Instructions are written for ages 2-4. Larger sizes (6-8, 10-12) are written in brackets ( ).
Materials: Worsted weight yarn 100 g/200 m Tapestry needle 4 mm needles: 16 inch circular Stitch marker 4.5 mm needles: 16 inch circular and double points
Terms used in this pattern: K - knit, P - purl, k2tog - knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch, st(s) - stitch(es), rnd - round


Cast on: On 4 mm circular needle, cast on 88 (100, 112) stitches and join in the round. Place marker at beginning of round.
Roll Up Brim: *K2P2* repeat from * to * all the way around. Continue ribbing for 3.5 (4, 4) inches.
Body of Hat:Change to 4.5 mm circular needle. Decrease evenly by k2tog 0 (0, 2) times on first round. 88 (100, 110) st remain. K even in stocking stitch until work from top of ribbing measures 3.5 (3.75, 4) inches.
Shape top: Change to 4.5 mm double point needles. 1st rnd: *K2tog, K9 (8, 9) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 80 (90, 100) sts in rnd. 2nd rnd: K even 3rd rnd; *K2tog, K8 (7, 8) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 4th rnd: K even 5th rnd: *K2tog, K7 (6, 7) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. Continue decreasing in this manner (i.e.: there is 1 st less between decreases every alternate rnd) until K2tog, K1 round is complete. 16 (20. 20) st remain. Next rnd: K2tog all round. 8 (10, 10) sts remain. Break yarn. Thread end through remaining sts with tapestry needle. Draw up tightly and sew securely on wrong side. Weave in ends. Fold up brim 1.75 (2, 2 )inches.

Pattern from Have A Yarn Mahone Bay NS B0J 2E0 902-624-0569 www.haveayarn.ca

Instructions are written for ages 2-4.   Larger sizes (6-8, 10-12)  are written in brackets (  ).

Materials:    Worsted weight yarn 80 (100, 120) m        Yarn needle
​        3.5 mm needles                    Stitch holder or piece of waste yarn

Terms used in this pattern:
K - knit, P - purl, k2tog - knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch, st(s) - stitch(es)
M1 - make one stitch:  insert right needle under strand between last st knitted and first st on left needle.  Slip this over left needle by putting the left needle in front of the strand picked up and poking it through.  Now knit into the back of this new stitch.

Make 2 mittens the same:

Cast on:  30 (34, 40) stitches and join in the round.

Wrist:  Work even in rounds of K1, P1 ribbing for 2  (2.5,  3) inches.
​
Make thumb gusset:
1st round:  K1, P1, K3, P1.    K to end of round.
2nd and 3rd rnd:  Repeat 1st rnd.
4th rnd;  K1, P1, (K1, M1) twice, K1, P1.  K to end of round.
** 5th and 6th rnds:  K, purling the sts that were purled the previous rnd.
7th rnd: K1, P1, K1, M1.  K to 1 st before the purled st.   M1, K1, P1.  K to end of rnd.**
Repeat from ** to ** until there are 9 (11,13) sts between the 2 purled sts. 
Repeat 5th and 6th rnds once.
Next rnd:  K2.  Slip next 9 (11, 13) sts onto a thread or stitch holder and leave for thumb.  Cast on 3 st,   K to end of rnd.  (30,34,40) sts remain.

Hand:  K even until work from top of ribbing measures 3.5 (4.25, 5 ) inches.

Shape top:
1st rnd:  *K2tog, K13 (15, 8) sts.  Rep from * to end of rnd.  28 (32, 36) sts in rnd.
2nd rnd:  K even
3rd rnd; *K2tog, K5 (6,7) sts.  Rep from * to end of rnd.  
4th rnd:  K even
5th rnd:  *K2tog, K4 (5, 6) sts.  Rep from * to end of rnd.
Continue decreasing in the manner of 2 - 5th rnd (i.e.:  there is 1 st less between decreases every alternate rnd) until there are 12 sts in rnd.
Next rnd:  (K2tog) 6 times.  Break yarn.   Thread end through remaining sts.   Draw up tightly and sew securely on wrong side.

Make thumb: 
Place 9 (11,13) sts left for thumb on needles and K.   Pick up and knit 3 st at the base of thumb.
K even in rnds for 1.25 (1.5, 2) inches
Next rnd:  *K2tog.  Rep from * to end of rnd.  Break yarn.  Thread end through remaining sts.  Draw up tightly and sew securely on wrong side.

Optional attached cord:  Using 2 strands of yarn, crochet a chain  2.5 times the length of one arm.  Sew a mitt to each end of cord.

