Slipper Socks in Bulky Yarn Instructions are written for Small size, larger sizes are in brackets. Small size fits ladies shoe size 6-7, Medium size fits ladies shoe size 8-9, Large fits ladies shoe size 10-11 or men’s 8-10. Requires: 5.5 mm needles, Bulky weight yarn 200 m (ie: Ella Rae Seasons, Estelle Chunky) Tension: 16 stitches/4 inches/10 cm Abbreviations: K = knit, P = purl, st = stitch, M1L = make one left, M1R = make one right, SSK = slip, slip, knit, K2tog = knit 2 stitches together, K3tog = knit 3 stitches together, Sl = slip, PSSO = pass slipped stitch over, P2tog = purl 2 stitches together Sole: Cast on 52 (60, 68) st. Row 1 and all odd numbered rows: K Row 2: K1, M1R, K24 (28, 32), M1R, K2, M1L, K24 (28, 32), M1L, K1. 56 (64, 72) st Row 4: K2, M1R, K24 (28, 32), M1R, K4, M1L, K24 (28, 32), M1L, K2. 60 (68, 76) st Row 6: K3, M1R, K24 (28, 32), M1R, K6, M1L, K24 (28, 32), M1L, K3. 64 (72, 80) st Row 8: K4, M1R, K24 (28, 32), M1R, K8, M1L, K24 (28, 32), M1L, K4. 68 (76, 84) st Row 10. K5, M1R, K24 (28, 32), M1R, K10, M1L, K24 (28, 32), M1L, K5. 72 (80, 88) st Row 12: K6, M1R, K24 (28, 32), M1R, K6, M1R, K6, M1L, K24 (28,32), M1L, K6. 77 (85, 93) st Knit even for 1 (3, 5) rows. Small, Medium, Large Foot: Row 1: K. 77 (85, 93) st Row 2: P Row 3: K27 (31, 35), SSK, SSK, K3tog, K9, Sl1, K2tog, PSSO, K2tog, K2tog, K27 (31, 35). 69 (77, 85) st Row 4: P Row 5: K23 (27, 31), SSK, SSK, K3tog, K9, Sl1, K2tog, PSSO, K2tog, K2tog, K23 (27, 31). 61 (69, 77) st Row 6: P Row 7: K35 (39, 43), SSK, turn, Row 8: Sl1, P9, P2tog, turn. Row 9. Sl1, K9, SSK, turn. Row 10. Sl1, P9, P2tog, turn. Repeat Rows 9 and 10 until 41 (41, 41) st remain (15 st on left, 11 st in centre, 15 st on right) Leg: Row 1: Sl1, K9, SSK, do not turn, K to end. (40 st) Row 2: P24, P2tog, P to end. (39 st) Row 3: K Row 4: P1, P2tog, P2tog, P to last 5 st, P2tog, P2tog, P1. (35 st) Row 5: K Row 6: P Row 7: K Row 8: P Ribbed Cuff: Row 1: (K1, P1) 8 times, K2tog, P1, (K1,P!) 8 times. (34 st) Work 8 more rows of K1, P1 rib, or desired length. Cast off loosely in pattern. Sew back and bottom seam. Weave in ends. Pattern adapted from estherkate’s Charcoal Slippers, Ravelry, with permission from Esther Shortt. Have A Yarn Mahone Bay NS B0J 2E0 902-624-0569 www.haveayarn.ca
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Hat Knitted in Bulky Yarn ![]() Materials: Approx 100m of bulky yarn (usually calls for an 6 mm needle) 6 mm 16” (40cm) circular needles *if you prefer a snug ribbed band you can use 5.5mm* 6 mm double point needles (Or the whole hat can be done on double pointed needles) Tapestry needle and stitch marker Cast on 70 stitches. Join your work in the round placing marker to mark beginning of round and being careful not to twist the stitches. Work in Knit 1 Purl 1 rib for 2 inches. Next round begin to work in all knit stitches. Continue in plain knitting until the hat from cast on edge measures 8.5 inches. Begin decreases: *Knit 5 k2tog * repeat to end of round. Knit one round plain. *Knit 4 k2tog * repeat to end of round Knit one round plain. *Knit 3 K2tog * repeat to end of round. Knit one round plain. *Knit 2 K2tog* repeat to end of round Knit one plain round * Knit 1 K 2tog* repeat to end of round Knit one plain round Next round k2tog all round. Cut yarn, thread through stitches, draw together and sew in ends. ![]() Easy, Cozy Mittens – Youth, Lady's and Men's sizes 100 grams of Bulky weight yarn (such as Estelle Chunky, Fritidsgarn, Seasons) ** Note: This pattern could be knit from other yarn combinations or a single yarn that gives an approximate gauge of 4 sts per inch. Set of 4 DP 5mm needles Sizes: Youth, (Adult, Men’s) NOTE: to increase: using your right needle, lift the strand of yarn lying horizontally between the stitches of the right and left hand needle, slip it onto the left needle and knit in the back of it. Cast on 24, (27, 30) stitches 8,8,8; (9,9,9; 10, 10, 10) Knit cuff 2 ½ inches Increase to 27 (30,33) stitches 9,9,9;(10,10,10; 11.11.11) Knit one round. Begin increase for thumb: On 1st needle: knit 2, inc 1 stitch every 4th round to 12 (13, 14) stitches. When total length measurement is 5 (5 ½,6 ) inches, put 7 stitches from first needle on a holder for thumb as follows: Knit 2, put 7 stitches on holder, cast on 4, knit 3 (4,5) remaining 9 (10, 11 ) stitches on needle again. Next round increase 1 st on ea needle 30 (33, 36 sts total now) and continue on these 30 (33, 36) stitches until mitt measures 8.5 to 9 “.