
stitch marker
Double pointed set of 4 or 5 8 mm needles
+*#?! Please note: Knit entire hat using double strand of yarn!*+#?!
Begin:
With a double stand of yarn, cast on 100 stitches loosely on circulars.
Join and place a marker at beginning of round; knit even for 2".
Decrease 10 sts around (90 sts.): *k8, k2tog – repeat from * for 1 round.
Knit evenly for 3" (total of 5" now knit)
*(knit 3, knit 2 tog, k2, k2tog) repeat from * for 1 round (70 sts)

Knit 8" more (13" total from the beginning)
Crown:
Row1: K2tog, K5
Row2: K
Row3: K2, K2tog (change to DP needles now) (45 sts)
Row4: K
Row5: K2tog, K1 (30sts)
Row6: K
Row 7: K2tog around (15 sts)
Row 8: K
Then K2tog around until you have about 6 sts left.
With a tapestry needle, thread remaining stitches onto tail of yarn; pull tight. Bring tail to the inside of hat and sew in ends.
Felt in washing machine on strongest cycle using HOT wash with detergent and COLD rinse. Add another item such as jeans to really bash the hat around. (Don’t use a towel- you’ll be picking fluff off your hat for months). At the end of the rinse cycle, remove hat while damp and shape over your head or some other appropriately shaped object. If still too large, wash again (checking every few minutes) - if too small, s t r e t c h it!

​*For a tube shaped toque, cast on 70 stitches and knit 13" to 15" and then do decreases for crown. You will get a nice rolled brim toque.

​When I want to knit a “baby project” there are so many cute outfits that are tempting to knit but I realize that they are quickly outgrown. This time I decided on a blanket, it is never outgrown and if colours are chosen carefully it can grow up with the child and not only provide colour stimulation in the crib (I believe in bright colours for babies) but maybe go off to college some day as a reminder of home and be thrown over the end of the bed or a chair and wrapped around the shoulders for some home comfort.
To this end, I came up with an easy pattern to knit that used soft yet washable yarns (hand dyed sock yarn namely). It can easily be adapted to be knit from heavier yarns (see pattern for info on making changes) and also can be adapted to make a rectangular stole or a scarf. It has the ease and interest of the feather and fan pattern; a traditional favourite for baby blankets but without the holes which I think of as little traps for baby fingers. I hope that anyone who tries it out will enjoy knitting it as much as I did and even consider sending a photo of the finished project.

Materials used:
4 colours of fingering weight yarn – basically sock yarn in any colours that you chose or you may use only 2 colours or many more, what ever combination you fancy, even use up left over sock yarn! If you are purchasing yarn, you will use approx 50 gr of each colour if you have 4 colours; so a total of 200 gr.
Approx. finished measurements 25” x 42”
3.5 mm circular needles, about 32” long to allow you to fit all the stitches comfortably.
Stitch markers, 13 for the exact pattern written below.
Pattern notes: What this consists of is a 13 st repeat pattern sandwiched between 2 garter stitch borders of 5 sts ea. To make the blanket (shawl/scarf) wider or narrower simply increase or decrease the # of stitches cast on by increments of 13. You may also use other weights of yarn, the project will knit up much quicker with a heavier gauge of yarn, just do a swatch first to determine how many repeats you will need to give you the desired size and you will have to increase needle size too. (Quick reference for this project -you can go approx 1 size larger at least so for dk a 4.5mm, worsted 5 or 5.5mm and so on)
Abbreviations: kfb = knit in front and back of stitch (increases one)
K2tog = knit 2 together (decreases one)
For the blanket pictured in our Stitch of the Month:
On 3.5 mm needles cast on 179 sts. Work 4 rows of garter stitch. On the next row set up for pattern –
Knit 5, place marker,* knit 13 pm* repeat from * to * 12 more times, knit 5. Next row as row 2 below.
Pattern
Row 1: (right side) knit 5, slip marker *kfb, knit 4, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over the 2 stitches that were knit together, k4, kfb slip marker* repeat from * to * until last marker, slip marker, knit 5.
Row 2: (wrong side) knit 5, slip marker, purl to last marker slipping markers as you come to them.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times and then start new colour at the beginning of the next row.
Repeat the above 6 rows with next colour and so on until the blanket is desired length. Finish by knitting 6 rows and cast off loosely. Sew in ends and block.
--Heather Tunnah

This is a quick, easy knit project that is fun to wear in several different ways.
Materials:
9mm (or 8mm) circular needles, 24” in length
Approximately 200 m of yarn or a combination of 2 yarns. If using a single yarn, choose one that is worsted or heavier, if using 2 try to combine a fine one with a light worsted to dk weight. Our store sample is knit using 1 ½ skeins of Cashmere Queen (140 m ea) and one full skein of Debbie Bliss Angel Prints (200 m), holding both yarns together to knit.
The possibilities for yarn combinations are endless!
Terms used: M1: Make one stitch as follows: insert left needle under bar between stitch just knit and next stitch. Knit into the back of this stitch.
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together as if they are one.
Using 9 mm needles cast on 50 sts using the thumb loop method, if using 2 yarns, hold both strands together.
Knit 1 round, being careful not to stretch the strands between stitches. Now join in the round, being careful not to twist the knitting and purl 1 round. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Knit one round, and purl one round repeatedly until the knitting is 4 inches long.
On the next knit round increase: *knit 2, M1* repeat from * to * for one round giving you 75 stitches. Continue alternating knit and purl rounds until you have done 4 inches on the 75 sts, total of 8 inches now worked.
Next increase round:*knit 3 M1* repeat for 1 round giving you 100 sts.
Continue to work as you have on these 100 sts until the garment is 16” long or you run out of yarn!
Bind off using this method to give a nice loose edge: K2*insert left needle into front of 2 sts on right needle (from the left) from this position, K2Tog through back of loop, K1*, repeat between * & * to end with K2tog through back of loop. Fasten off.
--Heather Tunnah

In the days before patterning sock yarn, we had to work pretty hard to make a good random colour mix yarn. These days patterning sock yarn has made sock knitters of practically all of us and the stockpile of little leftover balls from these projects grows and grows.
I love those little balls like I love a button box, but the more there are, the more I'm tempted to play with them. The fruit of this play is mine all mine as I consider it free yarn and usually want to make something for myself from it. Of course you don't need little balls at all-2 regular balls of sock yarn with sufficient colour diversity will be fine as well.

