Sizes: Medium (Ladies’), Large (Men's)
Note: the finished size is ultimately controlled by the felting process.
Materials: 2 balls of Galway Worsted Weight
8 mm double pointed needles
stitch markers, stitch holder, tapestry needle
**** Please note, mittens are knit using two strands of yarn****
Cast on 24 (28) sts loosely. Arrange sts evenly on 3 or 4 double pointed needles, place marker and join into round. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 12 (14) rounds. K12 (14) sts, M1L, K12 (14) sts, M1L. 26 (30) sts.
Rnd 1: Knit 12 (14) sts. Place marker, M1L (see glossary), K1, M1R, place marker, knit to end.
Rnd 2: Knit
Rnd 3: Knit to marker, slip marker, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slip marker, knit to end.
Increase 2 sts inside gusset markers in this way every other round until you have a total of 9 (11) gusset sts.
Knit 2 (3) rounds and then proceed with the thumb hole.
Thumb hole and body of mitten:
Place gusset sts on holder (or piece of yarn), remove markers, use the backward loop method (see glossary) to cast on 3 sts over gap left by gusset, and knit to end of round. (28, 32 sts).
Knit 15 (19) rounds even.
Decrease Top of Mitten:
Rnd 1: k5 (6), k2tog,* repeat from * to * to end of round.
Rnd 2: Knit
Decrease 4 sts (working 1 less knit st between decreases) in this manner every other round until there are 16 sts remaining.
Decrease in this manner every round until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and darn securely inside.
Place held gusset sts on double pointed needles, pick up and knit 3 sts over gap and join. NOTE: when it is time to weave in loose ends, you can close the gap that is at the base of the thumb. It will disappear after the mitten is felted.
Knit 7 (8) rounds. (12, 14 sts)
First thumb decrease: K2 tog, K4 (5) , K2tog , K4 (5). (10, 12 sts)
Knit 3 (4) rounds.
Next round: *K2tog *repeat around. Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and fasten inside.
Work next mitten in same fashion as first.
Weave in loose ends, closing gaps at base of thumb. Now it is time to felt!
Felt both mittens at the same time in order to get the same size. Size is controlled by the amount of felting, so watch closely, and remove from washer when the size is right. To protect washer from lint, you can place the mitten in an old pillow case and tie shut. Felt in washing machine on strongest cycle using HOT wash with mild detergent. Add another item such as jeans to really bash the mittens around. (Don't use a towel – you'll be picking fluff off your mittens for months). For even felting, remove both mittens each time to check the size and shape. If still too large, wash again – if too small, s t r e t c h it! Rinse with cold water in your washer or by hand. Do not spin dry because it may cause creases. Roll in a towel to remove excess water, shape and air dry.
* * * * *
Backward Loop Cast-On:
Loop working yarn and place on needle backward so that it doesn't unwind. Repeat for desired number of sts.
With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the back to twist the stitch. Creates a left slanting stitch.
With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front to twist the stitch. Creates a right slanting stitch.
~Have a Yarn
After the last Introduction to Sock Knitting class I realized a need for clear written and visual instructions for getting started on double pointed needles. The trickiest part of using DPNs is actually casting on and getting it joined while trying to manage five tiny needles that all seem to want to go in different directions. Before you give up on your DPNs give these instructions a try:
Cast on enough stitches to fill or nearly fill one needle - something close to the number you have to cast on.
Slip half of the total number of needed stitches onto a new needle (ie. if the total number to be cast on is 32, slip 16). Remember: start slipping from the slip knit end so as to not loosen the stitches at the working end.
Cast on remaining number of stitches needed (ie. 16 stitches on each of the two needles for a total of 32).
Fold stitches in half; needles should be parallel with no twists in the stitches - working yarn should be coming from the back needle, right side
The first stitch to be knit is the slip knot: first stitch on the right side, front needle.
Knit across the third 1/4 of the stitches - you now have a square!
Use another new needle to knit remaining stitches - you should now be working on five needles and be back to the beginning.
You are now ready to continue on with your pattern in this direction. When you start the second round give an extra little tug to the first stitch to narrow the gap that can sometimes form there.
Happy DPN knitting!
There are so many options for beautiful knit hats this time of year. If you wish to "up your game a bit" and try cables in a hat, this is a good choice. It uses 100 grams of any worsted weight yarn. It is sure to keep your ears toasty during the winter chill.
200 metres (220 yards) of worsted weight yarn (usually 100 grams)
4mm 16" circular needle
4.5mm 16" circular needle
C2L: left cross cable - slip 1st 2 stitches onto cable needle and let hang to front of work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the left needle, then holding the cable needle in your left hand, knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
Working in the round and using smaller circular needles, cast on 108 stitches, join.
Round 1: Knit
Round 2: *Knit 1, purl 1* repeat from * to * around. Repeat second round until band measures 6 cms/2.5 inches.
Turn piece inside out, knit 1 round, increasing 2 stitches evenly =110 stitches.
Change to larger circular needles.
Rounds 1-3: *knit 4, purl 6* repeat from * to * around
Round 4: *C2L, purl 6* repeat from * to * around.
Rounds 5-6: As for rounds 1-3.
Repeat these 6 rounds until hat measures 12 cm/5 inches from start of cable patterning.
Next round: decrease 1 stitch in the middle of every purl section. Decrease in this manner every 4 rounds twice more, then every 2 rounds twice.
There is now 1 purl stitch remaining between cables. Work 1 round after the last decrease.
Next round: knit 2 together in the middle of each cable. Work 1 round purl 1, knit 3. On the next round knit 2 together around.
Cut yarn, thread tail through stitches, gather and sew in end securely on wrong side of hat.
3 mm needles
Fingering weight yarn in white (or colour of choice) for this project I chose Fame Trend Paljette – a soft fingering weight yarn with sequins in it. A small amount is all that is needed.
A small amount of stuffing (such as a cotton ball) for her head.
K1b: knit 1 through back of stitch.
Yo: yarn over
RS: right side
Ssk: slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of the 2 slipped sts from left to right and k2tog
K2tog: Knit 2 together
Using knitted cast on, cast on 37 sts. Repeat rows 1 & 2 of pattern below:
Row 1 : K1b *P2, K1b; repeat from *
Row 2: P1, *K1b, K1, P1; repeat from *
Repeat these 2 rows approx 24 times (about 2”)
Next row: K1b, *sl next stitch off needle and allow it to unravel to cast on edge, p1, k1b; repeat from *
NOTE: you may need to “help” the stitches to unravel with the tip of a needle, they can sometimes stick to each other and not want to unravel.
Head: With remaining # of stitches (reduced from the 37) work stocking stitch (ie knit one row, purl one row) for approx 20 rows. Break yarn and leave a long end to thread through a darning needle and pick up the live stitches from your knitting needle, gather them together and sew shut then sew the seam down the back of the head. Lightly stuff the head and wind the yarn around her neck drawing it tight and securing the end of the yarn. Sew down the back of her dress to complete the body.