(9.5 to 10; 10-10.5) inches Begin Decrease:*k1, k2tog* repeat from * for 1 round. Knit 2 rounds even, Next round Knit 2 tog all round, Knit 1 round, break yarn, thread yarn through remaining stitches & sew up. Thumb: Pick up 7 sts from holder. Pick up 7 sts from opening edge, Knit 1 round. Decrease 2 sts to 12 sts total, divide ,4 sts ea on 3 needles & knit to 2". Next round k2tog all round. Knit 1 round. Break yarn, thread through sts & sew off. Easy Cozy Mitts for Children ![]() Size: Ages 1-2, (2-4, 4-6, 6-8) Directions written for smallest size, other sizes in brackets( ) 5mm double point needles 60 - 125 m of Bulky yarn. (such as Estelle Chunky, Seasons or Fritidsgarn) Gauge 4sts per inch NOTE: to increase: using your right needle, lift the strand of yarn lying horizontally between the stitches of the right and left hand needle, slip it onto the left needle and knit in the back of it. Cast on 15 (18, 21, 24) stitches, divide on 3 needles,5,5,5, (6,6,6; 7,7,7; 8,8,8) work 1 to 2 inches in stocking stitch.(i.e. knitting every round) (it is a good idea to put a yarn marker on the 1st needle to mark the beginning of the rounds.) Increase for hand: 2 sts per needle to21, (24, 27, 30) st Knit 2 more rounds Begin thumb increases: on 1st needle k1 m1 knit to end of the round. Knit 1 more round. Repeat these 2 rounds until there are 11 (12, 14, 15) sts on the 1st needle. Next round, knit 1, put 6 (6,7,7) sts on holder for thumb, cast on 2 (2,2,2 ) sts and knit the remaining 4(5,6,7) sts. Continue on these 21,(24, 27, 30) sts for a total length of 2, 2 ¼, 2 ½, 3 inches from thumb opening. Begin decreases for top of mitten: *k1 k2tog* repeat for 1 round. Knit 1 (1,2,2) rounds without decreasing, next round,*k2tog* all round. Break yarn, using a darning needle thread through remaining sts and sew in end on inside of mitt. Thumb: Pick up the 6(6,7,7) sts from holder, and 3(3,3,4) more from opening edge, divide these 9(9, 10, 11)sts evenly over 3 needles and and knit for 1 ½ (1 ¾, 1 ¾ , 2 ) inches. Knit 2 tog all round and break yarn, thread through sts and sew in on wrong side, sew in tail from thumb sts picked up, closing any hole which may be there at the same time. Original pattern from Have a Yarn, Mahone Bay NS B0J 2E0 902-624-0569 hello@haveayarn.ca www.haveayarn.ca Air Cowl ![]() Materials: 6 mm needles 2 balls Drops Air (alpaca and wool, aran weight, 150m per 50gr ball) Abbreviations: K: knit P: purl RS: right side Sl: slip st(s): stitch(es) WS: wrong side Cast on 46 sts. Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *K2, P1, repeat from * to end of row. Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, K1, P1, *K2, P1,* repeat from * across row, ending with K1. Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until scarf is desired length. Cast off and if a cowl is desired sew the cast on and cast off edges together.
Simple Worsted Weight Hat for Lady's size or men's This pattern is your classic lady’s or men’s toque but has been perfected to fit snuggly around your ears with comfort and keep you warm. It has been written in a way that is easy to follow, even for a beginner, and knits up fairly quickly.
Materials: 100g worsted weight yarn, approx. 200 m (220 yds.) One 4mm, 16” circular needle and one 4.5 mm 16” circular needle Set of 5, 4.5 mm double point needles Stitch marker, tapestry needle Abbreviations: St st: stocking stitch tbs: knit through back of stitch Ribbing Pattern for turned up brim: Lady’s: *k1tbs, P1, * repeat from * to * all the way around Men’s: *k2, p2*, repeat from * to * all the way around. Lady’s: Using 4mm circular needles CO 112 sts loosely. Place marker at beginning of round. Knit in Lady’s ribbing pattern for 4”. At this point change to 4.5mm needles. Decrease 12 sts evenly spaced through the next round in st st. (100 sts). Continue in st st for approx 5” from last row of ribbing. Decreasing for top You may find it easier to change to 4.5 mm dps at this point. Mark beginning of round with a stitch marker. Rnd 1: *k8, k2tog* repeat from * to * around Rnd 2, 4, 6, 8 knit Rnd 3: * k7, k2tog* repeat from * to * around Rnd 5: *k6, k2tog* repeat from* to * around Rnd 7: * k5 k2tog* repeat from* to * around. Continue decreasing in this fashion until you have completed the k2, k2tog round. You will now continue to decrease but eliminate the knit rounds. Next round: k1, k2tog around. Next round: k2tog all round. With tapestry needle gather all sts and pull together tightly. Pull wool to inside and weave in all ends. Roll brim up 3”. Enjoy ! Men’s With 4mm needles, CO 112 sts loosely. Place marker at beginning of round. Knit in “Men’s ribbing pattern for 4.5”. Change to 4.5mm circulars. Dec 12 st evenly throughtout round in st st (100 sts). Continue in st st for approx 5.5” from last row of ribbing. Decreasing for top: Follow the decreases for Lady’s hat. Materials:
Worsted weight yarn 100 g/200 m 4.5 mm needles Tapestry needle Pattern: Cast on 24 stitches. Row 1: Slip first stitch purl wise, with yarn in back. Knit to end of row. Repeat Row 1 until work measures 32 inches. Cast off. Sew cast on and cast off edges together, in mobius shape (by placing edges together after one twist). Weave in ends. Instructions are written for ages 2-4. Larger sizes (6-8, 10-12) are written in brackets ( ).