A simple garter stitch scarf can be fun to knit up with this method. This one was done using a cast on of about 20 stitches. With two strands held together, just knit every row changing and mixing at will or when one your little balls runs out. When your scarf is long enough just cast of loosely and darn in the threads. You could even make two or three of these bands to sew together to make a wider scarf with lots of colour interest.

These easy projects make use of the fact that two strands of fingering or sock yarn knits up like a strand of light worsted weight yarn and is therefore a quicker knit. It also gives the opportunity to make a mix of many colours-more than usual even in most patterning sock yarns.
To make a fingerless glove project, assemble all your little balls and find two of each with similar colours in the mix. Use these, one for each, to make the two mitts, so they will be more or less matching. (If matching isn't a priority, ignore this last consideration.)

Start in on the pattern, working two strands together.
*On 3 mm. double point needles, cast on 40 stitches (double strand). If you are a tight knitter, use a larger needle. Join to form a circle.
K1, P1 around for about 40 rounds or 5 and one half inches. This makes the cuff.
At the beginning of a round, save 11 stitches on a stitch holder for the thumb.
Cast on 3 stitches to replace them, using the simple backward loop cast on method, to bridge the gap they left.
Continue knitting on these "hand" stitches until the work reaches midway on your little finger or to desired length. Bind them off.
Go back to the reserved thumb stitches and divide them among three needles, marking the beginning of the round. Knit rounds until the beginning of the thumb nail or to desired length. Bind off.
Make the other mitt in the same way.
A rolled brim hat in stocking stitch can be made following our Stitch Archive pattern from September 2010, called the Cloud Cotton Hat, but utilizing the 2 strand method with fingering or sock weight yarn.

Nothing beats a weekend morning, knitting in on lap, coffee in hand. A French Press makes such delicious coffee but if you like to savour your coffee like I do, you’ll likely be drinking your second cup luke warm. This tea cozy knock-off will keep your coffee warm all morning long.
Materials:
Worsted weight yarn, sample is knit in Vintage
3.5 mm needles
button, approximately 2 cms wide

Gauge:
20.5 sts/10 cm in garter stitch on 3.5 mm This pattern is written for a bodum 30.5 cm around and 18.5 cm tall
Cast on 60 stitches
Work garter stitch (knit every row) for 6 cm
Knit across next row. Do not turn. Using backwards loop method, cast on 10 stitches
Continue in garter stitch on these 70 sts for 6 rows. Next row should begin at the tab
Buttonhole: Knit 2 sts. Cast off 3 stitches. Knit remaining sts.
Next row: Knit to cast off sts. Using backwards loop method, cast on 3 sts. Knit 2 sts.
Continue in garter stitch for another 6 rows. Next row should begin at the tab
Cast off 10 sts. Continue in knit to end of row
Knit for 6.5 cm further.
Begin spout decreases:
The rest of the piece is now worked one half at a time. If using circular needles leave stitches from the half that you are not working on the needles. If using straight needles put half of the stitches (30) on a holder
Row 1: Knit 28 sts, K2tog, turn work
Row 2: SSK (slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, knit those two stitches together), Knit remaining sts
Row 3: Knit 26 sts, K2 tog, turn work
Row 4: SSK, Knit remaining sts.
Cast off until there are 3 sts remaining, knit final 2 sts together, cast off remaining st. Including the cast off row, there are 5 decrease rows.
Work the other side in the same manner, being sure to continue the garter stitch pattern.
Weave in all ends. Sew on button. Enjoy! --Angela Churchill

​Inspired by a large collection of colours in Shetland Spindrift yarn that I have in my stash (left from all the tams and other projects) I wanted to come up with a pattern to make some small bowls using that yarn. The bowls turned out well in so far as shape but they are not very firm, this yarn didn’t felt as well as I thought it would, it went through 3 cycles in my washer on hot with even a pair of sneakers once to try to hasten the process. So I offer this pattern for those who want to use it with other yarns and change the needle size (using the recommended needle for the yarn you are using) and come up with some larger but sturdier bowls. I plan to try some next in Fritidsgarn and Galway that I have remnants of. Here are the directions for the bowls that I have made.
I used 3 mm double pointed and circular (16”or 40cm) needles.

Smallest Bowl
(pictured in blue – seabright)
finished measurements
1 ½ inches high and 3 ¼ inches across.
Using a double strand of yarn cast on 56 stitches. Break the second strand and continue in one strand only. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round and join in the round, careful not to twist! Knit 3 rounds.
Now we are going to do some increases, I used markers to remember where my increases were. Set up round: Knit 7, PM (place marker) and repeat to end of the round. That should be 8 markers including the one to mark the beginning of the round. Increase round *knit to marker M1(make one) slip marker,* repeat from * to * to end of round. Knit 4 rounds without further increases and then repeat the increase round again, you should have 72 sts now and you can remove the markers. Knit 4 more rounds.
Decreasing for the bottom: *Knit 8 sts, pm * repeat around, there will be 9 markers (including the beginning of round marker.)
Decrease round: *Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog slip marker* repeat from * to end of round. Knit one plain round.
Repeat these 2 rounds until 18 stitches are left. K2tog all round, break yarn, thread through a darning needle and pass through the stitches, draw tight and sew in all ends.