Wings: Using the same needles, cast on 5 sts.
Row 1: (RS) K2, yo, k1, yo, k2 – 7 st
Row 2: and all even numbered rows : purl
Row 3: K3, yo, k1, yo, k3
Row 5: K4, yo, k1, yo, k4
Continue in this pattern (increasing by 1 st before the YO and K1 then after) until you have a total of 17 sts on your needle.
On the next RS row Ssk, k13, k2tog, continue to purl wrong side rows
Continue to Ssk the first 2 sts and k2tog the last 2 sts on all right side rows until there are only 3 sts remaining. Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over Fasten off.
Make second wing. Sew wings to back of angel’s shoulders.
Halo and arms:
These are made of I Cord. (see March 2006 Stitch Archive)
Halo is approx 1 ½ to 2 inches of 4 st i-cord; form into a circle and lightly tack in place at the back of her head. Arms are also 4 st i-cord long enough to reach from her waist, around her shoulders and back to waist. These are lightly tacked on with yarn and darning needle.
Attach a fine loop of thread or yarn to hang your ornament from.
There is a common feeling among knitters as November rolls around. This feeling is often accompanied by accelerated heart beat and sweaty palms. This feeling is of course the Christmas panic.
No need to worry! These simple and classic mittens are an excellent gift idea for everyone on your list. Knit in a worsted weight, you can have a pair finished in a few evenings. Have a Yarn has several yarns that can change the look and degree of warmth and softness of your mittens. Vintage (shown) is a tried and true machine washable classic that comes in solids, heathers, and lovely variegated colours. Yak offers an exotic warmth. Ultra Alpaca will make very soft and warm mittens with its 50/50 wool/alpaca blend. Blackstone Tweed has beautiful tweed and marled colours and Galway offers a classic 100% wool look and feel. Take your pick!
Needles: 3.5mm double points
Yarn: 200m of worsted weight yarn
Sizes: Women (Men)
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch
M1: make one stitch - insert right needle under strand between last knitted stitch and first st on left needle. Slip this over your left needle by putting the left needle in front of the strand picked up and poking it through. Now knit into the back of this new stitch.
Cast on 44 (48) sts, divide on 4 needles: 8, 12, 12, 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) & work 3 to 4 inches in k2, p2 ribbing
Knit 4 (6) rounds
Next round: k1, p1, (M1, k1) 2x, p1, knit to end of round (both sizes)
**For the next two rounds knit, purling the sts that were purled last round.
Next round, k1, p1, k1, M1, knit to first st before the purled st and M1 then k1, p1 and knit to the end of round.**
Repeat from **to** until you have 14 (16) sts between the 2 purled sts.
Knit one round, purling the purl sts.
Next round: K2 then put the 14 (16) sts on a holder or thread for the thumb, cast on 2 sts over the gap for the thumb in this way: turn your work around (so that the wrong side is facing you) and use the cable cast on: insert right needle between the last 2 sts. From this position, knit a stitch and slip it knit wise to the left needle. Remove the right needle and repeat to give you 2 new sts. Turn the work back so the right side is facing you. Join work and continue knitting. Work even on 44 sts (48 sts) until mitt measures 5 ½ (6) inches from the end of the ribbed cuff.
Next round: Women: decrease 1 st on each needle (40 sts remaining)
Men: increase 2 sts evenly (50 sts total)
Begin decreases for top of mitten:
First decrease round: *k8, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round
Knit 1 round even
Second decrease round: *k7, k2tog, repeat from * to end of round
Knit 1 round even.
Continue decreasing by knitting 1 less st before the k2tog every other round and doing 1 round without shaping in between (i.e.. k6, k2tog next decrease round, then k5, k2tog, etc.)
When you have done K4, k2tog, start working the decreases every round.
When you have done K1, k2tog, the next round k2tog all the way round, break yarn and using a darning needle, thread all stitches onto remaining yarn, pull tight, and sew off securely on the inside of the mitt.
Put the 14 (16) sts from the thumb on needles again and knit them. Pick up 3 sts in the gap where you cast on 2 sts and arrange sts evenly on 3 needles. 17 (19) sts. Knit in rounds until thumb measures 2 (2.5) inches.
Next round: k2tog all the way around. Break yarn, thread through darning needle, pass through all sts and sew securely in on wrong side.
1 ball worsted cotton; Sample is knit in Creme de la Creme
3.75 or 4 mm needles (pair or circular)
Cast on 16 sts leaving tail for sewing up
Row 1: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 2 sts, turn
Row 2 & all even rows: Knit back
Row 3: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 4 sts, turn
Row 5: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 6 sts, turn
Row 7: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 8 sts, turn
Row 9: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 10 sts, turn
Row 11: Cast off 5 sts. K to end
Row 12: Knit* - *In the 13th point row 12 will be cast off rather than Knit.
Repeat these 12 rows until 13 points have been formed.
At end of 13th point leave 6-8 inch tail and sew the 1st and 13th point edges together using a whip stitch.
Using tail in the centre of the cloth (or with a new length of yarn if no tail), pick up the garter stitch bumps at the end of each inner row and pull tightly to gather the centre stitches and secure.
**To avoid a seam, Provisional Cast On may be used in the beginning and stitches grafted or bound off using three needle bind off at the end.
Here is a fun and easy pattern to round off the summer and maybe even start you thinking about little stocking stuffers. Many use these for bracelets or key chains, but they make great hair elastics and probably have many other uses too. Plus they are pretty to look at!
Use combinations of the most colourful patterning yarn for best effect, or what you like to go with your outfit.
Yarn: small amounts of patterning 4-ply fine sock yarn
Needles: set of 5- 3 mm. double-points or what will give you desired gauge
yarn-sewing needle with large eye
Gauge: 4 stitches to the inch in stockinette stitch with yarn held double
With yarn held double, cast on 36 stitches onto one of your needles, divide these onto 4.
Join into a circle for knitting in the round, place a marker if desired to mark the starting point and begin knitting.
Knit 8 rounds.
Bind off. Cut yarn, leaving a few inches tail to sew in on stockinette side.
Turn so the purl side is on the outside and you have it!
This is a quick pattern for a short sock that makes a great house slipper. Nepal, 65% wool and 35% alpaca, makes a great choice to keep winter feet warm. They are knit and sized to be able to fit over another pair of socks for added warmth. Sample was knit to fit a size 8.5 foot.
Flat Dimensions: back of heel to toe = 10 inches; across foot = 4 inches
Gauge 4.25 stitches/inch with 5mm needles
Materials: 2 balls Nepal; 5mm double pointed needles
Cast on 36 stitches. Join in the round and knit 2, purl 2 for 1 inch.