Materials: Worsted weight yarn 100 g/200 m Tapestry needle 4 mm needles: 16 inch circular Stitch marker 4.5 mm needles: 16 inch circular and double points Terms used in this pattern: K - knit, P - purl, k2tog - knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch, st(s) - stitch(es), rnd - round Cast on: On 4 mm circular needle, cast on 88 (100, 112) stitches and join in the round. Place marker at beginning of round. Roll Up Brim: *K2P2* repeat from * to * all the way around. Continue ribbing for 3.5 (4, 4) inches. Body of Hat:Change to 4.5 mm circular needle. Decrease evenly by k2tog 0 (0, 2) times on first round. 88 (100, 110) st remain. K even in stocking stitch until work from top of ribbing measures 3.5 (3.75, 4) inches. Shape top: Change to 4.5 mm double point needles. 1st rnd: *K2tog, K9 (8, 9) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 80 (90, 100) sts in rnd. 2nd rnd: K even. 3rd rnd; *K2tog, K8 (7, 8) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 4th rnd: K even. 5th rnd: *K2tog, K7 (6, 7) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. Continue decreasing in this manner (i.e.: there is 1 st less between decreases every alternate rnd) until K2tog, K1 round is complete. 16 (20. 20) st remain. Next rnd: K2tog all round. 8 (10, 10) sts remain. Break yarn. Thread end through remaining sts with tapestry needle. Draw up tightly and sew securely on wrong side. Weave in ends. Fold up brim 1.75 (2, 2 )inches. Pattern from Have A Yarn Mahone Bay NS B0J 2E0 902-624-0569 www.haveayarn.ca ![]() ~ a Knitwits Heaven original design ~ MATERIALS: 63-74m (70-80yds) of Worsted weight cotton Size 4 mm (6US) needles Darning needle Sample Pictured: 9” x 9" with 4 mm (6US) needles & Bernat Handicrafter SIZE: (See above for size example) Size is dependent on yarn used and personal gauge but easily blocked to desired dimensions. See blocking notes below. GAUGE: 21sts = 10cm (4”) in stockinette on 4mm. NOTE: Any size cotton yarn or yarn of other fibre can be used to make cloths of varying sizes, afghan squares or hot pads. Use the recommended needle size or appropriate needles to achieve a nice fabric, depending on individual knitting tension and style. BEGIN PATTERN: Cast on 47 sts. Row 1 and all odd numbered rows unless otherwise stated: knit Row 2: knit Row 4: knit. Row 6: knit. Row 8: k3, p11, k3, p1, k3, p12, k3, p1, k3, p4, k3. Row 10: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 12: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 14: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 16: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 18: k3, p11, k26, p4, k3. Row 20: k3, p10, k2, p24, k2, p3, k3. Row 22: k3, p9, k2, p26, k2, p2, k3. Row 24: k3, p8, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, (k2, p1) 3x, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3. Row 26: k3, p7, (k2, p3) 2x, k2, p2, (k2, p1) 4x, k3, p1, k2, p2, k3. Row 28: k3, p7, k2, p2, (k4, p2, k6, p1), k2, p2, k3. Row 30: k3, p7, k2, p1, (k2, p2, k2, p1) 2x, (k2, p1) 2x, k3, (p1, k2) 2x, p2, k3. Row 32: k3, p6, k3, p1, (k2, p2) 2x, (k4, p2) 2x, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3. Row 34: k3, p5, k2, p1, k2, p27, k2, p2, k3. Row 36: k3, p5, k1, p3, k2, p26, k1, p3, k3 Row 38: k3, p5, k1, p4, k2, p11, k2, p2, k2, p5, k3, p4, k3. Row 40: k3, p5, k1, p5, k2, p10, (k2, p2) 2x, k4, p6, k3. Row 42: k3, p5, k1, p1, k3, p2, k9, p2, k6, p12, k3. Row 44: k3, p6, k5, p1, k2, p9, k2, p2, k2, p12, k3. Row 46: k3, p6, k5, p1, k1, p11, k4, p13, k3. Row 48: k3, p1, k1, p3, k7, p3, k2, p24, k3. Row 50: k3, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p2, k2, p25, k3. Row 52: (k3, p1) 2x, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, (p1, k2) 4x, p2, k2, p3, k1, p3, k4, p2, k3. Row 54: k3, p3, k11, p2, (k2, p1) 2x, (k2, p2) 2x, k3, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 56: k3, p6, k5, p5, k5, p1, k6, (p1, k2) 2x, p1, k4, p2, k3. Row 58: k3, p16, (k2, p1) 2x, k2, p2, (k2, p1) 3x, k2, p4, k3. Row 60: k3, p16, k2, p1, k2, p2, k4, p2, (k2, p1) 2x, k4, p2, k3. Row 62: k3, p41, k3. Rows 63-69: knit. Cast off, break yarn & weave in ends BLOCKING (if desired): If you are giving this as a gift, you may wish to block it for a nice "finished" look. Lay finished cloth on a flat surface, mist it generously on both sides and pull the corners out to be square. Use the back of a spoon or small flat object to gently smooth out the stockinette areas and use a small flat item such as the end of a spoon handle to flatten knit stitches alongside of the raised purl areas. Use a pointed object to gently pull the raised purl stitches into place if needed. Lay over a thin towel or paper towel to dry. Option: lay over a cookie cooling rack for added airflow. If a specific measurement is desired, simply block to that size using a cut out template or a ruler etc. Damp/wet knitting is quickly and easily blocked to size. © Knitwits Heaven 2020