Medium Bowl
Pictured in purple heather
Approx finished measurements
2 inches high, 3 ¾ inches across
Using a double strand of yarn cast on 70 sts. Break one strand and continue in single yarn. Place a marker for the beginning of the round, join in the round being careful not to twist. Knit for approx 2 ½ inches then place markers for bottom decreases:
Knit 10, pm* repeat to beginning of round marker. Next round *knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slm* repeat to end of round. Knit one round plain. Repeat these 2 rounds until 14 sts remain, break yarn, thread through sts and sew in all ends.
​
Largest Bowl
Pictured in Green (Leprechaun)
2 ½ inches high, 5 inches wide
Using a double strand of yarn cast on 96 sts. Break one strand and continue in single yarn. Place a marker for the beginning of the round, join in the round being careful not to twist. Knit for approx 3 ½ inches then place markers for bottom decreases:
Knit 12, pm* repeat to beginning of round marker. Next round *knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slm* repeat to end of round. Knit one round plain. Repeat these 2 rounds until 16 sts remain, break yarn, thread through sts and sew in all ends.
To felt bowls, place in washer set on longest cycle, hot wash cold rinse, add detergent and something to really bash them around, like a pair of jeans. Since this project doesn’t have to “Fit” someone, you can let it go the full wash and rinse cycle without checking, another cycle may be needed depending on the yarn you have used. - Heather Tunnah

The Roll-Down Cuff
​Another favorite, especially for little boys is the Roll-Down Cuff. It too is so very easy to do. Simply cast on your normal amount of sts.

Materials: Mulberry and Merino 2- 50 g. skeins, one of each colour (gold and silver ring), uses approx. 70 g. to make unblocked length of 40" on 121 sts. Or 1-100 g. skein of Silk Maiden (coral ring), uses approximately 63 g. to make unblocked length of 42" on 145 sts.
Needles: 5 mm. circulars, 24" cord *Note: This scarf is knit on bigger needles than normally recommended on the yarn label in order to give a looser, lacy texture.
Gauge: approx. 12 sts. to 4" or 3 sts. per inch. Adjust needle size as needed to accommodate personal tension and to produce preferred gauge.

Gold and Silver Ring
***If doing the 2 colour scarf, follow the directions for gold and silver (or desired colours) which appear in brackets before the beginning of a colour change. Just ignore these colour signals if doing the scarf in a single colour.
(Gold) Cast on (121) 145 stitches and join in a round with your circulars. Place marker and move it along each round.
Work 6 rounds in moss st.
Moss Stitch: Round 1: *K1, P1* around, ending K1
Round 2: *P1, K1*around, ending P1
Next round: (Silver) K1, yarn over, K 2 together around. If there is an extra stitch at the end of the round, knit it.
Next 3 rounds: Knit
(Gold) Purl one round, knit one round, purl one round.
(Silver) Knit 2 rounds.
(Gold) Bobble round: *knit 4, MB*around. Add bobble or knit extra stitches if any, whichever is prettier.
MB: (Make bobble) Knit 5 stitches into the next stitch by knitting into the front, then the back, then the front, then the back and then into the front again. Turn your work and purl 5. Turn work again and bind off 4, leaving your original stitch only.
(Silver) Knit next 2 rounds.
(Gold) Purl 1 round. Knit 1 round. Purl 1 round.
(Silver) Knit next 3 rounds.
Next round: K1, yarn over, K 2 together around. If there is an extra stitch at the end of the round, knit it.
(Gold) Work the next 6 rounds in moss stitch.
Bind off all stitches in pattern. --Shirlene Greer

Mother’s Day is quickly approaching and what better way to show our mothers we care than a bouquet of flowers...that will last forever!
Materials: Any weight yarn in a colour of your choice (heavier is better); needles to match
For stem, either pipe cleaner OR green or black yarn for i-chord; if making i-chord stem, you will also need a length of thin wire
Flower:
Cast on 10 stitches, leaving a long tail about 8 to 10 inches
Row 1: Purl
Row 2: Knit into front and back of every stitch
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: Knit
Repeat rows 1 to 4 twice more
Purl 1 more row
Cast off
I-Chord: (you will need either a cable needle or double point needles)
Cast on 3 stitches
Knit 1 row
*Slide stitches to other end of needle and knit another row. Repeat from * until i-chord is as long as you wish. Allow 1 cm for attaching to flower.
Put it together!
Roll the flower, purl sides in, with the stem (pipe cleaner or i-chord) on the inside.
Use the tail of the cast on edge to secure the stem to the flower. Continue up the side of the fabric to further secure it together.
Use the tail of the cast off edge and attach to the inside if the flower. Sew in ends.
If using i-chord:
Insert wire up through the i-chord
--Angela Churchill

Cast on 26 sts and knit 2 rows.
Next row knit one, make one knit to the end of the row.
Repeat this last row until you have 36 sts.
Knit 4 more rows.
Shape the tail:
Row 1: Knit 3 sts, bring yarn to front between the needles, slip next st to rt hand needle, take yarn to the back of the work, slip st back to left needle and turn your work.
Row 2: Knit 3 (to end of needle)
Row 3: Knit 2 and repeat the wrapping and turning of the next st just as you did above,
Row 4: Knit 2 to end of needle.
Row 5: Cast off 10 sts, knit to the end of the needle.
Row 6 to 10, repeat the last 5 rows.
You will have 16 sts left in the center of the knitting.
Shape head:
Rows 1-4 knit
Row 5: K1 k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Rows 6-8 same as row 5
This will leave you with 8 sts.
Knit 2 rows.
Cut yarn and leave about a 12 “ tail, thread it through the stitches as you remove them from the knitting needles and draw the stitches tight. Continue with this yarn to sew up remainder of head and body leaving an opening at the bottom large enough to slip an egg into.
Stuff the head lightly and run a length of yarn around the neck of the chick in a running stitch and cinch it in slightly to shape the neck. The egg gives the body it’s shape.
The eyes are French knots made with yarn and if you want to knit a beak instead of cutting one out of felt, here is how you do it.
Cast on 3 sts with dk or light worsted wt yarn. Knit 2 rows. Next row, k2tog, k1, next row k2tog, cut yarn and thread through remaining st, use the ends of the yarn to sew the beak to the chick’s face.
Happy Easter! - Heather Tunnah