Gauge: 7.5 st/inch on 2mm, 2.25mm or 2.5 mm needles
Size: to fit a 10” ankle approximately
Cuff: Cast on 72 stitches (18 sts per needle) and do K2, P2 ribbing for 2 to 3”
Leg: Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue to desired length (usually 7 to 9”).
Heel Flap: Leaving 36 instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (18 & 18) put remaining 36 stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle.
Regular heel stitch:
Row 1: *Slip 1, k1* repeat from * across
Row 2: Slip 1, purl remaining sts
Work rows 1 & 2 for 36 rows.
Turn Heel: Working over heel flap stitches:
Row 1: Knit across 20 sts, ssk**, K1 turn work
Row 2: Slip 1 purlwise, p5, p2tog, p 1, turn
Row 3: slip, 1 K to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn
Row 4:Slip 1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a purl row. (20 sts remaining)
Heel Gusset: Knit first 10 stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 10 stitches with new needle (needle 1 ), pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap,(approx 18) and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work across instep (needles 2 & 3) . Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap(18) work remaining 10 stitches onto the end of this needle (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have about the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit one row.
​*Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 &
3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds in plain knitting. Repeat from *until there are 18 stitches on each needle. 72 stitches total.
Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these 72 stitches until foot is desired length (allow
approx. 2.5" for toe decrease) average man’s foot, from back of heel, 8 to 9"
Toe: Decrease Round:
Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1
Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1
Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end
Knit 3 rounds plain; decrease round.
Knit 2 rounds plain; decrease round.
Knit 2 rounds plain; decrease round.
Knit 1 round plain; decrease round.
Knit 1 round plain; decrease round.
Knit 1 round plain; decrease round.
Decrease round every round until 8 sts remain (2 sts per needle).
Graft toe sts together.
**ssk: Slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of
these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog.

Gauge: 7.5 st/inch on 2mm to 2.5 mm needles
Size: to fit shoe size 3-5 (6.5-7, 9-10, 12-12.5, 2-3)

Cuff: Cast on 40 (44, 48, 52, 56)) stitches and do K2 P2 ribbing for 1 to 1.5"
Leg: Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue to desired length. 
Heel: Leaving 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (10 & 10 or 11 & 11 etc.) put remaining 20 (22, 24, 26,28) stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle.
Regular heel stitch:
Row 1: sl1, *k1, sl1* repeat from * across ending with k1 
Row 2: sl 1, purl across 
Work even in heel stitches for 14, (16, 18, 20, 22) rows
Turn Heel:
Working in short rows over heel flap stitches:
Row1: sl 1,k 12 (14, 15, 16, 18) ssk, turn
Row2: sl 1, p6,(p8, 8, 8, 10) p2 tog, turn
Row 3: sl 1, k 6 (8, 8, 8, 10) ssk, turn
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until all stitches are used and there are 8 (10, 10, 10, 12) stitches on the needle.

Gusset:
Knit first 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches with new needle (needle 1 ), pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work across instep (needles 2 & 3) . Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit one row.
​*Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds in plain knitting. Repeat from *until there are 10 (11, 12, 13,14 ) stitches on each needle. 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches total.
Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these stitches until foot is desired length (allow approx 1 -1.5" for toe decrease)
Toe: Decrease row:
Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1
Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1
Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end
Knit one round plain
Alternate decreasing row with plain row until 8 stitches remain on needles. (2 stitches on each needle)
Graft stitches together to close toe.
****ssk: Slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog

Materials: fingering weight yarn, 2.25 to 2.75 mm needles, note: although these are knit flat, it is easiest to use double pointed needles.
Note: these are knit flat, not in the round, and sewn up

Bootees:
Cast on 36 sts. Work 4 rows in garter st. (knit every row)
5th row (RS):k2 * M1, K5. Repeat from * to last 4 sts. M1, k2, M1 k to end. 44 sts.
6th row (WS): K1, purl to last st, k1
7th row: Knit
Repeat 6th & 7th until leg measures 2.5 ‘’ ending with a purl row.
Next Row: (eyelet holes) *k1, YO, k2tog. Repeat from * to end of row, ending with a knit.
Next row: Purl.
To Make Foot: [K4 k2tog] twice. K15, turn. P 12, turn, k12 turn. 

NOTE: at this part of the pattern you may find it easier to leave the stitches each side of the foot that you aren’t working with on their needles and use another 2 needles to knit the top of the foot 
Working on these center 12 sts work 22 rows in st stitch for flap. Break yarn.

Next Row: K1 K2tog k to center 4 sts of the toe , k2tog twice, k to last 3 sts. K2tog K1.
Next Row: K to center 4 sts, k2tog twice, K to end of row .
Repeat these last 2 rows once then first row once. Cast off. Sew sole and back seam.
Crochet or knit an I cord tie for the bootee.