Lisa Vienneau & Allison Barrett www.knitwits-heaven.com We do strive for perfection within our patterns but unfortunately sometimes typos occur. If you come across a mistake, we would love to hear about it so we can make the appropriate corrections. Thanks so much and Happy Knitting! :o) ![]() Instructions are written for ages 2-4. Larger sizes (6-8, 10-12) are written in brackets ( ). Materials: Worsted weight yarn 100 g/200 m Tapestry needle 4 mm needles: 16 inch circular Stitch marker 4.5 mm needles: 16 inch circular and double points Terms used in this pattern: K - knit, P - purl, k2tog - knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch, st(s) - stitch(es), rnd - round Cast on: On 4 mm circular needle, cast on 88 (100, 112) stitches and join in the round. Place marker at beginning of round. Roll Up Brim: *K2P2* repeat from * to * all the way around. Continue ribbing for 3.5 (4, 4) inches. Body of Hat:Change to 4.5 mm circular needle. Decrease evenly by k2tog 0 (0, 2) times on first round. 88 (100, 110) st remain. K even in stocking stitch until work from top of ribbing measures 3.5 (3.75, 4) inches. Shape top: Change to 4.5 mm double point needles. 1st rnd: *K2tog, K9 (8, 9) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 80 (90, 100) sts in rnd. 2nd rnd: K even 3rd rnd; *K2tog, K8 (7, 8) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 4th rnd: K even 5th rnd: *K2tog, K7 (6, 7) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. Continue decreasing in this manner (i.e.: there is 1 st less between decreases every alternate rnd) until K2tog, K1 round is complete. 16 (20. 20) st remain. Next rnd: K2tog all round. 8 (10, 10) sts remain. Break yarn. Thread end through remaining sts with tapestry needle. Draw up tightly and sew securely on wrong side. Weave in ends. Fold up brim 1.75 (2, 2 )inches. Pattern from Have A Yarn Mahone Bay NS B0J 2E0 902-624-0569 www.haveayarn.ca
MATERIALS:
63-74m (70-80yds) of Worsted weight cotton Size 4 mm (6US) needles Darning needle Sample Pictured: 9” x 9" with 4 mm (6US) needles & Bernat Handicrafter SIZE: (See above for size example) Size is dependent on yarn used and personal gauge but easily blocked to desired dimensions. See blocking notes below. GAUGE: 21sts = 10cm (4”) in stockinette on 4mm. NOTE: Any size cotton yarn or yarn of other fibre can be used to make cloths of varying sizes, afghan squares or hot pads. Use the recommended needle size or appropriate needles to achieve a nice fabric, depending on individual knitting tension and style. BEGIN PATTERN: Cast on 47 sts. Row 1 and all odd numbered rows unless otherwise stated: knit Row 2: knit Row 4: knit. Row 6: knit. Row 8: k3, p11, k3, p1, k3, p12, k3, p1, k3, p4, k3. Row 10: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 12: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 14: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 16: k3, p12, k2, p2, k2, p13, k2, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 18: k3, p11, k26, p4, k3. Row 20: k3, p10, k2, p24, k2, p3, k3. Row 22: k3, p9, k2, p26, k2, p2, k3. Row 24: k3, p8, k2, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, (k2, p1) 3x, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3. Row 26: k3, p7, (k2, p3) 2x, k2, p2, (k2, p1) 4x, k3, p1, k2, p2, k3. Row 28: k3, p7, k2, p2, (k4, p2, k6, p1), k2, p2, k3. Row 30: k3, p7, k2, p1, (k2, p2, k2, p1) 2x, (k2, p1) 2x, k3, (p1, k2) 2x, p2, k3. Row 32: k3, p6, k3, p1, (k2, p2) 2x, (k4, p2) 2x, k2, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3. Row 34: k3, p5, k2, p1, k2, p27, k2, p2, k3. Row 36: k3, p5, k1, p3, k2, p26, k1, p3, k3 Row 38: k3, p5, k1, p4, k2, p11, k2, p2, k2, p5, k3, p4, k3. Row 40: k3, p5, k1, p5, k2, p10, (k2, p2) 2x, k4, p6, k3. Row 42: k3, p5, k1, p1, k3, p2, k9, p2, k6, p12, k3. Row 44: k3, p6, k5, p1, k2, p9, k2, p2, k2, p12, k3. Row 46: k3, p6, k5, p1, k1, p11, k4, p13, k3. Row 48: k3, p1, k1, p3, k7, p3, k2, p24, k3. Row 50: k3, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, p2, k2, p25, k3. Row 52: (k3, p1) 2x, k1, p1, k3, p1, k1, (p1, k2) 4x, p2, k2, p3, k1, p3, k4, p2, k3. Row 54: k3, p3, k11, p2, (k2, p1) 2x, (k2, p2) 2x, k3, p2, k2, p4, k3. Row 56: k3, p6, k5, p5, k5, p1, k6, (p1, k2) 2x, p1, k4, p2, k3. Row 58: k3, p16, (k2, p1) 2x, k2, p2, (k2, p1) 3x, k2, p4, k3. Row 60: k3, p16, k2, p1, k2, p2, k4, p2, (k2, p1) 2x, k4, p2, k3. Row 62: k3, p41, k3. Rows 63-69: knit. Cast off, break yarn & weave in ends. Instructions are written for ages 2-4. Larger sizes (6-8, 10-12) are written in brackets ( ).