​These cute little socks came about as a result of needing a baby gift for a new baby girl. The yarn I had chosen (Fabel by Garnstudio) was such a feminine pattern that the little trims and bobbles just seemed to happen on their own!
Once you have made a pair or 2 of these socks you may feel that you want to do your own thing and place the bobbles and picots in other places. Also you will notice that it would be easy to adapt these embellishments to other sizes of socks.
So go ahead and have fun with them!
BOBBLY BABY SOCKS
1 skein self patterning fingering weight sock yarn
2, 2.25 or 2.5 mm needles
Sizes: 0 – 6 mos, 6 mos – 1 yr
Terms & Abbreviations used:
Knitted cast on: knit one st but pass it back to the left needle and slip it back onto that needle.
Make Picot (MP) using knitted cast on, cast on 3 sts and then cast them off.
Make Bobble (MB) knit into the front, back, front, back & front of next st.
Turn work, slip 1st st, purl 4,
turn, sl1, k4
turn, sl1, p4
turn, cast off 4 sts
slip (sl) slip stitch from left to right needle without knitting or purling it.
The Sock:
Cast on 36 (40) sts.
Leave all sts on one needle and knit one row.
2nd row: k2, *MP, k3 repeat from * to end of row.
3rd row: turn and knit one row.
4th row knit and at the same time arrange sts on 4 needles: 9, 9, 9, and 9 (10, 10, 10, and 10). Join in the round and work in plain stocking st (knit every round) until you have 1 inch from the top trim. (or until you reach a band of colour that you want for your next bobbles).
Bobble Row: k2 and *MB k4. Repeat from * to end of round.
After Bobble Row knit for another ¼ to ½ inch and purl 3 or 4 rounds. (you can arrange this purled section on a stripe and it will really stand out)
Knit 5 rounds and begin heel:
Put the stitches from 2 of your needles onto one and work back & forth on these stitches for the heel flap.
1st Row: sl 1 knit one repeat to end of row
2nd row: sl 1, purl to end of row
Repeat these 2 rows till heel is 1 ¼ inches long.
Turn heel: (starting on a knit row) knit to the middle of the row, k2, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row; sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn
**sl 1 knit to within 1st st from gap, ssk, k1, turn
sl 1, p to within 1st st from gap, p2tog, p1, turn**
repeat from ** to ** until all heels sts are used up.
Again on a knit round, divide the sts left for the heel onto 2 needles. Knit across the second of these and work up the adjoining heel flap picking up the sts along the edge. These are all on one needle now along with ½ of the heel stitches. Knit across the 2 instep needles then down the other side of the heel flap picking up sts as you go and add the other half of the heel sts to this needle. Now, you have all sts on 4 needles again, needle 1 has ½ of the heel, needles 2 and 3 have the instep sts, needle 4 has the other half of the heel. Knit one complete round.
Next round: At the end of needle 1, k2tog. Knit across needles 2 & 3, on the 1st 2 sts of needle 4 ssk, knit to end of needle.
Knit one round plain.
Repeat the above 2 rounds until you are back to 9 (10) sts on ea needle again.
Knit without any changes until the foot measures 2 to 2 ½ inches from the back of the heel.
Toe decreases: Knit to the last 2 stitches on each needle and k2tog for one round. Knit 1 round plain. Continue these 2 rounds until you have 2 sts on ea needle. Break yarn leaving enough to thread through a darning needle and pass it through the stitches, draw tight and sew in end on the wrong side. Use the tail of yarn from cast on edge to close the small gap at the top of the sock.
--Heather Tunnah

Vertical Lace Trellis Scarf with Optional Tie-Up
Love those long skinny scarves that wrap around and around the neck! Knitting these is a great chance to try out new stitch patterns and new yarns as well.  Patterning or variegated yarns are fun to knit up always, but the vertical lace trellis pattern is interesting enough to be done in solid colour yarns too. This scarf takes advantage of the natural tendency of the Vertical Lace Trellis pattern to curl under along the sides.  It forms a cylindrical shape that can be worn in a variety of ways.
The Vertical Lace Trellis Pattern is described in Barbara Walker's A Treasury of Knitting Patterns (the blue one) on page 191 as "a pretty openwork design" and mentions its anti-biasing advantage.
The I-Cord or spool knit tie-up is a option more decorative than necessary;  but in a colourful, shiny contrasting yarn or ribbon, it can be quite pretty. Make multiples, if desired, to create many tie-ups on your trellis;  or, with spring coming, a flower-shaped brooch or shawl pin may not be out of place.

Happy New Year!

Grafting, or Kitchener Stitch, is a useful stitch to know to make your knitting projects even more professional looking. I discovered when making the Reversible Cables Circle Scarf (Stitch Archives September 2011) that regular grafting doesn’t work for a ribbed pattern. We need to adjust our grafting to properly join knit stitches with knit, and purl stitches with purl. To demonstrate this, I am joining two pieces of knit 2, purl 2 ribbing.
​
We will use the general steps of grafting outlined in the May 2011 Stitch Archives. To begin, line up the two rows of stitches. The working yarn should be coming from the righthand stitch on the back needle.

On this piece we are starting by joining two knit stitches:
Insert your darning needle purlwise trough the first stitch of the front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving that stitch on the knitting needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on knitting needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on the needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Here is where we sway from the original pattern:
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch an back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.

Now we are back to two knit stitches followed by two purls. Repeat rows 3 to 10 until the end. When you reach the end you can adjust the tension with your hands and darning needle to match that of the rest of your knitting. Weave in ends.
For further information on grafting in pattern go to page 74 of the Holiday 2010 edition of Interweave Knits.
-Angela Churchil