Basic Sock Pattern for Fingering Weight Yarn

Gauge: 7.5 st/inch on 2mm, 2.25mm or 2.5 mm needles
Size: to fit approx. an 8" ankle
Materials: approx 375 to 420 m of fingering weight yarn
Cuff: Cast on 60 (64) stitches and do K2, P2 ribbing for 1.5 to 2"
Leg: Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue to desired length (usually 5.5 to 6").
Heel: Leaving 30 (32) instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (15 & 15 or 16 & 16) put remaining 30 (32) stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle.
Regular heel stitch:
Row 1: sl1, *k1, sl1* repeat from * across ending with k1
Row 2: sl 1, purl across
Work even in heel stitches until heel flap is about 2.25" long.

​Turn Heel:
Working in short rows over heel flap stitches: 
Row 1: sl 1,k 19 (20), ssk*, turn * see below 
Row 2: sl 1, p10, p2 tog, turn 
Row 3: sl 1, k 10, ssk turn
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until all stitches are used and there are 12 stitches on the needle.
Gusset:
Knit first 6 stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 6 stitches with new needle (needle 1 ), pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work across instep (needles 2 & 3) . Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining 6 stitches (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit one row.
*Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds in plain knitting. Repeat from * until there are 15 (16) stitches on each needle. 60 (64) stitches total.
Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these 60 (64) stitches until foot is desired length (allow approx. 2" for toe decrease)
Toe: Decrease round:
Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1
Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end.
Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1
Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end
Work 3 rounds even
(Work decrease round work 2 rows even ) 2 times
(work decrease round, work 1 round even) 3 times
Work decrease round each round until 8 stitches remain on needles.
Graft stitches together to close toe.
***ssk: Slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog.***

nyone who has visited our shop knows that we are big fans of the linen stitch. Here's an easy cowl pattern that uses 1 skein of beautiful dk weight yarn; and it won't take forever to knit!
Materials:
-1 skein Mineville Wool Project Single DK (100g/200m 100% merino) or 200m of double knitting weight yarn
-5.5mm 24” - 32” circular needle
-stitch marker
Cast on 221 stitches. Place stitch marker and join in the round.
Begin linen stitch: *Knit 1, bring yarn to front between the needles and slip the next stitch on the left hand needle as if to purl, take yarn back between needles (into knit position) and repeat these 2 stitches for the whole body of the cowl.
When only enough yarn is left to cast off, cast off and sew in ends.

​~Heather Tunnah

Like the humble dish cloth, scrubbies are practical, functional, and easy to knit. Here's a quick knit that will fit nicely in a Christmas card or as an addition to a gift this holiday season or any time of the year.
Materials:
1 ball King Cole Big Value Dish Cloth & Craft Cotton, 100g/150m
7mm straight needles
darning needle
Size:
4.5” X 5.5” - 11g
At this size you will get 9 scrubbies per ball.
Loosely cast on 15 stitches.
Knit every row until scrubby measures 5.5" or desired length.
Loosely cast off all stitches (you can go up a needle size for this if needed.)
Weave in ends. (Using a darning needle with a large eye will make this a bit easier.)

Sandnesgarn Perfect is one of those great "work horse" yarns - hard working and wearing yet not at all showy. That makes it the "perfect" yarn for for the style of socks so many working people wear in Lunenburg County, Nova Scotia.
Materials:
1 ball each of off-white (#1002) and red (#4219) in Sandnesgarn Perfect (50g/100m)
2 balls of grey (#1053) in Sandnesgarn Perfect (50g/100m) (if making a size larger than a women's 10, you will need a 3rd ball of grey)
3.25mm double pointed needles
darning needle
Fits approximately an 8.5" ankle
Leg:
With off-white, cast on 48 sts. Work K3, P1 ribbing for 4 rounds. Do not cut off-white yarn.
Maintaining ribbing, work 3 rounds of red. Cut red yarn.
Loosely carrying off-white yarn up, work 7 more rounds of ribbing in off-white. Cut off-white yarn.
Join grey yarn. Work ribbing in grey until leg is desired length. Sample measures 7.5" from cast on edge to start of heel. Cut grey yarn.
Heel Flap: Start off-white here
Leaving 24 instep stitches on two needles (12 on each), put remaining 24 stitches on one needle and work the following rows for the heel flap back and forth over this needle.
RS row: *sl 1, K1* work from * to * across row
WS row: sl 1, P across row
Work these two rows, ending with a WS row, until heel flap is as long as it is wide.
Heel Turn:
Working in short rows over heel flap sts:
Row 1: sl 1, K13, ssk, K1, turn work
Row 2: sl 1, P5, p2tog, P1, turn work
Row 3: sl 1, K to one st before the gap (created by turning on previous row), ssk, K1, turn work
Row 4: sl 1, P to one st before the gap (created by turning on previous row), p2tog, K1, turn work
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until all sts have been used (end with a WS row) and there are 14sts on the needle. Cut off-white yarn.
Gusset:
With grey yarn, K 7 sts of heel flap. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap.
K remaining 7 sts of heel flap with new needle, continuing with same needle, pick up and knit one st in each of the slipped edge sts along the heel flap and 1 additional stitch where the heel flap and instep join. Work K3, P1 ribbing across instep sts (12 sts per needle).
Pick up and knit one st where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped st along the other edge of the heel flap. With same needle, work remaining 7 sts.
Knit one round.
**Decrease Round: Knit to last 3 sts on first needle, k2tog, P1; K3, P1 over instep sts on 2nd and 3rd needles; K1 on 4th needle, ssk, K to end.
K two rounds (Maintaining rib pattern over instep sts)
Decrease Round
K one round (Maintaining rib pattern over instep sts)**
Repeat from ** to ** until 48 sts total remain.
Foot:
Continue on these 48 sts until foot is approx 1.5" shorter than total desired length. Cut grey yarn.
Toe:
Join off-white. Work one round (maintain instep ribbing if desired, otherwise knit all sts.)
Decrease round: Work to last 3 sts on first needle, k2tog, K1; K1, ssk, work to end of 2nd needle; work to last 3 sts on 3rd needle, k2tog, K1; K1, ssk, work to end of round.
Work 2 rounds even.
Work decrease round.
Work 2 rounds even.
Work decrease round.
Work 1 round even.
Work decrease round.
Work 1 round even.
Work decrease round until 12 sts total remain (3 sts per needle)
With darning needle, graft sts together to close toe.
Weave in all ends. Block if desired.
~Angela Churchill