Materials: Worsted weight yarn 80 (100, 120) m Yarn needle 3.5 mm needles Stitch holder or piece of waste yarn Terms used in this pattern: K - knit, P - purl, k2tog - knit 2 stitches together to decrease one stitch, st(s) - stitch(es) M1 - make one stitch: insert right needle under strand between last st knitted and first st on left needle. Slip this over left needle by putting the left needle in front of the strand picked up and poking it through. Now knit into the back of this new stitch. Make 2 mittens the same: Cast on: 30 (34, 40) stitches and join in the round. Wrist: Work even in rounds of K1, P1 ribbing for 2 (2.5, 3) inches. Make thumb gusset: 1st round: K1, P1, K3, P1. K to end of round. 2nd and 3rd rnd: Repeat 1st rnd. 4th rnd; K1, P1, (K1, M1) twice, K1, P1. K to end of round. ** 5th and 6th rnds: K, purling the sts that were purled the previous rnd. 7th rnd: K1, P1, K1, M1. K to 1 st before the purled st. M1, K1, P1. K to end of rnd.** Repeat from ** to ** until there are 9 (11,13) sts between the 2 purled sts. Repeat 5th and 6th rnds once. Next rnd: K2. Slip next 9 (11, 13) sts onto a thread or stitch holder and leave for thumb. Cast on 3 st, K to end of rnd. (30,34,40) sts remain. Hand: K even until work from top of ribbing measures 3.5 (4.25, 5 ) inches. Shape top: 1st rnd: *K2tog, K13 (15, 8) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 28 (32, 36) sts in rnd. 2nd rnd: K even 3rd rnd; *K2tog, K5 (6,7) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. 4th rnd: K even 5th rnd: *K2tog, K4 (5, 6) sts. Rep from * to end of rnd. Continue decreasing in the manner of 2 - 5th rnd (i.e.: there is 1 st less between decreases every alternate rnd) until there are 12 sts in rnd. Next rnd: (K2tog) 6 times. Break yarn. Thread end through remaining sts. Draw up tightly and sew securely on wrong side. Make thumb: Place 9 (11,13) sts left for thumb on needles and K. Pick up and knit 3 st at the base of thumb. K even in rnds for 1.25 (1.5, 2) inches Next rnd: *K2tog. Rep from * to end of rnd. Break yarn. Thread end through remaining sts. Draw up tightly and sew securely on wrong side. Optional attached cord: Using 2 strands of yarn, crochet a chain 2.5 times the length of one arm. Sew a mitt to each end of cord. Men’s Basic Sock Pattern for any 4 Ply Fingering Sock Yarn Gauge: 7.5 st/inch on 2mm, 2.25mm or 2.5 mm needles
Size: to fit a 10” ankle approximately Cuff: Cast on 72 stitches (18 sts per needle) and do K2, P2 ribbing for 2 to 3” Leg: Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue to desired length (usually 7 to 9”). Heel Flap: Leaving 36 instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (18 & 18) put remaining 36 stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle. Regular heel stitch: Row 1: *Slip 1, k1* repeat from * across Row 2: Slip 1, purl remaining sts Work rows 1 & 2 for 36 rows. Turn Heel: Working over heel flap stitches: Row 1: Knit across 20 sts, ssk**, K1 turn work Row 2: Slip 1 purlwise, p5, p2tog, p 1, turn Row 3: slip, 1 K to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn Row 4:Slip 1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn Repeat Rows 3 & 4 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a purl row. (20 sts remaining) Heel Gusset: Knit first 10 stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 10 stitches with new needle (needle 1 ), pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap,(approx 18) and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work across instep (needles 2 & 3) . Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap(18) work remaining 10 stitches onto the end of this needle (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have about the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit one row. *Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds in plain knitting. Repeat from *until there are 18 stitches on each needle. 72 stitches total. Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these 72 stitches until foot is desired length (allow approx. 2.5" for toe decrease) average man’s foot, from back of heel, 8 to 9" Toe: Decrease Round: Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1 Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end. Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1 Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end Knit 3 rounds plain; decrease round. Knit 2 rounds plain; decrease round. Knit 2 rounds plain; decrease round. Knit 1 round plain; decrease round. Knit 1 round plain; decrease round. Knit 1 round plain; decrease round. Decrease round every round until 8 sts remain (2 sts per needle). Graft toe sts together. **ssk: Slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog. Basic Sock Pattern for Fingering Weight Sock Yarn - Baby’s/Children’s Gauge: 7.5 st/inch on 2mm to 2.5 mm needles
Size: to fit shoe size 3-5 (6.5-7, 9-10, 12-12.5, 2-3) Cuff: Cast on 40 (44, 48, 52, 56)) stitches and do K2 P2 ribbing for 1 to 1.5" Leg: Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue to desired length. Heel: Leaving 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (10 & 10 or 11 & 11 etc.) put remaining 20 (22, 24, 26,28) stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle. Regular heel stitch: Row 1: sl1, *k1, sl1* repeat from * across ending with k1 Row 2: sl 1, purl across Work even in heel stitches for 14, (16, 18, 20, 22) rows Turn Heel: Working in short rows over heel flap stitches: Row1: sl 1,k 12 (14, 15, 16, 18) ssk, turn Row2: sl 1, p6,(p8, 8, 8, 10) p2 tog, turn Row 3: sl 1, k 6 (8, 8, 8, 10) ssk, turn Repeat rows 2 & 3 until all stitches are used and there are 8 (10, 10, 10, 12) stitches on the needle. Gusset: Knit first 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches with new needle (needle 1 ), pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work across instep (needles 2 & 3) . Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit one row. *Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds in plain knitting. Repeat from *until there are 10 (11, 12, 13,14 ) stitches on each needle. 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches total. Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these stitches until foot is desired length (allow approx 1 -1.5" for toe decrease) Toe: Decrease row: Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1 Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end. Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1 Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end Knit one round plain Alternate decreasing row with plain row until 8 stitches remain on needles. (2 stitches on each needle) Graft stitches together to close toe. ****ssk: Slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog Materials: fingering weight yarn, 2.25 to 2.75 mm needles, note: although these are knit flat, it is easiest to use double pointed needles. Note: these are knit flat, not in the round, and sewn up Bootees: Cast on 36 sts. Work 4 rows in garter st. (knit every row) 5th row (RS):k2 * M1, K5. Repeat from * to last 4 sts. M1, k2, M1 k to end. 44 sts. 6th row (WS): K1, purl to last st, k1 7th row: Knit Repeat 6th & 7th until leg measures 2.5 ‘’ ending with a purl row. Next Row: (eyelet holes) *k1, YO, k2tog. Repeat from * to end of row, ending with a knit. Next row: Purl. To Make Foot: [K4 k2tog] twice. K15, turn. P 12, turn, k12 turn. NOTE: at this part of the pattern you may find it easier to leave the stitches each side of the foot that you aren’t working with on their needles and use another 2 needles to knit the top of the foot Working on these center 12 sts work 22 rows in st stitch for flap. Break yarn. With right side facing, work the 13 sts on the needle at the right side of the toe flap. Then pick up and knit 13 sts along side of toe flap. Knit across 12 sts of the toe ,then pick up and knit 13 sts along the other side of toe flap. Now on the 17 sts on the left of the toe flap: K3, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (64 sts) It is easiest if you divide these stitches up on at least 3 needles. What I found worked well was 26,(side of foot) 12 (toe) 26 (other side of foot). Knit 15 rows garter st. Next Row: K1 K2tog k to center 4 sts of the toe , k2tog twice, k to last 3 sts. K2tog K1.