Some notes on the patterns and knitting:
The finished plain stocking is 5 ½ inches long from cuff to toe, the fairisle stockings are 4 ½ inches long.
I made no attempt to sew in the ends of the different colours of yarn used, simply cut the ends, tied a knot in them and trimmed them about ½ inch long.
Ssk: slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of the 2 slipped sts and knit them off together.
Plain 2 Coloured Stocking:
Cast on 32 sts with the Mohair, work garter stitch for ¼ to ½ inch. You can achieve garter stitch when working in the round by knitting one round, purling 1 round. Alternately you may wish to work the cuff flat and then join into the round when the cuff is done, using the end of the yarn to close the gap that is left.
Change to yarn and work in stocking stitch for approx 2 inches. Join contrasting colour for the heel, the heel is 16 sts wide, knit flat, the other 16 sts are not worked while you knit this.
Right side of heel: slip first stitch, knit to end of row (16 sts)
Wrong side: slip first stitch, purl to end of row
Repeat these 2 rows until heel is 1 inch long.
Turn heel: on right side row; k 10, ssk, turn. Sl 1, p 4, p2tog, turn.
*sl 1 knit to 1 st before the gap where you last turned and ssk turn
sl 1, purl to 1 st before the gap where you last turned and p2tog.
Repeat until all sts are used up. 6 sts remain. Divide these onto 2 needles and using main colour again pick up sts down the heel flap edge, knit across the instep sts and then pick up the sts on the other side of the heel flap and across the other half of the heel.
Rounds now begin in the middle of the heel, at the end of the first needle k2tog. Knit across the 16 sts for instep and at the beginning of the last needle, ssk knit to end of needle. Knit 1 round plain. Repeat these 2 rounds until you have 32 sts again. Knit on these sts until the foot is 2 inches long from the edge of the heel (where the colour changed). Change to contrasting colour and at the end of every other round k2tog until only 2 sts left on each needle. Break yarn, thread through darning needle and pass this through remaining sts and sew securely on the wrong side of sock. Make a crocheted loop to hang your sock.
Fairisle Stockings:
Following the same method as the plain stocking, cast on with the mohair, but only cast on 24 sts (arrange them 6 to each needle). After knitting the mohair cuff follow the **chart for pattern (bottom of the page). You can choose which colours you wish to use for the different symbols. For example in the green sock I used 365 chartreuse for the main colour, and 147 moss, 183 sand and 230 yellow ochre for the contrasts. After the chart is completed once, put 12 sts all on one needle and knit the heel.
RS sl 1, knit to end
WS sl 1, purl to end.
Do approx 8 rows for heel and then turn:
Sl 1, knit 8, ssk turn
Sl 1 purl 4 p2tog turn
*sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap (where you did your last p2tog & turned), ssk turn
p1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, turn*
repeat from * to * until all the sts are used up.
Divide the remaining 6 sts onto 2 needles. Knit across these sts and pick up & knit the stitches down the side of the heel flap. Knit across the 2 needles each having 6 sts for the instep, pick up the stitches on the other side of the heel and add the other half of the heel stitches (3) remaining to this needle. You should now have 1 needle with approx 8 to 10 sts on it, 2 needles ea with 6 sts and another needle with 8 to 10 sts on it. * Beginning with the first needle (that has 8 to 10 sts) knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. Knit across the 2 needles with 6 sts ea and at the beginning of the next needle, ssk knit to the end of the needle. Work 1 round with no decreases. The next round and every alternate one work the 2 decreases as set (beginning at *) and repeat these 2 rounds until there are 6 sts on each needle again.
Work the 2nd repeat of the fairisle patterns, changing the colours if you wish. When the pattern is finished, knit one plain round then on every other round k2tog at the end of each needle, until there are only 2 sts on ea needle. Break yarn, thread through a tapestry needle and through the stitches and sew in the wrong side.
Make a short crocheted chain to hang the stocking from. --Heather Tunnah
**CHART FOR FAIRISLE STOCKINGS**

CO any uneven # of sts. Knit 3 rows.

Row1: RS, Knit
Row2: WS, Knit 3, purl to last 3 sts. K3
Row3: Knit 3, *(P2, K1)*, repeat to last 3 sts. K3
Row4: Knit 3, *(K2, P1)*, repeat to last 3 sts. K3
Repeat these 4 rows to desired length.
Knit 3 rows. Bind off.
--Karen Simmons

MATERIALS: Galway Worsted Weight or Cascade, about 20 g.
NEEDLES: 5 mm. double points or to give approximate gauge
GAUGE: about 3 and 1/2 sts. per inch in garter stitch, unfelted
NON-FELTED SIZE: lower part: 6 3/4", lid: 3 3/4", width: 4"
FELTED SIZE: lower part: 4 1/2", lid: 2 1/2", width: 3"
(Pictured above: Cascade Cell Version & Fritidsgarn Cell Version)
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Cell phones and cameras sometimes need a little protection to avoid scratches, moisture and dirt. These little pods or cases are a simple answer and can be custom-fitted to the device with a little care in the shrinking process. The fabric of the pod makes it easy to find when feeling around for it in your bag or pocket.


To make your Cell Pod, first we need to cast 28 stitches on one of the double-pointed needles.
Beginning at the bottom, we are going to knit a little bag, both sides at once, using 2 needles. To do this we knit both sides separately, but in one step, by alternating slip and knit stitches in the same row. If this sounds complicated, it isn't really, just repeat : *Knit 1, slip 1 (purl-wise),* to the end of the row which ends with a slip stitch. Turn your work and knit the next row in the same way. You will be knitting the slipped stitches and slipping the knit stitches and thus working both sides as you go up. Continue doing this for approximately 6 3/4 inches.
If you have slipped and knit faithfully in order, when you remove the needle and carefully separate the two layers you will have front and back of the bag. Working gingerly so as not to lose the live stitches, put 14 stitches on each of 2 needles above the front and back sides.
Front and Back Separated-14 stitches on each needle

Next, bind off the 14 stitches from what becomes the front edge of the pod. Knit to last of the stitches remaining and to make a neater join, if needed, knit 2 together with the next st. of the ones on the back needle.
Continue working along on the remaining 14 stitches to create the cover flap. Do this in stocking stitch instead of garter stitch. I made the knit side the outside. Work 3 3/4 inches and bind off. Sew in ends.
The finished item is felted in a hot water cycle in the washing machine, checked periodically until the correct size is achieved. More cycles may be required. Roll in a towel to remove excess water. Wrap phone in plastic wrap before trying for size. Pat into shape and air dry.
Needle-felt embellishments if desired. A snap, cord or button and loop closure can be added.
Fritidsgarn, single strand, using 20 sts. gives a slightly thicker variation.