Knit one round
Begin Heel Flap:
With needle 4 (last needle of the round), continue knitting across needle 1
There are now 18 stitches on one needle (heel flap stitches) and 9 each on needles 2 and 3
Continue to work across 18 heel flap stitches as follows:
Row 1: slip 1, purl to end
Row 2: *slip 1, knit 1, repeat from * across row, ending with a knit 1
Continue these two rows until heel flap is as long as it is wide (about 17 rows) ending with row 1 (a purl row)
Row 1: Slip 1, Knit 10, SSK, knit 1, turn
Row 2: Slip 1, purl 5, P2tog, purl 1, turn
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, SSK, knit 1, turn
Row 4: Slip 1, purl to last stitch before gap, P2tog, purl 1, turn
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all stitches have been used up. Should end with a purl row.
Knit across half of heel stitches
With a new needle knit remaining heel stitches. Continuing with same needle pick up and knit in each of the slipped edge stitches and one extra where the heel flap and instep join.
Knit across needles 2 and 3
With a new needle pick up and knit one stitch where the instep and heel flap join. Continuing down the heel flap, pick up and knit one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches and then knit the remaining heel stitches.
Knit one round
Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, knit 1
Needles 2 & 3: Knit
Needle 4: Knit 1, SSK, knit to end
Knit 2 rounds
Continue in this manner until there are 36 stitches.
Knit every round until sock is 2.5 inches shorter than length of foot.
Toe Decrease Round:
Needles 1 & 3: Knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, Knit 1
Needles 2& 4: Knit 1, SSK, Knit to end of needle
Knit 2 rounds
Toe Decrease Round
Knit 1 round
Toe Decrease Round
Knit 1 round
Toe Decrease Round
Knit 1 round
Continue with Toe Decrease Round until 8 stitches remain
Graft stitches together OR cut yarn and thread through remaining stitches.
Weave in ends.
Yes, it's Christmas in July! It's that time of year when most knitters are thinking about starting their Christmas gift giving projects and what more would be well received than these warm and beautiful mittens. This pattern has been a long-time favorite among knitters and loved by all those who receive them. Numerous variations of this pattern can be found on the internet but I would like to share mine with you.
Materials: 2 skeins (100gr. each of two colors) of worsted weight yarn. I love Nepal, 50gr balls (65% wool, 35% alpaca). It's so soft and warm, beautiful to knit with and comes in a gorgeous array of colors, it is my ultimate favorite. If you choose to knit with Nepal you will need 2 balls of your main color (A) and 1 ball of contrasting color (B).
Needles: Double points, 3.5mm and 4mm
Stitch holder or safety pin, darning needle
Using 3.5mm needles cast on 42sts. with color A (MC) dividing sts. evenly on needles. Place marker so you know where you started your round. Work in K1, P1 rib pattern for 2 1/2".
Change to 4mm needles. Purl 1 round. Purl another round increasing 6sts. evenly. (48sts.)
Begin pattern : *Knit 4 of color B, slip 2sts. of color A.* continue this pattern for a total of 5 rounds.
Purl 2 rounds with color A.
Important: Once you have completed the 5 rounds of pattern + 2 purl rounds, slip 3 stitches from your 4th needle (in your right hand) to your 1st. needle (in your left hand). A helpful hint: as you move your 3 sts. from needle 4 to needle 1 you will want to move your marker as well. You may also want to re-arrange your sts. on your needles to avoid a build up of sts. on needle one. Repeat pattern for a total of 5 times ending with the 5th round of pattern. You should have approx. 2 1/2" of pattern.
Thumb: On the first purl row P2 sts. on needle 1. Place the next 8sts. onto a stitch holder or safety pin. Cast on 8sts. to replace the 8sts. you just put on your holder. Purl around. Purl one more round.
Make 5 or 6 more patterns + the 2 purl rows or until your mitten reaches the tip on your little finger. Knit one more round re-arranging your sts. at the same time (12, 12, 12, 12). At this point break off color B. and use color A to finish your mitten.
*Knit 4, k2tog* around
Knit one plain round
*Knit 3, k2tog.* around
Knit one plain round
*Knit 2, k2tog* around
Knit one plain round
*knit 1, k2tog.* around
Knit one plain round.
*knit 2tog.* around
Draw your yarn through remaining sts. and weave in end on wrong side.
Thumb: With needle one pick up and knit 6 sts. from holder, with needle two pick up and knit 2 remaining sts. from holder, 1 st. from side and 3sts. from cast on edge. With needle three pick up and knit 5sts. from cast on edge and 1st. from the side. (18sts.) Knit in stocking stitch 2" or so or until just below the tip of thumb.
Decrease: *K1, k2tog.* around. Knit one plain round. Knit 2tog. around. Draw yarn through remaining sts. and weave in all ends.
Make the second mitten exactly the same. To knit smaller or larger mitts increase or decrease the number of sts. by 6sts. Enjoy!
MATERIALS: fingering sock yarn, patterned or plain
NEEDLES: Set of five 2 mm to 2.5 mm double points, depending upon knitter's personal knitting tension
GAUGE: about 7 stitches per inch in stocking stitch
SIZE: approximately a 6 month size, but foot and leg length can be shortened or lengthened as desired.
Have a Yarn has a lovely little sock pattern called Bobbly Baby Socks which has embellishments and is often used as a choice for a baby girl. My motive with this pattern is to make a sock which has a different look with a slightly more masculine feel, while still retaining the bobbles. It should fit a baby from about birth to 6 months or older, depending on the foot size of the baby. The leg and foot length can be adjusted as desired.
Cast 40 stitches on double points, dividing stitches evenly on four of the needles.
Join into a circle and rib for between 1 and 1 & 1/2 inches in a K1P1 rib.
Knit for 3 rounds.
Knit into the front, back, front, back and front of the next stitch.
Turn work, slip 1st stitch, purl 4,
Turn, slip 1, K4
Turn, slip 1, P4
Turn, cast off 4 stitches
Bobble Round: Knit 2, (MB, K4) to the last 2 stitches, K2
Knit for 3 rounds.
Purl for 3 rounds.
This makes the first of 2 purl bands which enclose a space which can be used for a favourite stitch pattern or left in plain stocking stitch if preferred, as in (above) Sample Brown.
Showcase Space: (Sample Blue)
Knit for 2 rounds.
(Knit 1, Purl 2)…to last 2 stitches, Purl 2 together. (39 stitches)
Repeat previous round for about 6 rounds.
Make 1, Knit to end of round. (40 stitches)
Redistribute stitches to 10 on each needle.
Sample Grey uses this space for moss stitch. This also requires the subtraction of 1 stitch per round to leave 39 stitches. This creates an odd number which makes doing the moss stitch easier. At the end of the showcase space, increase the stitch count to 40 again by adding 1 stitch.
Sample Red fills this space with a K2P2 rib. In this case, as in the stocking stitch sample, 40 stitches are used solely in the showcase round.