This month is our first "Inspiration of the Month"! These posts are meant to inspire you to get creative and think outside the box with your own projects. We look forward to seeing what you're inspired to make this year!
Charlene received an iPad Pro for Christmas and decided to make a case for it. Inspired by Heather's Felted Tote (see in store for sample and pattern), she sorted through her odds and ends of Galway (great for felting) in her stash and set out planning the stripes. The case is knit from the top down with two strands of Galway. She started with garter stitch to prevent curling and then switched to stocking stitch for the remainder. She grafted the bottom using Kitchener Stitch to make the entire project seamless.
She felted the case, checking often for size.
After felting, she sewed on recycled handles from another purse and used folded over wool strips to wrap around the case to prevent the handles from pulling.

Materials:
-100g/200m worsted weight yarn (sample shown knit in Tradition by Diamond Luxury and used 60g)
-4mm & 4.5mm double pointed needles
-darning needle
-stitch holder (if desired)
-2 stitch markers
Gauge: 5 sts/inch on 4.5mm
Abbreviations:
K: Knit
m1: make one: pick up the horizontal bar of yarn lying between the stitches on your 2 needles, slip it onto the tip of the left needle and knit into the back of it. This increases one stitch and doesn’t leave a hole.
P: Purl
pm: place marker
sl: slip
st(s): stitch(es)
Cast on 40 sts with 4mm needles and divide on 3 or 4 needles. Work Knit 2, Purl 2 ribbling for 2.5 to 3 inches. Change to 4.5mm needles and knit 2 rounds.
Thumb gusset: K2, pm, m1, K1, m1, pm, knit to end of round.
Next round: Knit
Following round: K2 sl marker, m1, k to last st before marker, m1, k to end of round.
Knit 1 round.
Repeat these last 2 rounds until there are 15 sts between markers.
Next round: K2, remove marker, sl 15 gusset sts on a holder or spare piece of yarn, cast on one st, remove marker, knit to end of round.
Continue to knit in rounds on these 40 sts until approx. 4 to 4.5 inches from ribbing.
Change back to 4mm needles and K2, P2 ribbing and work 1/2 inch of ribbing. Cast off loosely.
Thumb: Using 4.5mm needles, pick up the 15 sts from holder and one from the mitten hand. Divide on 3 needles and knit until thumb measures one inch. Work 3 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing and cast off loosely. Darn in all ends.