CAMERA POD VARIATION
Use Fritidsgarn single strand (7mm. needles) or Galway or Cascade double-stranded (7 mm. needle) for a thicker and larger pod. About 35 g. of material are required. 24 stitches for the Fritisgarn and 24 for the Cascade or Galway doubled seems right. Unfelted dimensions are approximately: bottom: 7 1/4", lid: 4 1/4 " and width: about 4 ". Felted dimensions: bottom: 5" (Fritidsgarn) or 5 1/2" Galway, lid: 3" Fritidsgarn or Galway, width: 3 1/2" Fritidsgarn or 3" Galway. Slight variations in sizes are to be expected and are usually not critical. Just check shrinkage when felting and stretch slightly into shape, for width and especially around the opening, when wet, to allow entry of device.
Use in good health! Excellent Christmas stocking stuffer.
--Shirlene Greer

Even though winter is (with any luck!) a few months off, now is the time to start thinking about winter knits so we have time to enjoy wearing them in the cold months. So, put down the cotton, linen, and bamboo and pick up the cozy wool.
These are instructions to make a fairly chunky Reversible Cable Circle Scarf in Alfa. One of the unfortunate things about putting cables on a scarf is that it can give you a right and a wrong side which can be difficult to control while wearing as the scarf moves around. With this scarf, there is no right or wrong side. Feel free to use this as a literal pattern or simply as a guideline to inspire your own creations. Since gauge is not so important in scarves, use any yarn you like, just adjust the needle size and ensure the length is correct. The frequency of the cables is really up to you. I chose to do a simple repeat of three sets of cables close together followed by a long plain stretch - as many or as few as you like!
Yarn: 4 - 50 g balls of Alfa, sample is colour # 4853
Needles: 8mm
C2F: Sl2 sts onto cable needle, hold in front; K2 from left-hand needle, knit 2 from cable needle
Using a provisional cast on (see May 2011 in Stitch Archives), CO 28 stitches. I used quite a heavy piece of scrap yarn because Alfa is very heavy.

Establish ribbing as follows:
Base Row 1: P2, K2, *P4, K4* repeat from * to * twice, P4, K2, P2
Base Row 2: K2, P2, *K4, P4* repeat from * to * twice, K4, P2, K2
Repeat these two rows 3 more times. Repeat Base Row 1 once more.
**Cable Row 1: K2, P2, *C2F, P4* repeat from * to * twice, C2F, P2, K2
Cable Row 2: P2, K2, *P4, C2F* repeat from * to * twice, P4, K2, P2

Starting with Base Row 2, work Base Row 2 and Base Row 1 twice.
Cable Row 1
Cable Row 2
Base Row 2 and Base Row 1, twice
Cable Row 1
Cable Row 2
Row 2 and Row 1, 8 times
Repeat from ** until scarf is close to desired length. Finish with three sets of cables, followed by 3 repeats of Base Rows 2 and 1.
Undo the crochet chain at the cast on edge to reveal the live stitches. Place stitches onto spare needle. Graft ends together to create a circle (see May 2011 in Stitch Archives), taking care to only twist if on purpose.

This is an alternative to your regular sock pattern; it adds a decorative cuff to the sock. I used a skein of Tanis sock weight yarn.
Cast on 63 stitches. (Multiple of 12 sts plus 3). Work pattern as follows for 3 inches.
Row 1 k1, k2tog, k4, yo:* k1,yo,k4,sl1-k2 tog-psso,k4,yo; rep from *, end k1,yo, k4 SKP, k1.
Row 2 and all even rows knit.
Row 3 k1,k2tog,k3,yok1, *k2,yo,k3,sl 1-k2tog-psso, k3, yo,k1; rep from *, end k2, yok3,SKP, k1.
Row 5 k1,k2tog,k2, yo k1,yo*sl 1- k2 tog-psso, yo, k1,yo,k2, sl1-k2tog-psso, k2, yo,k1,yo; rep from *, end sl 1-k2tog-psso,yo,k1,yo,k2 SKP,k1.
Row 7 k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2,yo *sl1-k2tog-psso,yo,k2,yo,k1,sl1-k2 tog-psso, k1,yo,k2,yo;rep from *, end sl1-k2 tog-psso,yo,k2,yo,k1,SKP,k1.
Row 9 k2,yo, SKP, k2tog, yo, k1,*k2, yo, SKP, k2tog, yo, k1, yo,SKP,k2tog,yo,k1,from *, end k2, yo,SKP, k2tog,yo,k2.
Row 10 knit.
At this point turn the sock leg inside out and continue. Work the leg until it measures the same length as the cuff.
Use your regular sock pattern to finish the sock.
The Foliage Lace pattern is from the Vogue daily calendar for 2010.

iPhone Cozy
(includes instructions for provisional cast on & grafting)
Recently I had a request to make a cell phone cozy for a family member’s new iPhone. Of course I saw this as an opportunity for a stitch of the month project! And I know that 2 of the frequently asked questions at the store are about provisional cast ons and grafting, this pattern covers both. (I should mention that this is only one of the many provisional cast ons, it is the one I find the easiest to remember).
For the cozy I used a small amount of a 50 gram ball of sock yarn (fingering weight) –in this case Footloose in colour # 9- sun dance. The gauge is 8 sts/inch on 2.5 mm needles. (Or what you need to achieve this). It is knit in a tube starting with the provisional cast on, and then when finished, grafted together at the bottom, if you prefer you could always knit it in a flat piece and sew it together. It has a draw string top for quick access to open.
To begin: This provisional cast on starts with a crochet chain. We need to cast on 44 knitting sts so using a smooth fairly fine waste yarn, (cotton works well) make the crochet chain 50 or more stitches long. You will see on the crochet chain that it has, just like knitting, a knit and a purl side - the knit side being the flat stocking stitch and the purl the bumpy purl looking one. We are going to use the purl side and knit one stitch into each of those purl bumps. Leave a 10 to 12 inch tail of the yarn you are knitting with to use for grafting.