Next Row: K to center 4 sts, k2tog twice, K to end of row . Repeat these last 2 rows once then first row once. Cast off. Sew sole and back seam. Crochet or knit an I cord tie for the bootee. Basic Sock Pattern for Fingering Weight Yarn Gauge: 7.5 st/inch on 2mm, 2.25mm or 2.5 mm needles
Size: to fit approx. an 8" ankle Materials: approx 375 to 420 m of fingering weight yarn Cuff: Cast on 60 (64) stitches and do K2, P2 ribbing for 1.5 to 2" Leg: Switch to stockinette stitch (knit every round) and continue to desired length (usually 5.5 to 6"). Heel: Leaving 30 (32) instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 (15 & 15 or 16 & 16) put remaining 30 (32) stitches on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth over this needle. Regular heel stitch: Row 1: sl1, *k1, sl1* repeat from * across ending with k1 Row 2: sl 1, purl across Work even in heel stitches until heel flap is about 2.25" long. Turn Heel: Working in short rows over heel flap stitches: Row 1: sl 1,k 19 (20), ssk*, turn * see below Row 2: sl 1, p10, p2 tog, turn Row 3: sl 1, k 10, ssk turn Repeat rows 2 & 3 until all stitches are used and there are 12 stitches on the needle. Gusset: Knit first 6 stitches. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap. Knit remaining 6 stitches with new needle (needle 1 ), pick up one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap, and 1 additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work across instep (needles 2 & 3) . Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap, work remaining 6 stitches (needle 4). Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches, these are for the foot. Knit one row. *Next row: Knit to last 2 stitches on needle 1, K2tog. Work instep stitches on needles 2 & 3. On needle 4 ssk, knit to end. Work 2 rounds in plain knitting. Repeat from * until there are 15 (16) stitches on each needle. 60 (64) stitches total. Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these 60 (64) stitches until foot is desired length (allow approx. 2" for toe decrease) Toe: Decrease round: Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1 Needle 2: K1, ssk, knit to end. Needle 3: Work to last 3 stitches K2tog, K1 Needle 4: K1, ssk, knit to end Work 3 rounds even (Work decrease round work 2 rows even ) 2 times (work decrease round, work 1 round even) 3 times Work decrease round each round until 8 stitches remain on needles. Graft stitches together to close toe. ***ssk: Slip stitch as if to knit, slip stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog.*** nyone who has visited our shop knows that we are big fans of the linen stitch. Here's an easy cowl pattern that uses 1 skein of beautiful dk weight yarn; and it won't take forever to knit! Materials: -1 skein Mineville Wool Project Single DK (100g/200m 100% merino) or 200m of double knitting weight yarn -5.5mm 24” - 32” circular needle -stitch marker Cast on 221 stitches. Place stitch marker and join in the round. Begin linen stitch: *Knit 1, bring yarn to front between the needles and slip the next stitch on the left hand needle as if to purl, take yarn back between needles (into knit position) and repeat these 2 stitches for the whole body of the cowl. When only enough yarn is left to cast off, cast off and sew in ends. ~Heather Tunnah
Like the humble dish cloth, scrubbies are practical, functional, and easy to knit. Here's a quick knit that will fit nicely in a Christmas card or as an addition to a gift this holiday season or any time of the year. Materials: 1 ball King Cole Big Value Dish Cloth & Craft Cotton, 100g/150m 7mm straight needles darning needle Size: 4.5” X 5.5” - 11g At this size you will get 9 scrubbies per ball. Loosely cast on 15 stitches. Knit every row until scrubby measures 5.5" or desired length. Loosely cast off all stitches (you can go up a needle size for this if needed.) Weave in ends. (Using a darning needle with a large eye will make this a bit easier.) ~Angela Churchill
Sandnesgarn Perfect is one of those great "work horse" yarns - hard working and wearing yet not at all showy. That makes it the "perfect" yarn for for the style of socks so many working people wear in Lunenburg County, Nova Scotia.