Purl for 3 rounds.
Knit 5 rounds.
Begin heel by putting the stitches of two needles onto one needle, for the heel flap.
Row 1: (Slip 1, Knit 1) to end of round
Row 2: Slip 1, Purl to end of round
Repeat these 2 rows till heel flap is about 1 and 1/4 inch long.
Turn heel: (knit row of heel flap) Slip 1, K 12, ssk, turn.
Slip 1, P 6, P 2 together, turn
Slip 1, K6, ssk, turn
Continue back and forth with the last 2 rows until 8 stitches remain.
Bring into round again:
(K row) Knit 4 stitches onto needle 1. With another needle (2) knit the remaining 4 stitches, then onto this same needle pick up and knit approximately 7 instep stitches.
Knit across the next two needles (3 and 4) as usual.
With needle 1, pick up approximately 7 stitches up the other side of the instep. (11 sts. on needle)
Knit these 7 sts., then the 4 heel sts.
The stitches should now be on the 4 needles again evenly and starting the foot section.
Next round: Knit to last 2 sts. on first needle, knit 2 together. Knit across next two needles as usual. On the fourth needle, ssk and then knit to end of needle. (40 sts. again in round, the original number)
Knit around as usual until foot measures 3 inches (or desired length) from back of heel to beginning of toe decrease.
Decrease for Toe: Knit to the last 2 stitches on each needle and K 2 tog. for one round. Knit 1 round plain. Continue these 2 rounds until you have 2 stitches on each needle.
Break yarn, leaving about 8 inches of tail. Use tail to thread a large needle and graft toe opening using Kitchener Stitch or draw up in a circle, and sew in end on the reverse side. Sew in cast on tail end also.
Make another sock to match.
I've done a pink one just to show what it looks in a more girly colour. The showcase section is a K3P1 rib and is done on 39 stitches like the blue and grey ones.
Hope you have fun with these!
It seems like infinity scarves, or circle scarves, are everywhere lately. This is a simple pattern that can be transferred to a variety of yarns of different fibre contents and weights. In the sample pictured, one skein of Berroco Vintage was used with 5mm needles until the yarn ran out. With a simple stitch pattern like Mistake Rib, we can make this scarf thinner or wider by adding or subtracting mutiples of two stitches, always maintaing an uneven number of stitches.
1 or 2 skeins of Vintage or any worsted weight yarn
4.5mm or 5mm needles, straight or circular
Cast on 27 stitches.
K1, P2, *K2, P2* repeat from * to * across row. This is called Mistake Rib.
Repeat this row until the scarf is your desired length.
Cast off all stitches.
To join ends:
Cut a length of yarn about 3 or 4 times as long as the width of the scarf; thread onto tapestry needle. Being careful not to twist unless on purpose, sew ends together one stitch at a time.
When you reach the end and have a complete circle, weave in ends.
Toddler's Long Tail Cap-Mix
Materials: My sample of one strand of worsted-weight yarn, in Ultra Alpaca (example 2-navy), weighed about 70 g. My 2 strand samples (example 1-mix and example 3-pink) of fingering (held together), weighed about 80 g. total.
Needles: 3.5 mm. circulars, 16" cord and 3.5 mm. double-pointed needles to close in the top. A stitch marker is helpful.
Gauge: approx. 20 sts. to 4" or 5 sts. per inch. Adjust needle size as needed to accommodate personal tension and to produce preferred gauge. This gauge should produce a cap of about 18 inches circumference which has stretch, fitting toddlers of under a year on up.
Toddler's Long Tail Cap-Navy
With either one strand of worsted-weight yarn (Navy example) or 2 strands of fingering held together (Mix and Pink examples), and using the circulars, cast on 80 stitches. Join into a round and place a marker to mark the beginning of the round. Knit for approximately 5 inches, moving the marker along with each round.
Make your first decrease round by knitting 8 stitches, knit 2 together, around to the marker. Knit for about 1 and 1/2 inches.
Second Decrease round: knit 7, knit 2 together ...around. Knit for about 1 and 1/2 inches.
Change to double-pointed needles when desired.
Third Decrease Round: knit 6, knit 2 together...around. Knit for about 1 and 1/2 inches.
Continue decrease rounds with plain knitted rounds in this way until after you do the round in which you knit 2 together around. At this stage you can cut your yarn, leaving enough yarn to gather up the stitches, secure and weave in the ends with a large-headed sewing needle. An alternate ending would be to continue decreasing, knitting 2 together, until 4 stitches remain. Then you can do an i-cord ending by placing the remaining 4 stitches on one of the double pointed needles and with the second of the double points, knit as if on straight needles, but sliding the stitches from one end of the double points to the other instead of turning the work at the end of each row. Knit in this way for about 3 or 4 inches, then knit two together twice on the next row and once on the following to end up with one stitch. Cut yarn and with a needle feed the thread to the inside and weave in the end. With this tail you may tie a knot as a finish.
Toddler's Long Tail Cap-Pink
This is a fun project to do and the 2 strand method can be used to advantage by utilizing your sock yarn leftovers, while making a colourful cap for your little one.
Felted hats are one of the best ways to ensure a warm head and ears in the cold months. Felted items completely block the wind and wool is a sure way to stay dry. It’s no surprise that this felted hat pattern has become one of our most popular. Since the hat is knit entirely with a double stand, one can mix colours to make a heathered look or stick with the same colour for a classic solid colour. The main body of the pattern is for the standard turned up brim. The first variation is for the wider turned up brim and the second is for the toque version.
Materials: 2 skeins of 100% wool, worsted weight that will felt, 200 m each skein
8 mm circular needles, 24” (60cm) works best
Double pointed set of 4 or 5 8 mm needles
+*#?! Please note: Knit entire hat using double strand of yarn!*+#?!
With a double stand of yarn, cast on 100 stitches loosely on circulars.
Join and place a marker at beginning of round; knit even for 2".
Decrease 10 sts around (90 sts.): *k8, k2tog – repeat from * for 1 round.
Knit evenly for 3" (total of 5" now knit)
*(knit 3, knit 2 tog, k2, k2tog) repeat from * for 1 round (70 sts)
Knit 8" more (13" total from the beginning)
Row1: K2tog, K5
Row3: K2, K2tog (change to DP needles now) (45 sts)
Row5: K2tog, K1 (30sts)
Row 7: K2tog around (15 sts)
Row 8: K
Then K2tog around until you have about 6 sts left.
With a tapestry needle, thread remaining stitches onto tail of yarn; pull tight. Bring tail to the inside of hat and sew in ends.
Felt in washing machine on strongest cycle using HOT wash with detergent and COLD rinse. Add another item such as jeans to really bash the hat around. (Don’t use a towel- you’ll be picking fluff off your hat for months). At the end of the rinse cycle, remove hat while damp and shape over your head or some other appropriately shaped object. If still too large, wash again (checking every few minutes) - if too small, s t r e t c h it!