We were so excited to see how the new Cascade Pacific Color Wave knits up that we whipped up this Simple RIbbed Toque -- and we liked what we saw! This will knit up in a couple of evenings and be ready for the cool weather and gift giving season.
Yarn: 1 ball of Cascade Pacific (or other worsted weight yarn - you will need approx. 200m for both sizes)
Needles: 4.5mm/40cm(16") circular and 4.5mm double pointed needles (entire hat can be knit on double points if desired)
Notions: stitch marker, tapestry needle
Sizes: Medium (women), large (men)
Instructions:
Cast on 100 (108) stitches loosely on circulars (can cast on with a larger needle to ensure a loose edge). Join in round being careful not to twist stitches. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round. Knit in a *K2, P2* ribbing for approximately 9" (22cm), up to 11" for men’s size. This length will allow you to roll the brim up for extra warmth over the ears. If you prefer a longer brim, knit a couple more inches.
Crown Shaping:
(Switch to double pointed needles when there are not enough stitches to fit around circular needle)
First Decrease: *K2, P2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end of the round.
Next 5 rows: *K2, P1* ribbing.
Second Decrease: *K2tog, P1*, repeat from * to * to the end of the round.
Next 3 rows: knit *K1, P1* ribbing.
Third Decrease: *K2tog*, repeat from * to * the end of the row.
Last round: *SSK*, repeat around ending with a K1.
Finishing:
Cut yarn. With a tapestry needle, thread yarn through remaining stitches, draw them together tightly, and weave in the end on the inside of the hat. Remember, when weaving the first tail created from casting on, the brim will be turned up with the “wrong” side showing. Weave in the end on the “right” side so that it will not show.
Abbreviations:
K2tog or P2tog: Knit or purl two stitches together.
SSK: Slip a stitch as if to knit, slip another stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog.

Our part time emplyee, Charlene Scott has been knitting up these shoulder cozies for herself and for others as quick gifts. We first added this pattern to our Stitch Archives in November 2012. Here Charlene shows you some yarn variations and a nice neckline variation. The possibilities are endless!

This adorable little pattern came to us from a customer in New Brunswick, Bendy Tingley, who remembers it as given to her by word of mouth over 40 years ago!
Our samples are knit out of Fleece Artist Father Christmas colourway but let your imagination soar as to what you use. For the double knitting weight yarn we used 3.25mm needles, and for fingering 2.75, size becomes larger or smaller accordingly.
All you need are some Christmasy colours (we used Merino 3/6 from Fleece Artist), 2 knitting needles, darning needle & scissors.
Begin at the cuff edge by casting on 15 sts. Knit 6 rows then switch to stocking stitch ie knit one row, purl 1 row until the leg is desired length (approx. 1.75 inches), ending with a purl row. On the next knit row, knit 10 stitches, turn, purl 5 sts, turn, knit 5 sts. Continue knitting & purling 5 sts until you have done 8 rows - ending with a knit row, at the end of that eighth row, pick up 4 sts along the flap you have just made and then knit to the end of the needle. Next row purl back picking up another 4 sts along the other side of the flap. Work 6 rows stocking stitch and cast off. Sew up the bottom of the boot and the back of the leg and you are done!

Sizes: Medium (Ladies’), Large (Men's)
Note: the finished size is ultimately controlled by the felting process.
Materials: 2 balls of Galway Worsted Weight
8 mm double pointed needles
stitch markers, stitch holder, tapestry needle
**** Please note, mittens are knit using two strands of yarn****
Instructions:
Cuff:
Cast on 24 (28) sts loosely. Arrange sts evenly on 3 or 4 double pointed needles, place marker and join into round. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 12 (14) rounds. K12 (14) sts, M1L, K12 (14) sts, M1L. 26 (30) sts.
Thumb Gusset:
Rnd 1: Knit 12 (14) sts. Place marker, M1L (see glossary), K1, M1R, place marker, knit to end.
Rnd 2: Knit
Rnd 3: Knit to marker, slip marker, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slip marker, knit to end.
Increase 2 sts inside gusset markers in this way every other round until you have a total of 9 (11) gusset sts.
Knit 2 (3) rounds and then proceed with the thumb hole.
Thumb hole and body of mitten:
Place gusset sts on holder (or piece of yarn), remove markers, use the backward loop method (see glossary) to cast on 3 sts over gap left by gusset, and knit to end of round. (28, 32 sts).
Knit 15 (19) rounds even.
Decrease Top of Mitten:
Rnd 1: k5 (6), k2tog,* repeat from * to * to end of round.
Rnd 2: Knit
Decrease 4 sts (working 1 less knit st between decreases) in this manner every other round until there are 16 sts remaining.
Decrease in this manner every round until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and darn securely inside.
Thumb:
Place held gusset sts on double pointed needles, pick up and knit 3 sts over gap and join. NOTE: when it is time to weave in loose ends, you can close the gap that is at the base of the thumb. It will disappear after the mitten is felted.
Knit 7 (8) rounds. (12, 14 sts)
First thumb decrease: K2 tog, K4 (5) , K2tog , K4 (5). (10, 12 sts)
Knit 3 (4) rounds.
Next round: *K2tog *repeat around. Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and fasten inside.
Work next mitten in same fashion as first.
Finishing:
Weave in loose ends, closing gaps at base of thumb. Now it is time to felt!
Felting:
Felt both mittens at the same time in order to get the same size. Size is controlled by the amount of felting, so watch closely, and remove from washer when the size is right. To protect washer from lint, you can place the mitten in an old pillow case and tie shut. Felt in washing machine on strongest cycle using HOT wash with mild detergent. Add another item such as jeans to really bash the mittens around. (Don't use a towel – you'll be picking fluff off your mittens for months). For even felting, remove both mittens each time to check the size and shape. If still too large, wash again – if too small, s t r e t c h it! Rinse with cold water in your washer or by hand. Do not spin dry because it may cause creases. Roll in a towel to remove excess water, shape and air dry.
* * * * *
Glossary:
Backward Loop Cast-On:
Loop working yarn and place on needle backward so that it doesn't unwind. Repeat for desired number of sts.
Increases:
M1L:
With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the back to twist the stitch. Creates a left slanting stitch.
M1R:
With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front to twist the stitch. Creates a right slanting stitch.
~Have a Yarn