Materials: 1 ball each of off-white (#1002) and red (#4219) in Sandnesgarn Perfect (50g/100m) 2 balls of grey (#1053) in Sandnesgarn Perfect (50g/100m) (if making a size larger than a women's 10, you will need a 3rd ball of grey) 3.25mm double pointed needles darning needle Fits approximately an 8.5" ankle Leg: With off-white, cast on 48 sts. Work K3, P1 ribbing for 4 rounds. Do not cut off-white yarn. Maintaining ribbing, work 3 rounds of red. Cut red yarn. Loosely carrying off-white yarn up, work 7 more rounds of ribbing in off-white. Cut off-white yarn. Join grey yarn. Work ribbing in grey until leg is desired length. Sample measures 7.5" from cast on edge to start of heel. Cut grey yarn. Heel Flap: Start off-white here Leaving 24 instep stitches on two needles (12 on each), put remaining 24 stitches on one needle and work the following rows for the heel flap back and forth over this needle. RS row: *sl 1, K1* work from * to * across row WS row: sl 1, P across row Work these two rows, ending with a WS row, until heel flap is as long as it is wide. Heel Turn: Working in short rows over heel flap sts: Row 1: sl 1, K13, ssk, K1, turn work Row 2: sl 1, P5, p2tog, P1, turn work Row 3: sl 1, K to one st before the gap (created by turning on previous row), ssk, K1, turn work Row 4: sl 1, P to one st before the gap (created by turning on previous row), p2tog, K1, turn work Repeat rows 3 & 4 until all sts have been used (end with a WS row) and there are 14sts on the needle. Cut off-white yarn. Gusset: With grey yarn, K 7 sts of heel flap. Rounds now start in the middle of heel flap. K remaining 7 sts of heel flap with new needle, continuing with same needle, pick up and knit one st in each of the slipped edge sts along the heel flap and 1 additional stitch where the heel flap and instep join. Work K3, P1 ribbing across instep sts (12 sts per needle). Pick up and knit one st where instep and heel flap join and one stitch in each slipped st along the other edge of the heel flap. With same needle, work remaining 7 sts. Knit one round. **Decrease Round: Knit to last 3 sts on first needle, k2tog, P1; K3, P1 over instep sts on 2nd and 3rd needles; K1 on 4th needle, ssk, K to end. K two rounds (Maintaining rib pattern over instep sts) Decrease Round K one round (Maintaining rib pattern over instep sts)** Repeat from ** to ** until 48 sts total remain. Foot: Continue on these 48 sts until foot is approx 1.5" shorter than total desired length. Cut grey yarn. Toe: Join off-white. Work one round (maintain instep ribbing if desired, otherwise knit all sts.) Decrease round: Work to last 3 sts on first needle, k2tog, K1; K1, ssk, work to end of 2nd needle; work to last 3 sts on 3rd needle, k2tog, K1; K1, ssk, work to end of round. Work 2 rounds even. Work decrease round. Work 2 rounds even. Work decrease round. Work 1 round even. Work decrease round. Work 1 round even. Work decrease round until 12 sts total remain (3 sts per needle) With darning needle, graft sts together to close toe. Weave in all ends. Block if desired. ~Angela Churchill This month is our first "Inspiration of the Month"! These posts are meant to inspire you to get creative and think outside the box with your own projects. We look forward to seeing what you're inspired to make this year!
Charlene received an iPad Pro for Christmas and decided to make a case for it. Inspired by Heather's Felted Tote (see in store for sample and pattern), she sorted through her odds and ends of Galway (great for felting) in her stash and set out planning the stripes. The case is knit from the top down with two strands of Galway. She started with garter stitch to prevent curling and then switched to stocking stitch for the remainder. She grafted the bottom using Kitchener Stitch to make the entire project seamless. She felted the case, checking often for size. After felting, she sewed on recycled handles from another purse and used folded over wool strips to wrap around the case to prevent the handles from pulling. Materials:
-100g/200m worsted weight yarn (sample shown knit in Estelle Worsted and used 60g) -4mm & 4.5mm double pointed needles -darning needle -stitch holder (if desired) -2 stitch markers Gauge: 5 sts/inch on 4.5mm Abbreviations: K: Knit m1: make one: pick up the horizontal bar of yarn lying between the stitches on your 2 needles, slip it onto the tip of the left needle and knit into the back of it. This increases one stitch and doesn’t leave a hole. P: Purl pm: place marker sl: slip st(s): stitch(es) Cast on 40 sts with 4mm needles and divide on 3 or 4 needles. Work Knit 2, Purl 2 ribbling for 2.5 to 3 inches. Change to 4.5mm needles and knit 2 rounds. Thumb gusset: K2, pm, m1, K1, m1, pm, knit to end of round. Next round: Knit Following round: K2 sl marker, m1, k to last st before marker, m1, k to end of round. Knit 1 round. Repeat these last 2 rounds until there are 15 sts between markers. Next round: K2, remove marker, sl 15 gusset sts on a holder or spare piece of yarn, cast on one st, remove marker, knit to end of round. Continue to knit in rounds on these 40 sts until approx. 4 to 4.5 inches from ribbing. Change back to 4mm needles and K2, P2 ribbing and work 1/2 inch of ribbing. Cast off loosely. Thumb: Using 4.5mm needles, pick up the 15 sts from holder and one from the mitten hand. Divide on 3 needles and knit until thumb measures one inch. Work 3 rounds in K2, P2 ribbing and cast off loosely. Darn in all ends. We were so excited to see how the new Cascade Pacific Color Wave knits up that we whipped up this Simple RIbbed Toque -- and we liked what we saw! This will knit up in a couple of evenings and be ready for the cool weather and gift giving season.