*A further variation is to K the first 100 sts for 3" (instead of 2") and then do 2" on the 90 sts. This creates a wider turned up brim.
*For a tube shaped toque, cast on 70 stitches and knit 13" to 15" and then do decreases for crown. You will get a nice rolled brim toque.
When I want to knit a “baby project” there are so many cute outfits that are tempting to knit but I realize that they are quickly outgrown. This time I decided on a blanket, it is never outgrown and if colours are chosen carefully it can grow up with the child and not only provide colour stimulation in the crib (I believe in bright colours for babies) but maybe go off to college some day as a reminder of home and be thrown over the end of the bed or a chair and wrapped around the shoulders for some home comfort.
To this end, I came up with an easy pattern to knit that used soft yet washable yarns (hand dyed sock yarn namely). It can easily be adapted to be knit from heavier yarns (see pattern for info on making changes) and also can be adapted to make a rectangular stole or a scarf. It has the ease and interest of the feather and fan pattern; a traditional favourite for baby blankets but without the holes which I think of as little traps for baby fingers. I hope that anyone who tries it out will enjoy knitting it as much as I did and even consider sending a photo of the finished project.
4 colours of fingering weight yarn – basically sock yarn in any colours that you chose or you may use only 2 colours or many more, what ever combination you fancy, even use up left over sock yarn! If you are purchasing yarn, you will use approx 50 gr of each colour if you have 4 colours; so a total of 200 gr.
Approx. finished measurements 25” x 42”
3.5 mm circular needles, about 32” long to allow you to fit all the stitches comfortably.
Stitch markers, 13 for the exact pattern written below.
Pattern notes: What this consists of is a 13 st repeat pattern sandwiched between 2 garter stitch borders of 5 sts ea. To make the blanket (shawl/scarf) wider or narrower simply increase or decrease the # of stitches cast on by increments of 13. You may also use other weights of yarn, the project will knit up much quicker with a heavier gauge of yarn, just do a swatch first to determine how many repeats you will need to give you the desired size and you will have to increase needle size too. (Quick reference for this project -you can go approx 1 size larger at least so for dk a 4.5mm, worsted 5 or 5.5mm and so on)
Abbreviations: kfb = knit in front and back of stitch (increases one)
K2tog = knit 2 together (decreases one)
For the blanket pictured in our Stitch of the Month:
On 3.5 mm needles cast on 179 sts. Work 4 rows of garter stitch. On the next row set up for pattern –
Knit 5, place marker,* knit 13 pm* repeat from * to * 12 more times, knit 5. Next row as row 2 below.
Row 1: (right side) knit 5, slip marker *kfb, knit 4, slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over the 2 stitches that were knit together, k4, kfb slip marker* repeat from * to * until last marker, slip marker, knit 5.
Row 2: (wrong side) knit 5, slip marker, purl to last marker slipping markers as you come to them.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times and then start new colour at the beginning of the next row.
Repeat the above 6 rows with next colour and so on until the blanket is desired length. Finish by knitting 6 rows and cast off loosely. Sew in ends and block.
The idea for a shoulder cozy is not an original one to me, but this design was my idea to come up with something simple and quick to knit up that would be functional and warm to wear. It seems that when we get a chill the key areas needing to be warmed are the shoulders and back and this simple garment does that for you while allowing you to still have hands free and nothing dangling in front of you. It can also be worn as a circle or loop scarf. The other advantage is that you can knit it out of so many yarns or combinations of yarns. I used 2 rather luxurious ones since they are here and beg to be tried but you could use many of the yarns currently in your stash or something that strikes your fancy due to colour or texture. Go ahead, have fun, and stay warm!
This is a quick, easy knit project that is fun to wear in several different ways.
9mm (or 8mm) circular needles, 24” in length
Approximately 200 m of yarn or a combination of 2 yarns. If using a single yarn, choose one that is worsted or heavier, if using 2 try to combine a fine one with a light worsted to dk weight. Our store sample is knit using 1 ½ skeins of Cashmere Queen (140 m ea) and one full skein of Debbie Bliss Angel Prints (200 m), holding both yarns together to knit.
The possibilities for yarn combinations are endless!
Terms used: M1: Make one stitch as follows: insert left needle under bar between stitch just knit and next stitch. Knit into the back of this stitch.
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together as if they are one.
Using 9 mm needles cast on 50 sts using the thumb loop method, if using 2 yarns, hold both strands together.
Knit 1 round, being careful not to stretch the strands between stitches. Now join in the round, being careful not to twist the knitting and purl 1 round. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round.
Knit one round, and purl one round repeatedly until the knitting is 4 inches long.
On the next knit round increase: *knit 2, M1* repeat from * to * for one round giving you 75 stitches. Continue alternating knit and purl rounds until you have done 4 inches on the 75 sts, total of 8 inches now worked.
Next increase round:*knit 3 M1* repeat for 1 round giving you 100 sts.
Continue to work as you have on these 100 sts until the garment is 16” long or you run out of yarn!
Bind off using this method to give a nice loose edge: K2*insert left needle into front of 2 sts on right needle (from the left) from this position, K2Tog through back of loop, K1*, repeat between * & * to end with K2tog through back of loop. Fasten off.
In the days before patterning sock yarn, we had to work pretty hard to make a good random colour mix yarn. These days patterning sock yarn has made sock knitters of practically all of us and the stockpile of little leftover balls from these projects grows and grows.
I love those little balls like I love a button box, but the more there are, the more I'm tempted to play with them. The fruit of this play is mine all mine as I consider it free yarn and usually want to make something for myself from it. Of course you don't need little balls at all-2 regular balls of sock yarn with sufficient colour diversity will be fine as well.
A simple garter stitch scarf can be fun to knit up with this method. This one was done using a cast on of about 20 stitches. With two strands held together, just knit every row changing and mixing at will or when one your little balls runs out. When your scarf is long enough just cast of loosely and darn in the threads. You could even make two or three of these bands to sew together to make a wider scarf with lots of colour interest.
These easy projects make use of the fact that two strands of fingering or sock yarn knits up like a strand of light worsted weight yarn and is therefore a quicker knit. It also gives the opportunity to make a mix of many colours-more than usual even in most patterning sock yarns.
To make a fingerless glove project, assemble all your little balls and find two of each with similar colours in the mix. Use these, one for each, to make the two mitts, so they will be more or less matching. (If matching isn't a priority, ignore this last consideration.)
Start in on the pattern, working two strands together.
*On 3 mm. double point needles, cast on 40 stitches (double strand). If you are a tight knitter, use a larger needle. Join to form a circle.
K1, P1 around for about 40 rounds or 5 and one half inches. This makes the cuff.