When you have the 44 knit sts picked up using the yarn for the cozy, leave the end you stopped crocheting with dangling a bit so you have easy access to it when you are ready to unravel it, because that is what you will do to expose the live stitches you started with. Now join the sts into the round with 3 or 4 needles and knit stocking stitch for 114 - 15 cm. Then do a row of eyelets for the drawstring: Knit 2, YO for all of this round. On the next round knit, knitting into the YO like any other stitch. Knit a further 1.5 to 2 cm and cast off loosely.

Now, carefully undo the crochet chain exposing the stitches that you cast on with. Put the stitches on 2 double pointed 2.5 or smaller needles, 22 on each. To graft, use the tail left from casting on and a blunt tip darning needle. Line the 2 rows of stitches up together.
To begin::
1. Insert your darning needle purlwise trough the first stitch of the front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving that stitch on the knitting needle.
2. Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on knitting needle.
3. Insert tapestry needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle, slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
4. Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch an back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Repeat steps 3 & 4 until all stitches on both front and back needles have been grafted. Darn in end securely.
Now knit a 3 st I cord (see SOM archives March 2006) approx 35 cm long and thread it through the eyelets. Darn in all ends and you are done! --Heather Tunnah

Materials: 2 balls Galway wool - finished hat weighs about 105 (125) grams and measures approximately 18-20 inches in circumference (inside measurement) unextended.
Needles: 7 or 8 mm. 24" circular and 7 or 8 mm. double pointed
stitch marker
Note: Yarn is used double-stranded throughout.
With the circular needle, cast on 64 stitches, remembering to use 2 strands together. Make a circle with the needle and begin knitting. Placing a stitch marker at the beginning of the round and moving it along each round makes it easier to keep track of the rounds, especially when doing the crown decreases.
Knit for 10 inches. Green and navy examples are knit 10 inches. (A slightly larger hat or one with a wider brim can be made by knitting for 12 inches at this point instead of 10. Red example is knit 12 inches.)
Crown: Round 1: *knit 2 together, knit 6*, repeat to end of round (56 sts)
Round 2: knit
Round 3: *knit 2, knit 2 together,repeat around (42 sts)
(Change to double points when practical to do so.)
Round 4: knit
Round 5: *knit 2 together, knit l, repeat around (28 sts)
Round 6: knit
Round 7: knit 2 together around (14 sts)
Round 8: knit
Round 9: knit 2 together around (7 sts)
Round 10: knit
Round 11: knit 2 together to last st, knit 1 (4 sts)
At this point you may run the yarn through the stitches and end off, weaving in the yarn ends on the inside of the hat or make a topknot by placing the remaining 4 stitches on one needle and making an i-cord with 2 of the double points, sliding the stitches from one end of the double point to the other instead of turning the work at the end of each row. Knit in this way for about one inch, then knit two together twice on the next row and once on the following to end up with one stitch. Cut yarn and with a needle feed the thread to the inside and weave in the end.

Put the knitted hat into a hot water cycle in your washing machine with a little laundry soap and process, checking every few minutes until desired size is achieved.
Length of time, higher water temperature and more vigorous processing affect the amount of shrinkage. For the larger version, in the washing machine, check sooner and more frequently, if possible trying it on or measuring until desired circumference is achieved. (See red example.)
When correct size is achieved, squeeze suds out gently, rinse carefully and shape by rolling up brim to desired height. Air dry. (Hanging it on a suitably-sized jar, vase or inverted flower pot makes shaping easy, or try it on the recipient's head occasionally, if you can. to get the correct sizing and shape.)
When your hat is finished, you might try needle-felting a simple design on it. For some, that's when the real fun starts! --Shirlene Greer

MATERIALS: 6 mm needles, Galway yarn-one skein of navy, red and light blue (worsted weight). I only used about two skeins.
PATTERN: Cast on 165 stitches and knit 86 rows in garter stitch or 43 ridges. Cast off, sew the two sides together. Wash in hot water with a cold rinse to felt. This cover fit a 12” x 9” laptop. If you have a larger laptop add a few more stitches and an extra garter ridge or two and watch closely while felting.
This would also work well with a variety of leftover colors.
--Freda Cormier

Christmas time had arrived and I found a very cute & funky orange tea pot which I wanted to give as a gift, but it needed dressing up. Knitting needles to the rescue and a ball of Fritidsgarn wool that just happened to be the perfect orange, and the mandarin orange cozy was born! Very fast and easy to do. The pattern is for a small (one to two cup) tea pot, about 4 to 4.5 inches high and the body about 4 to 4.5 inches wide.
The second cozy, I just had to do another, is crowned with a flower I for the top. This flower is one that I made up using left over hand dyed Fleece Artist sock yarn, the same leaf pattern as for the orange. Do a search on Ravelry, or most anywhere on the net, and you will have many flower patterns to choose from, if you aren't as adventurous as I was to knit one free form. Have fun and be creative!
Materials:
1 50 gr skein Fritidgarn wool
1 pair 5mm needles
Small amounts of green yarn for leaves and accompanying appropriate needles, 3 double points (for ex. If you had a worsted wt yarn, you could use 4mm needles)
Darning needle, scissors etc
Using 5mm needles and Fritidsgarn, cast on 18 sts. Knit 2 rows
Increase row: Knit 3, *m1, k2* repeat from * to * until there are 3 sts left on your left needle, m1, knit 3. 25 sts.
Knit until there are a total of 12 garter st ridges and begin decreases on next row.
Knit 1, *K2tog k2* repeat from * to * until the last 4 sts, K2tog twice. 18 sts
Knit 2 rows.
Next row, *k4, k2tog* repeating from * to * to end of row.
Knit 2 rows.
Next row *k3, k2tog* repeating form * to * to end of row.
Knit 1 row
Next row: *k2, k2tog* repeating form * to * to end of row.
Knit 1 row
Next row: *k1, k2tog* repeating form * to * to end of row.
Knit 1 row.
Next row, k2tog across all sts, 3 remaining. Do not cast off, break yarn, leaving a tail and put sts on a holder or spare needle.
Knit another half exactly the same.
When the 2nd half is finished, thread one of the yarn tails through the sts on holder and needle and draw tight. Sew in end to inside of cozy. Use the other end to darn part way down the seam of the two sides to where the handle of the teapot would be. On the opposite side, sew up the seam to where the spout would be. Close the 2 bottom seams to where the bottom of the spout and handle are. Set aside.
Make leaves
This pattern for knitting a leaf is unique to me, I got it from www.ravelry.com by searching in patterns for leaves. Here it is:
Using green yarn and needles of the appropriate size, cast on 3 sts on one of the dpn’s and make an i-cord of about ¼ to ½ inch. When you’re at the last row, add 3 extra sts by using cable cast on – 6 sts
Divide these 6 sts on 2 needles, 3 on ea.
You will be knitting in the round but on only 2 needles. Sounds a bit odd, but it works!
Round 1: on first needle, k1, yo , k1, yo, k1 – repeat this for 2nd needle (5 sts on ea needle)
Round 2: knit all sts
--Heather Tunnah