After the last Introduction to Sock Knitting class I realized a need for clear written and visual instructions for getting started on double pointed needles. The trickiest part of using DPNs is actually casting on and getting it joined while trying to manage five tiny needles that all seem to want to go in different directions. Before you give up on your DPNs give these instructions a try:
Cast on enough stitches to fill or nearly fill one needle - something close to the number you have to cast on.

​Slip half of the total number of needed stitches onto a new needle (ie. if the total number to be cast on is 32, slip 16). Remember: start slipping from the slip knit end so as to not loosen the stitches at the working end.

You are now ready to continue on with your pattern in this direction. When you start the second round give an extra little tug to the first stitch to narrow the gap that can sometimes form there.
Happy DPN knitting!


~Angela Churchill

There are so many options for beautiful knit hats this time of year. One of the warmest fibres in our store is yak. Yak by Lang Yarns is a 50/50 blend of yak and wool that is sure to keep your ears toasty in this simple cable pattern for the final winter chill.
Materials:
2 50g balls of Yak (130m/ball)
4mm 16" circular needle
4.5mm 16" circular needle
4.5mm DPNs
cable needle
Abbreviations:
C2L: left cross cable - slip 1st 2 stitches onto cable needle and let hang to front of work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the left needle, then holding the cable needle in your left hand, knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

Working in the round and using smaller circular needles, cast on 108 stitches, join.
Round 1: Knit
Round 2: *Knit 1, purl 1* repeat from * to * around. Repeat second round until band measures 6 cms/2.5 inches.
Turn piece inside out, knit 1 round, increasing 2 stitches evenly =110 stitches.
Change to larger circular needles.
Work Pattern:

Rounds 1-3: *knit 4, purl 6* repeat from * to * around
Round 4: *C2L, purl 6* repeat from * to * around.
Rounds 5-6: As for rounds 1-3.
Repeat these 6 rounds until hat measures 12 cm/5 inches from start of cable patterning.
Next round: decrease 1 stitch in the middle of every purl section. Decrease in this manner every 4 rounds twice more, then every 2 rounds twice.
There is now 1 purl stitch remaining between cables. Work 1 round after the last decrease.
Next round: knit 2 together in the middle of each cable. Work 1 round purl 1, knit 3. On the next round knit 2 together around.
Cut yarn, thread tail through stitches, gather and sew in end securely on wrong side of hat.

Looks like we'll be starting the new year with our woolies handy, so here is a fast and simple emergency neck warmer for protecting the sensitive collar area.
Materials:
4 mm 16" circulars, or size needed to achieve gauge. Needle to sew in ends.
100 g. chunky weight yarn or 100g. double knitting (used double)
Gauge:
about 4 stitches per inch in stocking stitch
Size:
length of samples - 7", but this can be shortened or lengthened as desired. Flat width is about 9".
Abbreviations:
Broken Rib:
Round 1: *Knit 1Purl 1*, repeat to end
Round 2: Knit
A repetition of these two rounds creates the pattern.

MP (Make Picot):
Using knitted cast on method, cast on 3 stitches and then cast them off.
MB (Make Bobble):
Knit into the front, back, front, back and front of the next stitch.
Turn work, slip 1st stitch, purl 4,
Turn, slip 1, K4
Turn, slip 1, P4
Turn, cast off 4 stitches
The basic blue is 7" of mistake rib, using 2 strands of double knitting weight 100% cashmere held together to achieve the gauge. I have used HandMaiden's 4 Ply Cashmere, but 2 strands of any double knitting weight yarn should work to give a fairly firm fabric with a chunky weight gauge.

Basic Blue:
Cast 72 stitches on circular needles.
Place marker to show the beginning of the round.
Join into a circle and work Broken Rib for 7", moving the marker along as you go.
Remove marker. Bind off with a much larger needle in order to keep flexibility.
Sew in ends.
For embellishment, the sand and plum variations use parts of our bobbly baby sock pattern, with which you may already be familiar. I have used Berroco Vintage Chunky for the two sample variations (washable and very soft next to the skin).