At the beginning of a round, save 11 stitches on a stitch holder for the thumb.
Cast on 3 stitches to replace them, using the simple backward loop cast on method, to bridge the gap they left.
Continue knitting on these "hand" stitches until the work reaches midway on your little finger or to desired length. Bind them off.
Go back to the reserved thumb stitches and divide them among three needles, marking the beginning of the round. Knit rounds until the beginning of the thumb nail or to desired length. Bind off.
Make the other mitt in the same way.
A rolled brim hat in stocking stitch can be made following our Stitch Archive pattern from September 2010, called the Cloud Cotton Hat, but utilizing the 2 strand method with fingering or sock weight yarn.
*Garter stitch, ribs or stocking stitch: they all look good using up your little leftover balls.* --Shirlene Greer
Nothing beats a weekend morning, knitting in on lap, coffee in hand. A French Press makes such delicious coffee but if you like to savour your coffee like I do, you’ll likely be drinking your second cup luke warm. This tea cozy knock-off will keep your coffee warm all morning long.
Worsted weight yarn, sample is knit in Vintage
3.5 mm needles
button, approximately 2 cms wide
20.5 sts/10 cm in garter stitch on 3.5 mm This pattern is written for a bodum 30.5 cm around and 18.5 cm tall
Cast on 60 stitches
Work garter stitch (knit every row) for 6 cm
Knit across next row. Do not turn. Using backwards loop method, cast on 10 stitches
Continue in garter stitch on these 70 sts for 6 rows. Next row should begin at the tab
Buttonhole: Knit 2 sts. Cast off 3 stitches. Knit remaining sts.
Next row: Knit to cast off sts. Using backwards loop method, cast on 3 sts. Knit 2 sts.
Continue in garter stitch for another 6 rows. Next row should begin at the tab
Cast off 10 sts. Continue in knit to end of row
Knit for 6.5 cm further.
Begin spout decreases:
The rest of the piece is now worked one half at a time. If using circular needles leave stitches from the half that you are not working on the needles. If using straight needles put half of the stitches (30) on a holder
Row 1: Knit 28 sts, K2tog, turn work
Row 2: SSK (slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, knit those two stitches together), Knit remaining sts
Row 3: Knit 26 sts, K2 tog, turn work
Row 4: SSK, Knit remaining sts.
Cast off until there are 3 sts remaining, knit final 2 sts together, cast off remaining st. Including the cast off row, there are 5 decrease rows.
Work the other side in the same manner, being sure to continue the garter stitch pattern.
Weave in all ends. Sew on button. Enjoy! --Angela Churchill
Inspired by a large collection of colours in Shetland Spindrift yarn that I have in my stash (left from all the tams and other projects) I wanted to come up with a pattern to make some small bowls using that yarn. The bowls turned out well in so far as shape but they are not very firm, this yarn didn’t felt as well as I thought it would, it went through 3 cycles in my washer on hot with even a pair of sneakers once to try to hasten the process. So I offer this pattern for those who want to use it with other yarns and change the needle size (using the recommended needle for the yarn you are using) and come up with some larger but sturdier bowls. I plan to try some next in Fritidsgarn and Galway that I have remnants of. Here are the directions for the bowls that I have made.
I used 3 mm double pointed and circular (16”or 40cm) needles.
(pictured in blue – seabright)
1 ½ inches high and 3 ¼ inches across.
Using a double strand of yarn cast on 56 stitches. Break the second strand and continue in one strand only. Place a marker to mark the beginning of the round and join in the round, careful not to twist! Knit 3 rounds.
Now we are going to do some increases, I used markers to remember where my increases were. Set up round: Knit 7, PM (place marker) and repeat to end of the round. That should be 8 markers including the one to mark the beginning of the round. Increase round *knit to marker M1(make one) slip marker,* repeat from * to * to end of round. Knit 4 rounds without further increases and then repeat the increase round again, you should have 72 sts now and you can remove the markers. Knit 4 more rounds.
Decreasing for the bottom: *Knit 8 sts, pm * repeat around, there will be 9 markers (including the beginning of round marker.)
Decrease round: *Knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog slip marker* repeat from * to end of round. Knit one plain round.
Repeat these 2 rounds until 18 stitches are left. K2tog all round, break yarn, thread through a darning needle and pass through the stitches, draw tight and sew in all ends.
Pictured in purple heather
Approx finished measurements
2 inches high, 3 ¾ inches across
Using a double strand of yarn cast on 70 sts. Break one strand and continue in single yarn. Place a marker for the beginning of the round, join in the round being careful not to twist. Knit for approx 2 ½ inches then place markers for bottom decreases:
Knit 10, pm* repeat to beginning of round marker. Next round *knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slm* repeat to end of round. Knit one round plain. Repeat these 2 rounds until 14 sts remain, break yarn, thread through sts and sew in all ends.
Pictured in Green (Leprechaun)
2 ½ inches high, 5 inches wide
Using a double strand of yarn cast on 96 sts. Break one strand and continue in single yarn. Place a marker for the beginning of the round, join in the round being careful not to twist. Knit for approx 3 ½ inches then place markers for bottom decreases:
Knit 12, pm* repeat to beginning of round marker. Next round *knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slm* repeat to end of round. Knit one round plain. Repeat these 2 rounds until 16 sts remain, break yarn, thread through sts and sew in all ends.
To felt bowls, place in washer set on longest cycle, hot wash cold rinse, add detergent and something to really bash them around, like a pair of jeans. Since this project doesn’t have to “Fit” someone, you can let it go the full wash and rinse cycle without checking, another cycle may be needed depending on the yarn you have used. - Heather Tunnah
Are you tired of knitting the same old style cuff on your socks? The K2, P2 cuff? I personally like to change it up at times and here are 2 of my favorite cuffs.
The Ruffled Cuff
I love this cuff, especially for little girls and it is so simple that no one need to fear trying it. For example, if you usually cast on 40 sts. for a child's sock, you just 'double' the cast on sts. to 80sts. (44sts, CO 88sts., 48sts, CO 96sts. and so on). For a Ladies sock, if you normally cast on 64sts. you would cast on 128sts.
The Roll-Down Cuff
Another favorite, especially for little boys is the Roll-Down Cuff. It too is so very easy to do. Simply cast on your normal amount of sts.
I would also like to suggest that you think on your creative side and mix and match the cuffs and socks. We all have those left-over little balls of sock yarn just hanging around not knowing what to do with them. Those little balls are perfect for your new cuffs. It takes hardly any amount of yarn to do a ruffle or roll-down so dig out those lost and forgotten little balls and put them to good use.
I'd also like to remind you that we at Have a Yarn have moved to a bigger and brighter location, just next door to where we once were. Go to our Home page, enjoy the pictures and if you get the chance to visit Mahone Bay, drop in and introduce yourself. We are always excited to meet new friends and where they call home. With the move we have also added about 25 new sock yarns to our shelves and there's more to come this Fall. I hate to tell you this but Christmas is only 6 months away, it's time to start stockpiling your sock supply for Christmas giving!