I think everyone loves Snowmen. I know I do. As the Christmas season gets under way, my Snowman Family is the first thing I dig out. They make me smile to myself as I put them in my kitchen where I can always see them. I have no idea where the pattern for these cute little guys originated. It was passed down to me years ago by a dear friend. I think this pattern goes back many years and I have since made numerous sets for my own family and friends. Now I would like to pass it on to share with you. The pattern was given to me with the hope others would enjoy making them and sharing them with family and friends as well. The pattern goes like this:

Materials: About 4oz. worsted wt. white yarn
2oz. DK wt. red yarn
2 oz. DK wt. green yarn
6 styrofoam balls: 3" and 4" for large snowman
2.5" and 3" for medium snowman
2" and 2.5" for small snowman
A small amount of black and red felt
Two 4mm or 4.5mm straight needles

NOTE: Cut a flat bottom off the top ball and a small amount off the bottom of the bottom ball. Glue or toothpick the two balls together to secure them. Set aside.

MR. SMOWMAN: Using white yarn, CO 30sts for body. Work pattern as follows:

Rows 1 & 5: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Purl to last 3 sts., turn, knit back. (last step counts as row 4). This makes a dec. row.
Rows 6,7,8 : Purl
Repeat this pattern until there are 9 dec. sections that fit closely over the snowman's head and body. Cast off. Sew edges together and pull over the two styrofoam balls.
HAT: With red yarn CO 44sts. Work 5 rows of ribbing (K1, P1) then stocking stitch (K1 row, P 1 row) until piece measures 2.5".
Next row: K2 tog across row.
Next 3 rows: Stocking st.
Next row: K2tog across row
Gather sts. together with tapestry needle. Sew seam and weave in ends.
Add a pompom, if desired.

SCARF: With green yarn CO 50sts. Work 4 rows of Seed st. (K the P. P the K sts.). Cast off and add fringe, if desired.

MRS. SNOWMAN: With white yarn CO 22sts for body. Work pattern 8 times until there are 8 dec. sections. (On dec. row knit to last 2 sts., turn). Finish as Mr. Snowman.

HAT: With red yarn CO 34sts. Work 4 rows of ribbing, then stocking st. for 2", finish dec. and hat as Mr. Snowman's hat. Add pompom.

SCARF: With green yarn CO 40sts. Work 2 or 3 rows Seed st. Cast off. Add tassels.

BABY SNOWMAN: With white yarn CO 16sts. for body. Work pattern 6 times until there are 6 dec. sections. On turn row, work to last 2 sts., turn. Finish as Mr. Snowman.

HAT: With red yarn CO 27sts. Work 3 rows ribbing, then stocking st. for 1 3/4" Finish dec. and hat as Mr. Snowman's hat.

SCARF: With green yarn CO 35sts. Work 2 or 3 rows of Seed st. Cast off. Add tassels.

Add faces to snowmen with black and red felt and enjoy.
All of us at Have a Yarn wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and a Happy Knitting in 2011!
-Karen Simmons

Winter is rushing up for an attack and we all need a little weather protection. Here are a couple of basic neckwarmer patterns to employ in defending a vulnerable area
All examples are done in a worsted weight gauge, approximately 18 stitches in 4 inches (10 cm.), using 4.5 mm. needle (16 inch or 40 cm. circular). Note: Feel free to go up or down a needle size to suit your personal tension and taste regarding the firmness of the fabric.

PATTERN 1. FAN AND FEATHER NECK ARMOUR
Example 1: Portland Tweed, 1 skein

Cast on 90 stitches and join into a round, placing a marker at the join and moving it up with each completed round.
Fan and Feather Pattern:

• Round 1: Knit
• Round 2: Knit
• Round 3: *(K2 tog.) 3 times, (YO, K1) 6 times, SSK 3 times* repeat around to marker
• Round 4: Knit

Knit in fan and feather pattern for 7 inches (18 cm.) or to desired length. Two rounds or so of garter stitch finishes off and slightly spreads the bottom of your neckwarmer to ease around the base of the neck. Cast off loosely. Weave in threads.

PATTERN 2. BASIC RIB NECK ARMOUR
Note: As this pattern is based upon a round of 90 stitches, most rib combinations which can divide evenly into 90 could theoretically be substituted for the two used in the examples.
Example 3: Blackstone Tweed, 1 skein

Cast on 90 stitches and join into a round, placing a marker at the join if desired.
Rib: *Knit 2, Purl 2* repeat to the end of the round and do this every round. Work in this rib pattern for 7 and 1/2 inches (19 cm.) or to desired length. Cast off in rib preferably and rather loosely. Weave in ends.
Note: A size larger needle was used for the last two inches (4 cm.) of this example in order to spread the rib slightly to ease aroud the base of the neck.

This example was done following the directions for example 3 but employing a Knit 1, Purl 2 rib instead. Approximately 3 inches of colour 1 was worked, followed by 4 inches of colour 2 and ending with 1/2 inch of colour 1.
Note: * The basic rib neck armour folded over makes a great headband to keep your head and ears cozy too. *
Keep warm!
-Shirlene Greer