​Plum Picot Variation:

Cast on 72 stitches, leaving tail long enough to seam together first few rows.
Turn work and knit 1 row. Turn.
2nd row: K2, *MP, K3 repeat from * to last 2 stitches, MP, K1. Turn.
3rd row: Knit. Turn.
4th row: Knit.
Next Row: (Right Side) Join into a circle, place marker to show beginning of round, commence working the Broken Rib pattern
Work Broken Rib pattern for approximately 7 inches, moving marker along as you go .
Cut yarn, leaving some tail. Sew in ends.

Sand Picot and Bobble Variation:
Cast on 72 stitches.
Turn work and knit 1 row. Turn.
2nd row: K2, *MP, K3 repeat from * to last 2 stitches, MP, K1. Turn.
3rd row: Knit. Turn.
4th row: Knit.
Next: (Right Side) Join into a circle, place marker to show beginning of round, commence working with 4 rounds of knitting.
Bobble Round: Knit 2, *(MB, K4)* to end of round
Knit 4 rounds.
Purl 2 rounds.
Broken Rib Pattern for about 4".
Beginning with a purl round, garter stitch for 5 rounds. Cast off and sew in ends

I have made another variation using the basic blue pattern with the insertion of a Bobble Round about an inch from one end of the neck warmer, and I like this one too.
I wish you all a Happy New Year and warm necks for the season!
~Shirlene Greer

Materials:
3 mm needles
Fingering weight yarn in white (or colour of choice) for this project I chose Fame Trend Paljette – a soft fingering weight yarn with sequins in it. A small amount is all that is needed.
A small amount of stuffing (such as a cotton ball) for her head.
Abbreviations:
K1b: knit 1 through back of stitch.
Sl: slip
Yo: yarn over
RS: right side
Ssk: slip as if to knit, slip as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of the 2 slipped sts from left to right and k2tog
K2tog: Knit 2 together
Using knitted cast on, cast on 37 sts. Repeat rows 1 & 2 of pattern below:
Row 1 : K1b *P2, K1b; repeat from *
Row 2: P1, *K1b, K1, P1; repeat from *
Repeat these 2 rows approx 24 times (about 2”)
Next row: K1b, *sl next stitch off needle and allow it to unravel to cast on edge, p1, k1b; repeat from *
NOTE: you may need to “help” the stitches to unravel with the tip of a needle, they can sometimes stick to each other and not want to unravel.
Head: With remaining # of stitches (reduced from the 37) work stocking stitch (ie knit one row, purl one row) for approx 20 rows. Break yarn and leave a long end to thread through a darning needle and pick up the live stitches from your knitting needle, gather them together and sew shut then sew the seam down the back of the head. Lightly stuff the head and wind the yarn around her neck drawing it tight and securing the end of the yarn. Sew down the back of her dress to complete the body.
Wings: Using the same needles, cast on 5 sts.
Row 1: (RS) K2, yo, k1, yo, k2 – 7 st
Row 2: and all even numbered rows : purl
Row 3: K3, yo, k1, yo, k3
Row 5: K4, yo, k1, yo, k4
Continue in this pattern (increasing by 1 st before the YO and K1 then after) until you have a total of 17 sts on your needle.
On the next RS row Ssk, k13, k2tog, continue to purl wrong side rows
Continue to Ssk the first 2 sts and k2tog the last 2 sts on all right side rows until there are only 3 sts remaining. Sl 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over Fasten off.
Make second wing. Sew wings to back of angel’s shoulders.
Halo and arms:
These are made of I Cord. (see March 2006 Stitch Archive)
Halo is approx 1 ½ to 2 inches of 4 st i-cord; form into a circle and lightly tack in place at the back of her head. Arms are also 4 st i-cord long enough to reach from her waist, around her shoulders and back to waist. These are lightly tacked on with yarn and darning needle.
Attach a fine loop of thread or yarn to hang your ornament from.

~Heather Tunnah

There is a common feeling among knitters as November rolls around. This feeling is often accompanied by accelerated heart beat and sweaty palms. This feeling is of course the Christmas panic.
No need to worry! These simple and classic mittens are an excellent gift idea for everyone on your list. Knit in a worsted weight, you can have a pair finished in a few evenings. Have a Yarn has several yarns that can change the look and degree of warmth and softness of your mittens. Vintage (shown) is a tried and true machine washable classic that comes in solids, heathers, and lovely variegated colours. Yak offers an exotic warmth. Ultra Alpaca will make very soft and warm mittens with its 50/50 wool/alpaca blend. Blackstone Tweed has beautiful tweed and marled colours and Galway offers a classic 100% wool look and feel. Take your pick!
Needles: 3.5mm double points
Yarn: 200m of worsted weight yarn
Sizes: Women (Men)
Abbreviations:
k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
M1: make one stitch - insert right needle under strand between last knitted stitch and first st on left needle. Slip this over your left needle by putting the left needle in front of the strand picked up and poking it through. Now knit into the back of this new stitch.
Cast on 44 (48) sts, divide on 4 needles: 8, 12, 12, 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) & work 3 to 4 inches in k2, p2 ribbing