So enjoy and have a wonderful Happy Knitting Summer,
Mother’s Day is quickly approaching and what better way to show our mothers we care than a bouquet of flowers...that will last forever!
Materials: Any weight yarn in a colour of your choice (heavier is better); needles to match
For stem, either pipe cleaner OR green or black yarn for i-chord; if making i-chord stem, you will also need a length of thin wire
Cast on 10 stitches, leaving a long tail about 8 to 10 inches
Row 1: Purl
Row 2: Knit into front and back of every stitch
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: Knit
Repeat rows 1 to 4 twice more
Purl 1 more row
I-Chord: (you will need either a cable needle or double point needles)
Cast on 3 stitches
Knit 1 row
*Slide stitches to other end of needle and knit another row. Repeat from * until i-chord is as long as you wish. Allow 1 cm for attaching to flower.
Put it together!
Roll the flower, purl sides in, with the stem (pipe cleaner or i-chord) on the inside.
Use the tail of the cast on edge to secure the stem to the flower. Continue up the side of the fabric to further secure it together.
Use the tail of the cast off edge and attach to the inside if the flower. Sew in ends.
If using i-chord:
Insert wire up through the i-chord
Cast on 26 sts and knit 2 rows.
Next row knit one, make one knit to the end of the row.
Repeat this last row until you have 36 sts.
Knit 4 more rows.
Shape the tail:
Row 1: Knit 3 sts, bring yarn to front between the needles, slip next st to rt hand needle, take yarn to the back of the work, slip st back to left needle and turn your work.
Row 2: Knit 3 (to end of needle)
Row 3: Knit 2 and repeat the wrapping and turning of the next st just as you did above,
Row 4: Knit 2 to end of needle.
Row 5: Cast off 10 sts, knit to the end of the needle.
Row 6 to 10, repeat the last 5 rows.
You will have 16 sts left in the center of the knitting.
Rows 1-4 knit
Row 5: K1 k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1
Rows 6-8 same as row 5
This will leave you with 8 sts.
Knit 2 rows.
Cut yarn and leave about a 12 “ tail, thread it through the stitches as you remove them from the knitting needles and draw the stitches tight. Continue with this yarn to sew up remainder of head and body leaving an opening at the bottom large enough to slip an egg into.
Stuff the head lightly and run a length of yarn around the neck of the chick in a running stitch and cinch it in slightly to shape the neck. The egg gives the body it’s shape.
The eyes are French knots made with yarn and if you want to knit a beak instead of cutting one out of felt, here is how you do it.
Cast on 3 sts with dk or light worsted wt yarn. Knit 2 rows. Next row, k2tog, k1, next row k2tog, cut yarn and thread through remaining st, use the ends of the yarn to sew the beak to the chick’s face.
Happy Easter! - Heather Tunnah
These cute little socks came about as a result of needing a baby gift for a new baby girl. The yarn I had chosen (Fabel by Garnstudio) was such a feminine pattern that the little trims and bobbles just seemed to happen on their own!
Once you have made a pair or 2 of these socks you may feel that you want to do your own thing and place the bobbles and picots in other places. Also you will notice that it would be easy to adapt these embellishments to other sizes of socks.
So go ahead and have fun with them!
BOBBLY BABY SOCKS
1 skein self patterning fingering weight sock yarn
2, 2.25 or 2.5 mm needles
Sizes: 0 – 6 mos, 6 mos – 1 yr
Terms & Abbreviations used:
Knitted cast on: knit one st but pass it back to the left needle and slip it back onto that needle.
Make Picot (MP) using knitted cast on, cast on 3 sts and then cast them off.
Make Bobble (MB) knit into the front, back, front, back & front of next st.
Turn work, slip 1st st, purl 4,
turn, sl1, k4
turn, sl1, p4
turn, cast off 4 sts
slip (sl) slip stitch from left to right needle without knitting or purling it.
Cast on 36 (40) sts.
Leave all sts on one needle and knit one row.
2nd row: k2, *MP, k3 repeat from * to end of row.
3rd row: turn and knit one row.
4th row knit and at the same time arrange sts on 4 needles: 9, 9, 9, and 9 (10, 10, 10, and 10). Join in the round and work in plain stocking st (knit every round) until you have 1 inch from the top trim. (or until you reach a band of colour that you want for your next bobbles).
Bobble Row: k2 and *MB k4. Repeat from * to end of round.
After Bobble Row knit for another ¼ to ½ inch and purl 3 or 4 rounds. (you can arrange this purled section on a stripe and it will really stand out)
Knit 5 rounds and begin heel:
Put the stitches from 2 of your needles onto one and work back & forth on these stitches for the heel flap.
1st Row: sl 1 knit one repeat to end of row
2nd row: sl 1, purl to end of row
Repeat these 2 rows till heel is 1 ¼ inches long.
Turn heel: (starting on a knit row) knit to the middle of the row, k2, ssk, k1, turn.
Next row; sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn
**sl 1 knit to within 1st st from gap, ssk, k1, turn
sl 1, p to within 1st st from gap, p2tog, p1, turn**
repeat from ** to ** until all heels sts are used up.
Again on a knit round, divide the sts left for the heel onto 2 needles. Knit across the second of these and work up the adjoining heel flap picking up the sts along the edge. These are all on one needle now along with ½ of the heel stitches. Knit across the 2 instep needles then down the other side of the heel flap picking up sts as you go and add the other half of the heel sts to this needle. Now, you have all sts on 4 needles again, needle 1 has ½ of the heel, needles 2 and 3 have the instep sts, needle 4 has the other half of the heel. Knit one complete round.
Next round: At the end of needle 1, k2tog. Knit across needles 2 & 3, on the 1st 2 sts of needle 4 ssk, knit to end of needle.
Knit one round plain.
Repeat the above 2 rounds until you are back to 9 (10) sts on ea needle again.
Knit without any changes until the foot measures 2 to 2 ½ inches from the back of the heel.
Toe decreases: Knit to the last 2 stitches on each needle and k2tog for one round. Knit 1 round plain. Continue these 2 rounds until you have 2 sts on ea needle. Break yarn leaving enough to thread through a darning needle and pass it through the stitches, draw tight and sew in end on the wrong side. Use the tail of yarn from cast on edge to close the small gap at the top of the sock.
Happy New Year!
Grafting, or Kitchener Stitch, is a useful stitch to know to make your knitting projects even more professional looking. I discovered when making the Reversible Cables Circle Scarf (Stitch Archives September 2011) that regular grafting doesn’t work for a ribbed pattern. We need to adjust our grafting to properly join knit stitches with knit, and purl stitches with purl. To demonstrate this, I am joining two pieces of knit 2, purl 2 ribbing.