Yarn: 1 ball of Cascade Pacific (or other worsted weight yarn - you will need approx. 200m for both sizes) Needles: 4.5mm/40cm(16") circular and 4.5mm double pointed needles (entire hat can be knit on double points if desired) Notions: stitch marker, tapestry needle Sizes: Medium (women), large (men) Instructions: Cast on 100 (108) stitches loosely on circulars (can cast on with a larger needle to ensure a loose edge). Join in round being careful not to twist stitches. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round. Knit in a *K2, P2* ribbing for approximately 9" (22cm), up to 11" for men’s size. This length will allow you to roll the brim up for extra warmth over the ears. If you prefer a longer brim, knit a couple more inches. Crown Shaping: (Switch to double pointed needles when there are not enough stitches to fit around circular needle) First Decrease: *K2, P2tog*, repeat from * to * to the end of the round. Next 5 rows: *K2, P1* ribbing. Second Decrease: *K2tog, P1*, repeat from * to * to the end of the round. Next 3 rows: knit *K1, P1* ribbing. Third Decrease: *K2tog*, repeat from * to * the end of the row. Last round: *SSK*, repeat around ending with a K1. Finishing: Cut yarn. With a tapestry needle, thread yarn through remaining stitches, draw them together tightly, and weave in the end on the inside of the hat. Remember, when weaving the first tail created from casting on, the brim will be turned up with the “wrong” side showing. Weave in the end on the “right” side so that it will not show. Abbreviations: K2tog or P2tog: Knit or purl two stitches together. SSK: Slip a stitch as if to knit, slip another stitch as if to knit, insert left needle into the front of these 2 slipped stitches from left to right and K2tog. Our part time emplyee, Charlene Scott has been knitting up these shoulder cozies for herself and for others as quick gifts. We first added this pattern to our Stitch Archives in November 2012. Here Charlene shows you some yarn variations and a nice neckline variation. The possibilities are endless! The following four have a modified neckline: Knit 5 rounds before starting the knit/purl alternating rounds. When worn, you can really see the difference in height at the neckline.
This adorable little pattern came to us from a customer in New Brunswick, Bendy Tingley, who remembers it as given to her by word of mouth over 40 years ago!
Our samples are knit out of Fleece Artist Father Christmas colourway but let your imagination soar as to what you use. For the double knitting weight yarn we used 3.25mm needles, and for fingering 2.75, size becomes larger or smaller accordingly. All you need are some Christmasy colours (we used Merino 3/6 from Fleece Artist), 2 knitting needles, darning needle & scissors. Begin at the cuff edge by casting on 15 sts. Knit 6 rows then switch to stocking stitch ie knit one row, purl 1 row until the leg is desired length (approx. 1.75 inches), ending with a purl row. On the next knit row, knit 10 stitches, turn, purl 5 sts, turn, knit 5 sts. Continue knitting & purling 5 sts until you have done 8 rows - ending with a knit row, at the end of that eighth row, pick up 4 sts along the flap you have just made and then knit to the end of the needle. Next row purl back picking up another 4 sts along the other side of the flap. Work 6 rows stocking stitch and cast off. Sew up the bottom of the boot and the back of the leg and you are done! Sizes: Medium (Ladies’), Large (Men's)
Note: the finished size is ultimately controlled by the felting process. Materials: 2 balls of Galway Worsted Weight 8 mm double pointed needles stitch markers, stitch holder, tapestry needle **** Please note, mittens are knit using two strands of yarn**** Instructions: Cuff: Cast on 24 (28) sts loosely. Arrange sts evenly on 3 or 4 double pointed needles, place marker and join into round. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 12 (14) rounds. K12 (14) sts, M1L, K12 (14) sts, M1L. 26 (30) sts. Thumb Gusset: Rnd 1: Knit 12 (14) sts. Place marker, M1L (see glossary), K1, M1R, place marker, knit to end. Rnd 2: Knit Rnd 3: Knit to marker, slip marker, M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, slip marker, knit to end. Increase 2 sts inside gusset markers in this way every other round until you have a total of 9 (11) gusset sts. Knit 2 (3) rounds and then proceed with the thumb hole. Thumb hole and body of mitten: Place gusset sts on holder (or piece of yarn), remove markers, use the backward loop method (see glossary) to cast on 3 sts over gap left by gusset, and knit to end of round. (28, 32 sts). Knit 15 (19) rounds even. Decrease Top of Mitten: Rnd 1: k5 (6), k2tog,* repeat from * to * to end of round. Rnd 2: Knit Decrease 4 sts (working 1 less knit st between decreases) in this manner every other round until there are 16 sts remaining. Decrease in this manner every round until 8 sts remain. Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and darn securely inside. Thumb: Place held gusset sts on double pointed needles, pick up and knit 3 sts over gap and join. NOTE: when it is time to weave in loose ends, you can close the gap that is at the base of the thumb. It will disappear after the mitten is felted. Knit 7 (8) rounds. (12, 14 sts) First thumb decrease: K2 tog, K4 (5) , K2tog , K4 (5). (10, 12 sts) Knit 3 (4) rounds. Next round: *K2tog *repeat around. Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and fasten inside. Work next mitten in same fashion as first. Finishing: Weave in loose ends, closing gaps at base of thumb. Now it is time to felt! Felting: Felt both mittens at the same time in order to get the same size. Size is controlled by the amount of felting, so watch closely, and remove from washer when the size is right. To protect washer from lint, you can place the mitten in an old pillow case and tie shut. Felt in washing machine on strongest cycle using HOT wash with mild detergent. Add another item such as jeans to really bash the mittens around. (Don't use a towel – you'll be picking fluff off your mittens for months). For even felting, remove both mittens each time to check the size and shape. If still too large, wash again – if too small, s t r e t c h it! Rinse with cold water in your washer or by hand. Do not spin dry because it may cause creases. Roll in a towel to remove excess water, shape and air dry. * * * * * Glossary: Backward Loop Cast-On: Loop working yarn and place on needle backward so that it doesn't unwind. Repeat for desired number of sts. Increases: M1L: With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the back to twist the stitch. Creates a left slanting stitch. M1R: With left needle tip, lift strand between needles from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front to twist the stitch. Creates a right slanting stitch. ~Have a Yarn |
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March 2021
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