​Materials:
1 ball worsted cotton; Sample is knit in Creme de la Creme
3.75 or 4 mm needles (pair or circular)
Pattern:
Cast on 16 sts leaving tail for sewing up
Row 1: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 2 sts, turn

Row 2 & all even rows: Knit back
Row 3: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 4 sts, turn
Row 5: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 6 sts, turn
Row 7: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 8 sts, turn
Row 9: Slip 1, K3, yo, K to last 10 sts, turn
Row 11: Cast off 5 sts. K to end
Row 12: Knit* - *In the 13th point row 12 will be cast off rather than Knit.
Repeat these 12 rows until 13 points have been formed.
At end of 13th point leave 6-8 inch tail and sew the 1st and 13th point edges together using a whip stitch.
Using tail in the centre of the cloth (or with a new length of yarn if no tail), pick up the garter stitch bumps at the end of each inner row and pull tightly to gather the centre stitches and secure.
**To avoid a seam, Provisional Cast On may be used in the beginning and stitches grafted or bound off using three needle bind off at the end.

Here is a fun and easy pattern to round off the summer and maybe even start you thinking about little stocking stuffers. Many use these for bracelets or key chains, but they make great hair elastics and probably have many other uses too. Plus they are pretty to look at!
Use combinations of the most colourful patterning yarn for best effect, or what you like to go with your outfit.
Simple Circlets:
Yarn: small amounts of patterning 4-ply fine sock yarn
Needles: set of 5- 3 mm. double-points or what will give you desired gauge
yarn-sewing needle with large eye
Gauge: 4 stitches to the inch in stockinette stitch with yarn held double
Pattern:
With yarn held double, cast on 36 stitches onto one of your needles, divide these onto 4.
Join into a circle for knitting in the round, place a marker if desired to mark the starting point and begin knitting.
Knit 8 rounds.
Bind off. Cut yarn, leaving a few inches tail to sew in on stockinette side.

Turn so the purl side is on the outside and you have it!
~Shirlene Greer

This is a quick pattern for a short sock that makes a great house slipper. Nepal, 65% wool and 35% alpaca, makes a great choice to keep winter feet warm. They are knit and sized to be able to fit over another pair of socks for added warmth. Sample was knit to fit a size 8.5 foot.
Flat Dimensions: back of heel to toe = 10 inches; across foot = 4 inches
Gauge 4.25 stitches/inch with 5mm needles

Materials: 2 balls Nepal; 5mm double pointed needles

Cast on 36 stitches. Join in the round and knit 2, purl 2 for 1 inch.

Knit one round

Begin Heel Flap:
With needle 4 (last needle of the round), continue knitting across needle 1
There are now 18 stitches on one needle (heel flap stitches) and 9 each on needles 2 and 3
Continue to work across 18 heel flap stitches as follows:
Row 1: slip 1, purl to end
Row 2: *slip 1, knit 1, repeat from * across row, ending with a knit 1

Continue these two rows until heel flap is as long as it is wide (about 17 rows) ending with row 1 (a purl row)

Turn heel:
Row 1: Slip 1, Knit 10, SSK, knit 1, turn
Row 2: Slip 1, purl 5, P2tog, purl 1, turn
Row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap, SSK, knit 1, turn
Row 4: Slip 1, purl to last stitch before gap, P2tog, purl 1, turn

Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all stitches have been used up. Should end with a purl row.
Gusset:
Knit across half of heel stitches
With a new needle knit remaining heel stitches. Continuing with same needle pick up and knit in each of the slipped edge stitches and one extra where the heel flap and instep join.
Knit across needles 2 and 3
With a new needle pick up and knit one stitch where the instep and heel flap join. Continuing down the heel flap, pick up and knit one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches and then knit the remaining heel stitches.

Knit one round
Decrease Round:
Needle 1: Knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, knit 1
Needles 2 & 3: Knit
Needle 4: Knit 1, SSK, knit to end
Knit 2 rounds
Continue in this manner until there are 36 stitches.
Knit every round until sock is 2.5 inches shorter than length of foot.

Toe Decrease Round:
Needles 1 & 3: Knit to last 3 stitches, K2tog, Knit 1
Needles 2& 4: Knit 1, SSK, Knit to end of needle
Knit 2 rounds
Toe Decrease Round
Knit 1 round
Toe Decrease Round
Knit 1 round
Toe Decrease Round
Knit 1 round
Continue with Toe Decrease Round until 8 stitches remain
Graft stitches together OR cut yarn and thread through remaining stitches.
Weave in ends.


~Angela Churchill

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