We will use the general steps of grafting outlined in the May 2011 Stitch Archives. To begin, line up the two rows of stitches. The working yarn should be coming from the righthand stitch on the back needle.
On this piece we are starting by joining two knit stitches:
Insert your darning needle purlwise trough the first stitch of the front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving that stitch on the knitting needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on knitting needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on the needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Here is where we sway from the original pattern:
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on back needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch an back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on back needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on back needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle purlwise through first stitch on front needle. Slip stitch off needle and insert darning needle purlwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving this stitch on needle.
Insert darning needle knitwise through first stitch on front needle slipping stitch off needle; insert darning needle knitwise through next stitch on front needle. Pull yarn through, leaving stitch on needle.
Now we are back to two knit stitches followed by two purls. Repeat rows 3 to 10 until the end. When you reach the end you can adjust the tension with your hands and darning needle to match that of the rest of your knitting. Weave in ends.
For further information on grafting in pattern go to page 74 of the Holiday 2010 edition of Interweave Knits.
Some notes on the patterns and knitting:
The finished plain stocking is 5 ½ inches long from cuff to toe, the fairisle stockings are 4 ½ inches long.
I made no attempt to sew in the ends of the different colours of yarn used, simply cut the ends, tied a knot in them and trimmed them about ½ inch long.
Ssk: slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of the 2 slipped sts and knit them off together.
Plain 2 Coloured Stocking:
Cast on 32 sts with the Mohair, work garter stitch for ¼ to ½ inch. You can achieve garter stitch when working in the round by knitting one round, purling 1 round. Alternately you may wish to work the cuff flat and then join into the round when the cuff is done, using the end of the yarn to close the gap that is left.
Change to yarn and work in stocking stitch for approx 2 inches. Join contrasting colour for the heel, the heel is 16 sts wide, knit flat, the other 16 sts are not worked while you knit this.
Right side of heel: slip first stitch, knit to end of row (16 sts)
Wrong side: slip first stitch, purl to end of row
Repeat these 2 rows until heel is 1 inch long.
Turn heel: on right side row; k 10, ssk, turn. Sl 1, p 4, p2tog, turn.
*sl 1 knit to 1 st before the gap where you last turned and ssk turn
sl 1, purl to 1 st before the gap where you last turned and p2tog.
Repeat until all sts are used up. 6 sts remain. Divide these onto 2 needles and using main colour again pick up sts down the heel flap edge, knit across the instep sts and then pick up the sts on the other side of the heel flap and across the other half of the heel.
Rounds now begin in the middle of the heel, at the end of the first needle k2tog. Knit across the 16 sts for instep and at the beginning of the last needle, ssk knit to end of needle. Knit 1 round plain. Repeat these 2 rounds until you have 32 sts again. Knit on these sts until the foot is 2 inches long from the edge of the heel (where the colour changed). Change to contrasting colour and at the end of every other round k2tog until only 2 sts left on each needle. Break yarn, thread through darning needle and pass this through remaining sts and sew securely on the wrong side of sock. Make a crocheted loop to hang your sock.
Following the same method as the plain stocking, cast on with the mohair, but only cast on 24 sts (arrange them 6 to each needle). After knitting the mohair cuff follow the **chart for pattern (bottom of the page). You can choose which colours you wish to use for the different symbols. For example in the green sock I used 365 chartreuse for the main colour, and 147 moss, 183 sand and 230 yellow ochre for the contrasts. After the chart is completed once, put 12 sts all on one needle and knit the heel.
RS sl 1, knit to end
WS sl 1, purl to end.
Do approx 8 rows for heel and then turn:
Sl 1, knit 8, ssk turn
Sl 1 purl 4 p2tog turn
*sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap (where you did your last p2tog & turned), ssk turn
p1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, turn*
repeat from * to * until all the sts are used up.
Divide the remaining 6 sts onto 2 needles. Knit across these sts and pick up & knit the stitches down the side of the heel flap. Knit across the 2 needles each having 6 sts for the instep, pick up the stitches on the other side of the heel and add the other half of the heel stitches (3) remaining to this needle. You should now have 1 needle with approx 8 to 10 sts on it, 2 needles ea with 6 sts and another needle with 8 to 10 sts on it. * Beginning with the first needle (that has 8 to 10 sts) knit to the last 2 sts, k2tog. Knit across the 2 needles with 6 sts ea and at the beginning of the next needle, ssk knit to the end of the needle. Work 1 round with no decreases. The next round and every alternate one work the 2 decreases as set (beginning at *) and repeat these 2 rounds until there are 6 sts on each needle again.
Work the 2nd repeat of the fairisle patterns, changing the colours if you wish. When the pattern is finished, knit one plain round then on every other round k2tog at the end of each needle, until there are only 2 sts on ea needle. Break yarn, thread through a tapestry needle and through the stitches and sew in the wrong side.
Make a short crocheted chain to hang the stocking from. --Heather Tunnah
**CHART FOR FAIRISLE STOCKINGS**
Is there a knitter out there that hasn't knit a dishcloth? Not many, I'm sure. But how many knitters have knit a face cloth or spa cloth? With Christmas right around the corner or when a special little gift is needed, why not have a few of these beautiful little cloths and some nice soap tucked away, ready to drop into a lovely little bag at a moments notice. Of course, not just any dishcloth cotton would do for such a special gift, now would it? I know you would want an especially soft cotton. Here at Have a Yarn we have Berroco's Pure Pima, a 100% cotton in almost any color of the rainbow. So soft and shimmering that you would think it's silk. Perfect!
And now I would like to share with you 3 of my favorite stitch patterns. These patterns are so quick and simple, you could easily knit a couple cloths in an evening and have them on hand for that unexpected emergency. Use these patterns to make a scarf, make a cowl, make place mats or to add interest to the cuffs and waist band of your next sweater. Be creative!
CO an even # of sts.
Row 1: RS, *Slip 1, as to purl, K1, YO, pass slip stitch over the Knit stitch and the YO*. Repeat * to * to end of row.
Row 2: WS, Purl
Repeat these 2 rows to the desired length. Bind off.
The Chinese Wave
CO any uneven # of sts.
Row1: RS, Knit
Row2: WS, * K1, Slip1 purlwise*, repeat ending with K1
Row4: K2, *Slip1, K1* to last 3 sts. Slip1, K2
Repeat these 4 rows to the desired length.
Finish on WS. Bind off.
CO any uneven # of sts. Knit 3 rows.
Row1: RS, Knit
Row2: WS, Knit 3, purl to last 3 sts. K3
Row3: Knit 3, *(P2, K1)*, repeat to last 3 sts. K3
Row4: Knit 3, *(K2, P1)*, repeat to last 3 sts. K3
Repeat these 4 rows to desired length.
Knit 3 rows. Bind off.
Write something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview.